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Dead Starter


EvilTwin

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either do a search on every kawi forum you can find (and put in a WTB ad), look at salvage yards, or see if newer bikes have a compatible starter and buy a used one of those... in either case, i'd start by finding the part number and part number of all compatible starters. it'll make searches a lot easier.

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The starter is re-buildable with OEM parts;

approx $27.23 for the brushes and holder at discount mail order.

SKU: 14079-1082

HOLDER-ASSY,CARBON BRUSH

or just the two carbon brushes for approx $4.66 each;

SKU: 21040-1051

SPRING-BRUSH

or the entire starter for approx $310.77;

SKU: 21163-1258

STARTER-ELECTRIC

the starter is common with at least;

1995 Ninja ZX-6R

1996 Ninja ZX-6R

1997 Ninja ZX-6R

you will have to restore the starter commutator (if it needs it). The contactor part that the brushes ride on when turning. If in doubt, get help. It's pretty easy, but if it's goofed up, the entire starter will have to be replaced.

edit: or the fail-safe method, pull the starter and drop it off at the shop for a re-build. I'm just going to assume that motorcycle mechanics know how to do this. I picked up on it in aviation mechanic classes. And I've done car starters. The only hard part is trying to get it put back together, when those big magnets don't want you to do that.

Edited by ReconRat
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I pulled the starter hooked it up to another battery and it spun, so does that mean my starter solenoid is bad?

if its like a car started it has to kick out and spin i think. but if it spins it prob means its kicking out too

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So it doesn't even click or clunk when trying to start? Just nothing? Yeah, maybe starter solenoid is bad. Or wiring, or wiring connections.

If the "bendix" doesn't move out and engage the gears, it would just spin, without engaging the engine to turn.

I think I'd jump the connection up on the handlebars, at the starter switch wiring, to make sure it isn't that switch. You have to worry about the gear position neutral sensor also, causing it not to turn over. I'm not sure if that one is normally open, or normally closed. But should be able to bypass that one to check it also. And the kickstand switch, same thing there. If you got those things. Most of these guys would probably say go check the kickstand switch first. They go bad often.

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So it doesn't even click or clunk when trying to start? Just nothing? Yeah, maybe starter solenoid is bad. Or wiring, or wiring connections.

If the "bendix" doesn't move out and engage the gears, it would just spin, without engaging the engine to turn.

I think I'd jump the connection up on the handlebars, at the starter switch wiring, to make sure it isn't that switch. You have to worry about the gear position neutral sensor also, causing it not to turn over. I'm not sure if that one is normally open, or normally closed. But should be able to bypass that one to check it also. And the kickstand switch, same thing there. If you got those things. Most of these guys would probably say go check the kickstand switch first. They go bad often.

I was already told to check the kickstand switch on my other forum and I tell you what I told him; I don't have one, the guy who raced my bike before I owned it took all those unnecessary safety features off.

There is a clicking noise that comes from the solenoid when i press the starter button, but nothing else.

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it wouldn't even click if any of the switches cut it off.

ok, best guess is bad solenoid, or bad connections between solenoid and starter, or bad connections from solenoid to battery. I sure hope the battery is good enough to turn the starter. 12.7 volts minimum, most service manuals would say. 13.5 to 14.5 would be better.

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it wouldn't even click if any of the switches cut it off.

ok, best guess is bad solenoid, or bad connections between solenoid and starter, or bad connections from solenoid to battery. I sure hope the battery is good enough to turn the starter. 12.7 volts minimum, most service manuals would say. 13.5 to 14.5 would be better.

Checked the battery today, it's putting out 12.8v. I know the connection is good between the solenoid and battery, I guess I should check the connection between solenoid and starter, but yea; I'm thinking solenoid.

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12.8 is weak. Still works, but getting close to replacement. Unhook your battery and jump another good one in there, I bet it starts ok. Which means it's the battery, or battery charge. No cost to check it, just time.

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12.8 is weak. Still works, but getting close to replacement. Unhook your battery and jump another good one in there, I bet it starts ok. Which means it's the battery, or battery charge. No cost to check it, just time.

That battery is a month an a half old, it is the recommended battery for my model bike and when I took it back to the battery store today they said it was fine and fully charged. I have been jumping it off my car for two weeks now, I originally thought it was a battery problem, but through a thread on another forum we narrowed it down to the starter system.

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hmmm, ok. But I hate it when a new battery doesn't show enough voltage to meet the specs. I have returned some for one dead cell. They still had enough voltage. Dunno. It's one or the other or both. The battery and/or the solenoid circuit.

Your battery is probably one of those sealed units, and can't check the individual cells.

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hmmm, ok. But I hate it when a new battery doesn't show enough voltage to meet the specs. I have returned some for one dead cell. They still had enough voltage. Dunno. It's one or the other or both. The battery and/or the solenoid circuit.

Your battery is probably one of those sealed units, and can't check the individual cells.

The guys on my forum for ninja 600s said that our batteries are supposed to put out at least 12.5v, so I'm pretty sure my battery is good to go.

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So yea, I was measuring voltages at certain points like a guy on my other forum instructed me to so I could check the control circuit and while doing so the bike started, on it's own power... :eek: It scared the shit out of me, and I almost knocked over my beer (that would have been bad). I had been holding the starter button down for like 8-10 seconds reading the voltage on one of the wires, and all of a sudden the starter just kicked on. So I stopped the measuring I was doing, put the choke on and got her to fire up. :confused: Sooooo............... what do I....... um............ Your thoughts?

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Sounds like you found where the resistance is in the circuit. Where you had the probes of the meter, probably was jumping over the bad spot. Or something moved around just enough, to change the wiring, so that it is not acting up right now. The bike may or may not start continuously, it still has something in there to be found and fixed. Check the the wiring, and the wiring diagram, where you were taking the reading. See if anything there makes any sense. when you say control, I take it the voltage readings were on the low voltage side of the start circuit.

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