Hanging a Go-Kart on a wall?

[Geeto67]

Figure somebody here has dealt with this before....

 

 

So I was gifted Dad's old Racing go-kart from when he was a kid. Aside from being from the late 1950's and having not run since 1993, my 6'5" fat ass can't fit in the thing anyway and nobody would probably let us run on the track since it is an antique that would kill you if you look at it funny. But....it was a pretty high end kart for 1958 and has all these cool things like triple 1bbl carbs, a belt drive posi, a clutch, and a ton of contingency stickers from races in the 50's.

 

I want to hang it on the wall of my house. I know some of you guys here race modern karts and it's common to store a modern kart vertically on a wall, so maybe that's a start? It weighs probably right around 200 lbs and I want to hang it about 10-15 feet up (the room I want to hang it in has 20 ft ceilings).

 

Am I being crazy or can this work? and if so, how?

[Geeto67]

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1088&pictureid=9907

 

http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1088&pictureid=9908

[Richard Cranium]

Can it hang by the front axle? Could it be as simple as a couple large hooks screwed into wall studs and hang the front axle over the hooks? Maybe some sort of safety chain lag bolted into a stud as well to make sure it can't fall off the wall and kill someone.

[99FLHRCI]

For best viewing, I would recommend a lip under each tire or a low mount around the axle going into a stud. Then I would suggest a chain to the high point of the axle into a stud. This will allow it to tilt out from the wall slightly and make it viewable almost as if you were standing over it. If you don't go into a stud, they make a drywall anchor called toggler. 1/4-20 in 1/2" drywall is rated at 200lb each. One at each of the 4 anchor points should be plenty.

[Geeto67]

the front axle stand offs are part of the frame but there really isn't a lot of bracing there. Also the control rods run really close the front frame rail. The rear has a braced hoop behind the engine that is much stronger and has no issues with wires or control rods so I would probably hang it from there.

[Cordell]

Maybe we he right way to mount this in a permanent situation is to use some 1/4” x 1” plate to bolt into the studs, and with two of these flat against the wall, weld some stand offs to clamp around the frame. That’s how I’d do it. Wouldn’t take much to fabricate with a little welding and paint.

[Tractor]

You hanging from ceiling or actually vertically on a wall? If its going from ceiling and 200lbs, its anchors will be a point load so try to spread that weight out to prevent any sagging that will turn up later. Pics or drawings would help and I'm sure us guys here could find ideas. That is very interesting to me and thats an awesome go-kart.

 

I personally don't like going into studs as you never know if you've hit the center, or if you've hit a bad spot in the stud. I much prefer using "Toggler" bolts from Lowes. They have the engineered rating on them and handle 375lbs each in 1/2" drywall. I use them every week to put up ordering menu's or other digital signage at businesses. Including video walls using rail systems.

[Geeto67]

vertically on a wall.

[Tractor]

I'd use the Togglers as the anchor into drywall, attached to unistrut, then attach with whatever you decide after that to connect to the go kart.

 

Unistrut

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Adamax-Adamax-14-Gauge-Channel-Strut-EG-10-FT/5001905121

 

Togglers

https://www.lowes.com/pd/TOGGLER-10-Pack-Assorted-Length-x-3-16-in-Dia-Toggle-Bolt-Drywall-Anchor-Screws-Included/3183815

 

Strut nut to convert to some mounting frame you decide

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Superstrut-1-2-in-Spring-Strut-Nut/1000109145

 

If you work in electrical or pay attention to how electricians and HVAC guys hang stuff you'll see that stuff used all them time including very interesting ways to hang HVAC units from ceilings walls etc.

[Otis Nice]

If you work in electrical or pay attention to how electricians and HVAC guys hang stuff you'll see that stuff used all them time including very interesting ways to hang HVAC units from ceilings walls etc.

 

I use to hate screwing around with those. None of us liked them.

[cstmg8]

I use to hate screwing around with those. None of us liked them. [emoji38]

Oh man, I love unistrut. I'm planning to make a lift, to raise heavy items to my shop storage, out of it

 

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[Otis Nice]

Oh man, I love unistrut. I'm planning to make a lift, to raise heavy items to my shop storage, out of it

 

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk

 

Unistrut is fine and making something for you lift is fine. Trying to dick around with all those little springs or connectors either with gloves on or taking them off while working in sub zero wind chills or 40 feet in the air on a lift? Blah.

[Tractor]

Yeah those springs ain't fun. That damn connector I linked is only great when your done with it. Does it's job but hard to get into place for sure.

