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how to fix this ?


BikerBoy

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I am changing oil, and oil filter, drained the oil, everything going will, can't make the oil filter bolt move ... it stripped, now i am stuck, can't finish the oil changing, and can't just forget about changing the filter ever after :p

any advice ?

Thanks in advanced

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I am changing oil, and oil filter, drained the oil, everything going will, can't make the oil filter bolt move ... it stripped, now i am stuck, can't finish the oil changing, and can't just forget about changing the filter ever after :p

any advice ?

Thanks in advanced

you didnt strip the drain plug, correct..doesnt the oil filter just screw on?..im confused on what actually is stripped out

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on the 250 the filter is a paper type. you take the filter cover off, and shove the paper up in there, then put the lid back on.

Oil_filter_assembly.jpg

when you say the bolt is stripped, do you mean the threads are stripped or the head is rounded off?

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are you sure you're turning it the correct direction? counterclockwise.

you may just need to use a cheater bar on it

use a 6pt socket too. less of a chance of rounding off the head.

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you can grind a cross head on bolt to get it off with screw driver (square shaft ) and wrench . you might have to tap it ( impact action to free it). or if the bolt heads big enough , chain wrench , pipe wrench , vise grips , many other grabbing solutions . or even file bolt square to fit a wrench properly .

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do you have a pipe thats big enough to go over the wrench?

PB blaster is a penetrating oil. spray it on, and it helps loosen stuff up. usually PB blaster + blue wrench (be careful, PB blaster is flammable) gets the job done.

you are probably going to need a new bolt if you've sufficiently fucked up the head of this one. its the whole center piece of the filter assy. not just a cap screw or something.

d65e_1.JPG

if you cant get it with that, you can use a bolt out. it will fuck the head up real good, but it will get it out.

it should be 14.5 ft/lbs too. dont put it back on too tight.

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Like most the people here have suggested, go to Sears and ask for some help. I was there a couple days ago... they have bits you use to drill INTO the bolt head, then reverse it and it comes out.

Also, you can try a set of "rounded" nut removers.

Last option, get a pair of vice grips and grab on tight as shit.... just remember, the more damage you do the more likely you'll need to do something serious to get it off.

Here are some products:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952160000P?vName=Gifts&keyword=remover

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00952060000P?vName=Tools&cName=Hand+Tools%2C+General+Purpose&sName=Bolt-Out%2C+Taps+%26+Dies&sid=I0084400010000100383&aff=Y

http://www.bt-andf.com/products.php

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saok it with WD 40, gonna keep it setting down all night , and try tomorrow, don't wana ruin the head totaly , gotta go to work tomorrow :p so my best chance is to wait and see i guess :D anyway won't let this screw a good sunday night :D so see ya later guys, and thanks alot for your help :D

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Yeah, the old CB550s did that. It's a steel bolt in the aluminum engine, and eventually it will corrode in place, and not want to come out. You will be buying a new bolt. Use whatever method of removal, that doesn't damage more parts. WD-40 won't help, because it's corroded way down inside at the threads in the engine. Impact wrench, special bolt removal tools, I've even used vice grips and a 4 pound sledge hammer to tap bolts loose. Sometimes wrenching a little tighter, looser, back and forth, will break it loose. Sometimes filing down the bolt head to be hex again will work. Sometimes putting multiple layers of aluminum foil over the bolt, and tapping on a metric or SAE 6 point socket will fit tight and work. Sometimes hack-sawing a slot for a big screwdriver (impact wrench) will work. I've considered chiseling/grinding the head off, but never actually had to go that far. Loctite that puppy back on so it won't corrode next time. Blue loctite, not the red stud and bearing mount juice. You'd never get that one off.

You don't actually have to replace the filter every time, on most bikes. So it's not too bad if you pass up the filter change this time.

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Yeah, the old CB550s did that. It's a steel bolt in the aluminum engine, and eventually it will corrode in place, and not want to come out. You will be buying a new bolt. Use whatever method of removal, that doesn't damage more parts. WD-40 won't help, because it's corroded way down inside at the threads in the engine. Impact wrench, special bolt removal tools, I've even used vice grips and a 4 pound sledge hammer to tap bolts loose. Sometimes wrenching a little tighter, looser, back and forth, will break it loose. Sometimes filing down the bolt head to be hex again will work. Sometimes putting multiple layers of aluminum foil over the bolt, and tapping on a metric or SAE 6 point socket will fit tight and work. Sometimes hack-sawing a slot for a big screwdriver (impact wrench) will work. I've considered chiseling/grinding the head off, but never actually had to go that far. Loctite that puppy back on so it won't corrode next time. Blue loctite, not the red stud and bearing mount juice. You'd never get that one off.

You don't actually have to replace the filter every time, on most bikes. So it's not too bad if you pass up the filter change this time.

Thats really nice idea :p if it didn't work out tomorrow i might just pass changing the filter :p

thanks ;)

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