Insulated Garage Doors

[Sully]

I'm having a detached garage built and had to pick some options. We discussed garage door and I'm going with an insulated 18x10, but then he asked me what R value I want. I am having the entire building bubble wrapped and I will finish insulation on the inside at a later time myself. I will also be putting in a gas heater. Doing all of that, will it really make a big difference with a higher R value of the overhead garage door? The options are R9 and R17.

 

I tried googling a bit, but all I'm really finding is results for uninsulated vs insulated. I was hoping someone here has some real world experience and can help me make a decision on this. The R17 is just over $700 more than the R9. If I don't really NEED the R17, I wouldn't mind saving that money.

[STEVE-O]

Really comes down to how often will you be working in the garage and what r value will your walls have? No reason for just the garage door to be that much higher if your walls and everything else dont match. Also think about if there is any windows what rating those are.

 

If it was part of the house it would be a much larger difference and concern to me but given what seems to be your setup I would go the cheaper route personally

[iwashmycar]

Might go for it if its going to be constantly heated all winter? If you are just going to warm it up when you go out there I dont think there is a huge benefit on an overhead door. Going to be losing heat like crazy at the edges of it anyway. Also weigh the pros and cons of window panels in the door if you are looking into fancier doors. They look great, the light can be really nice, but man in the winter they just ice over.

 

Id actually want some insulation thrown down at the perimeter foundation and slab moreso.... that shit gets COLD and just doesnt heat up easily

[Sully]

Really comes down to how often will you be working in the garage and what r value will your walls have? No reason for just the garage door to be that much higher if your walls and everything else dont match. Also think about if there is any windows what rating those are.

 

If it was part of the house it would be a much larger difference and concern to me but given what seems to be your setup I would go the cheaper route personally

 

I think he told me the bubble wrap is like a R3. I'm planning on adding R13 or so and then putting something over that, like drywall or plywood. So, it'll be at least an R16 or more. Once I get the gas heater in, I am planning on keeping the temp around 45 when I'm not in it, and then crank it up when I am in there. I will be in there during the evenings almost daily to workout, so I'll want it to warm up quick.

[Sully]

Going to be losing heat like crazy at the edges of it anyway. Also weigh the pros and cons of window panels in the door if you are looking into fancier doors. They look great, the light can be really nice, but man in the winter they just ice over.

 

Id actually want some insulation thrown down at the perimeter foundation and slab moreso.... that shit gets COLD and just doesnt heat up easily

 

Yeah, I wondered about the edges. I don't know if there's something I can do to help that or not. I'm not going with anything super fancy. No windows. Just the raised panel style.

[10phone2]

I added insulated garage door that I think was r17 for an attached single car garage thats insulated. Since the door is metal, went with more insulation since even aluminum will lower temperatures. Really only need a small space heater to comfortably work in there during the winter, but fuck its hot in there during the summer. Having a smaller heating/cooling is needed if your going to be in there consistently if I thought we were staying long term. Even without a dedicated temp system, it's night and day from the years without an insulated door.

 

If it was a detached two car garage, I would go with the best insulated door I could find thats reasonably priced. Buy once and don't have to pay double down the road to replace it.

 

For the trim, I had my wife hold a side of the trim with the lights off in garage while I'm inside for the 1st piece. If I can see light, then move it closer. I can also tell from that what i should shoot for distance wise. Figured the more light, the more cold air that gets in. Take it with a grain of salt

[Trouble Maker]

The ability for the door to seal air out seems way more critical to me than the difference in insulating value. Gaps around it or at the joints from poor design, construction or install concern me more. You can get R10000 and if there are air gaps all of the way around it won't matter.

 

Of course higher value plus good sealing would be the best option.

 

I can't say 'worth it' or not, but if it were me and I was spending every night out there I would just put the higher R value in.

[brent1976]

An r-9 door will probably be an uninsulated door with a 1/4” piece of styrofoam glued to the inside of it. They almost never do this with a high quality door, almost always a cheaper uninsulated. On a door that size I would go with the better door no matter what, insulated or not. If you ever bump it with a car or put it down on something a decent door can take a hit but a cheap door will crumple and need sections or more replaced.

 

Also have the builder get a commercial door not residential. They come with heavier tracks and parts and are over sized 2” so it will have a 1” overlap of the jambs on both sides. 18’2” instead of 18’ like your opening should be. That will keep a lot more air out with jamb seal.