BikerBoy Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 I am changing oil, and oil filter, drained the oil, everything going will, can't make the oil filter bolt move ... it stripped, now i am stuck, can't finish the oil changing, and can't just forget about changing the filter ever after any advice ?Thanks in advanced Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krzwhtman Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 (edited) oil filter has a canister over it? or a part of the can (filter) that looks like a bolt? Edited June 1, 2009 by krzwhtman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 I am changing oil, and oil filter, drained the oil, everything going will, can't make the oil filter bolt move ... it stripped, now i am stuck, can't finish the oil changing, and can't just forget about changing the filter ever after any advice ?Thanks in advancedyou didnt strip the drain plug, correct..doesnt the oil filter just screw on?..im confused on what actually is stripped out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 on the 250 the filter is a paper type. you take the filter cover off, and shove the paper up in there, then put the lid back on.when you say the bolt is stripped, do you mean the threads are stripped or the head is rounded off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f4isvt Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 if its a bolt head stripped craftsman bolt out and get a new bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerBoy Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 it's somehow a bolt with what looks like container for the filter and it's not moving, and tried to unscrew it and it's not moving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disclaimer Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 You might want to get one of those stripped bolt remover kits (left-hand thread/tap). Take it out and replace it with an A/M part.Pictures would help too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 are you sure you're turning it the correct direction? counterclockwise.you may just need to use a cheater bar on ituse a 6pt socket too. less of a chance of rounding off the head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerBoy Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 i mean : the head is rounded off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerBoy Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 It still has some good edges on it, but it's not moving at all, used WD 40, didn't work yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 use pb blaster..let it sit..make sure you are turning the correct way..put a socket on it with a cheater bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krzwhtman Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 you can grind a cross head on bolt to get it off with screw driver (square shaft ) and wrench . you might have to tap it ( impact action to free it). or if the bolt heads big enough , chain wrench , pipe wrench , vise grips , many other grabbing solutions . or even file bolt square to fit a wrench properly . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerBoy Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 what is a pb blaster is, i don't have a cheater bar i use a normal wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krzwhtman Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 use pb blaster..let it sit..make sure you are turning the correct way..put a socket on it with a cheater barthats a good one two make sure its a SIX point socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 pb blaster is hands down the best penetrating lubricant on the market..like a wd 40 or liquid wrench Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerBoy Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 so as i used the wd 40, is that good enough ? how long should i let it set for ? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 do you have a pipe thats big enough to go over the wrench?PB blaster is a penetrating oil. spray it on, and it helps loosen stuff up. usually PB blaster + blue wrench (be careful, PB blaster is flammable) gets the job done.you are probably going to need a new bolt if you've sufficiently fucked up the head of this one. its the whole center piece of the filter assy. not just a cap screw or something.if you cant get it with that, you can use a bolt out. it will fuck the head up real good, but it will get it out.it should be 14.5 ft/lbs too. dont put it back on too tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 soak it with wd 40 let it sit for 5-10 minutes, put a socket on it with a cheater bar over the ratxchet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krzwhtman Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Blaster chases threads to corrosion even uphill , WD wont . a real good break free penetrant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Likwid Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Like most the people here have suggested, go to Sears and ask for some help. I was there a couple days ago... they have bits you use to drill INTO the bolt head, then reverse it and it comes out.Also, you can try a set of "rounded" nut removers.Last option, get a pair of vice grips and grab on tight as shit.... just remember, the more damage you do the more likely you'll need to do something serious to get it off.Here are some products:http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952160000P?vName=Gifts&keyword=removerhttp://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&sid=I0084400010000100383&aff=Yhttp://www.bt-andf.com/products.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
that dude Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 i hear the bolt out system works great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerBoy Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 saok it with WD 40, gonna keep it setting down all night , and try tomorrow, don't wana ruin the head totaly , gotta go to work tomorrow so my best chance is to wait and see i guess anyway won't let this screw a good sunday night so see ya later guys, and thanks alot for your help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReconRat Posted June 1, 2009 Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Yeah, the old CB550s did that. It's a steel bolt in the aluminum engine, and eventually it will corrode in place, and not want to come out. You will be buying a new bolt. Use whatever method of removal, that doesn't damage more parts. WD-40 won't help, because it's corroded way down inside at the threads in the engine. Impact wrench, special bolt removal tools, I've even used vice grips and a 4 pound sledge hammer to tap bolts loose. Sometimes wrenching a little tighter, looser, back and forth, will break it loose. Sometimes filing down the bolt head to be hex again will work. Sometimes putting multiple layers of aluminum foil over the bolt, and tapping on a metric or SAE 6 point socket will fit tight and work. Sometimes hack-sawing a slot for a big screwdriver (impact wrench) will work. I've considered chiseling/grinding the head off, but never actually had to go that far. Loctite that puppy back on so it won't corrode next time. Blue loctite, not the red stud and bearing mount juice. You'd never get that one off.You don't actually have to replace the filter every time, on most bikes. So it's not too bad if you pass up the filter change this time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BikerBoy Posted June 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2009 Yeah, the old CB550s did that. It's a steel bolt in the aluminum engine, and eventually it will corrode in place, and not want to come out. You will be buying a new bolt. Use whatever method of removal, that doesn't damage more parts. WD-40 won't help, because it's corroded way down inside at the threads in the engine. Impact wrench, special bolt removal tools, I've even used vice grips and a 4 pound sledge hammer to tap bolts loose. Sometimes wrenching a little tighter, looser, back and forth, will break it loose. Sometimes filing down the bolt head to be hex again will work. Sometimes putting multiple layers of aluminum foil over the bolt, and tapping on a metric or SAE 6 point socket will fit tight and work. Sometimes hack-sawing a slot for a big screwdriver (impact wrench) will work. I've considered chiseling/grinding the head off, but never actually had to go that far. Loctite that puppy back on so it won't corrode next time. Blue loctite, not the red stud and bearing mount juice. You'd never get that one off.You don't actually have to replace the filter every time, on most bikes. So it's not too bad if you pass up the filter change this time. Thats really nice idea if it didn't work out tomorrow i might just pass changing the filter thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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