[craig71188]

Aside from being from the late 1950's and having not run since 1993, my 6'5" fat ass can't fit in the thing anyway and nobody would probably let us run on the track since it is an antique that would kill you if you look at it funny. But....it was a pretty high end kart for 1958 and has all these cool things like triple 1bbl carbs, a belt drive posi, a clutch, and a ton of contingency stickers from races in the 50's.

 

Actually, there is quite an active group of folks racing vintage karts - and the values for restored karts are (relatively) big money!

 

Hooks for the frame or "cups" for the wheels would be the way to go. Instead of Unistrut, weld up a frame out of 1/2" or 3/4 square tube that lines up with studs, hang the frame and add kart!

[Alex L.]

Build two brackets something like this with a peg on the end of the leg that the front axle will rest on to prevent it from sliding off of the mount. I'd personally run lag bolts into the studs if you can rather than basic wood screws.

 

[iwashmycar]

Use those Simpson Tech Screws...Like lags but skinnier with more bite. Less chance of splitting a stud.

[Trouble Maker]

Use those Simpson Tech Screws...Like lags but skinnier with more bite. Less chance of splitting a stud.

 

This is almost (exactly) what I was going to say. 3/8" in the skinny part of a 2x4 is asking for trouble. I've used boxes of structural screws around the house and the work way better and easier than old school lags.

 

I've used a bunch of Headlok's around the house. Any reason you're specifically saying the Simpson product? Wondering if I should switch it up for any future projects. Also, which product from Simpson? I'm having a hard time finding anything specific when I search for (Simpson) Tech Screws. Honestly I'll trust whatever you suggest, I believe you know your stuff in this area. I'm just trying to find the specific product you're recommending.

 

We are starting to move forward on a (non-typical) garage, I should talk to you at some point. :nod:

[iwashmycar]

This is almost (exactly) what I was going to say. 3/8" in the skinny part of a 2x4 is asking for trouble. I've used boxes of structural screws around the house and the work way better and easier than old school lags.

 

I've used a bunch of Headlok's around the house. Any reason you're specifically saying the Simpson product? Wondering if I should switch it up for any future projects. Also, which product from Simpson? I'm having a hard time finding anything specific when I search for (Simpson) Tech Screws. Honestly I'll trust whatever you suggest, I believe you know your stuff in this area. I'm just trying to find the specific product you're recommending.

 

We are starting to move forward on a (non-typical) garage, I should talk to you at some point. :nod:

 

No I just meant Headloks in general. I am just used to a framer saying Simpson screws to me on the phone, but I bet they are not even a Simpson product lol.

[Trouble Maker]

No I just meant Headloks in general. I am just used to a framer saying Simpson screws to me on the phone, but I bet they are not even a Simpson product lol.

 

:thumbup:

 

So saying Simpsons screws is kind of like Kleenex or NAWZ.

 

BTW Kerry or anyone, this is the type of product we are talking about. You should be able to find some 'lag alternative' at just about any hardware store. I'm sure there are a dozen brands making them and maybe even more than one option at each big box hardware store, so this is just one example.

 

https://www.fastenmaster.com/products/timberlok-heavy-duty-wood-screw.html

 

https://www.fastenmaster.com/products/headlok-heavy-duty-flathead-fastener.html

 

It seems like all 3 big box hardware stores stock those.

 

And another kind of head, thought I'm not sure when is the 'proper' situation to use which type. Maybe Adam can chime in.

 

https://www.fastenmaster.com/products/timberlok-heavy-duty-wood-screw.html

 

I'm generally in love with these no pre-drill fasteners that also have a better drive system. They are so much easier to use, especially with a cordless impact driver. I might still pre-drill in this case, seems like it would be less likely to split especially if there was already a defect in the board. But that could be the wrong thing to do, pre-drilling and removing material may make the bond weaker. I bet even with a non-ideal bond just one of these would hold that go-kart, and since you'll have to use a few it should definitely be a non-issue.

[Alex L.]

Good call on thinner fasteners, Adam and Jesse.

[Smokey]

Actually, there is quite an active group of folks racing vintage karts - and the values for restored karts are (relatively) big money!

 

As Craig said you can definitely restore and race vintage karts. It’s not cheaper cause it’s older though. Oh and you’re right you won’t fit for shit.

[Geeto67]

As Craig said you can definitely restore and race vintage karts. It’s not cheaper cause it’s older though. Oh and you’re right you won’t fit for shit.

 

I know I won't because I tried and my nuts were sitting in the center of the steering wheel being crushed by my gut. I have no idea how I used to fit in this thing at 14 (which was tight even then).

 

I do have a ton of spares for it though. hardest thing to find so far has been period correct slicks for the magnesium turbine wheels on it. and yes they are staggered size tires.