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Bleeding brake


zpeek

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help my rear brake, been trying to bleed them but wont work. if someone will help me out or come show me how it will be great. call me anytime 513-550*5690 in the hyde park area plz help. i have a one person bleeder that suck ass or dont know how to use it. they say a vacuum bleeder works best.

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Oldest trick and easy to do is get some tubing, about 1/8 inch id clear rubber works, slid it over the release valve. Make sure it's firmly in place. Use a hose clamp if necessary. Run it up the bike at least 6 inches then loop it down into an empty container. Loosen the release valve enough so it is leaking out but requires pressure to force it through and start pumping the break. The expelled break fluid will slowly fill the container and all air will be expelled from the line. Keep adding fluid and forcing it through till what runs through the hose is clear. Then with preasure on the break close the valve. Fill the resivior and replace the lide of the resivior. Check the break for firmness.

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i use a mighty vac, or the gold ole pump the brake a few times, hold, crack the bleeder, close bleeder, release brake slowly out... then repeat till nothing but fluid comes out.

just make sure when you bleed your brakes not to run your reservoir dry or you will get air back in the system.

just keep checking every couple of times you do it, and top off the reservoir

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i recommend the "Mighty Vac" you can pick up for $20 at harbour freight, i just changed my front and rear brake fluid labor day weekend in about 20 minutes(the Rears didnt work at all prior to this fluid switch!!!). $20 tool 20 minute effort (2 person, 1 to pump it out and one to keep the fluid container full / tighten the bleeder valve)fixed my issues 100% I've heard of ppl talking crap about this $20 tool, saying they spent hundreds on a comparable tool, BUT if the $20 tool works just as well why not use the cheaper tool?

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i recommend the "Mighty Vac" you can pick up for $20 at harbour freight, i just changed my front and rear brake fluid labor day weekend in about 20 minutes(the Rears didnt work at all prior to this fluid switch!!!). $20 tool 20 minute effort (2 person, 1 to pump it out and one to keep the fluid container full / tighten the bleeder valve)fixed my issues 100% I've heard of ppl talking crap about this $20 tool, saying they spent hundreds on a comparable tool, BUT if the $20 tool works just as well why not use the cheaper tool?

You sound a bit like Billy Maze reincarnated there. :lol: All we need is a little "but if you order now" at the end. :)

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Speedbleeders will cost you just as much as the vac tool. I couldn't have done my brakes without them. I was able to do them both on my own, as long as you have the hose positioned in the catch can to catch the fluid, you can just keep pumping the brakes and topping off the reservoir. Speedbleeders have a check valve that eliminates air coming back into the system.

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also, on bleeders (stock or otherwise) consider taking the bleeders out and using thread sealer (teflon tape or otherwise) so that you dont draw air in through the threads.

Be carefull doing this! Teflon reacts with many chemicals and may turn to liquid gum or worse in your break line inhibiting proper flow or function.

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1:) did you use a vac pump to clear all old brake fluids out?

(if yes, did you make sure to keep fluids in the brake fluid container as you pumped it out?)

2:) i wouldn't personally use teflon tape on your bleeders, brake fluid makes lots of things break down and get gummy

3:) "Here's how to Order!:D!"

:lol:

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Be carefull doing this! Teflon reacts with many chemicals and may turn to liquid gum or worse in your break line inhibiting proper flow or function.

i wouldnt think it would come into play since the seal is actually created at the tapered end of the bleeder, not on the threads. and the tape would only come into contact with the fluid during bleeding (once the bleeder was tightened the tape is rendered useless as a sealant).

so, now i'm curious to know if brake fluid is something that liquifies teflon........i've got some in the garage, dot 4 and 5.1, i'll let it soak today and post the results.

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also, on bleeders (stock or otherwise) consider taking the bleeders out and using thread sealer (teflon tape or otherwise) so that you don't draw air in through the threads.

I've used liquid or tape sealer in desperation, but the thread of a hydraulic fitting is not meant to be sealed with anything. It should function properly if assembled clean and dry and torqued correctly.

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ok, this morning i found two containers, one of ceramic and one of glass, both had lids with rubber seals and a clamping device to keep out air. i didnt want to use plastic as the plastic may react with the fluid and corrupt the results. i filled each with about an inch of brake fluid, one with 4 and one with 5.1, and place a 3 inch, or so, piece of teflon tape and submerged the tape. i sealed the jars and let them soak. after about 12-13 hours the tape is in the same state (feels the same with the same pull strength (by my hand)). now, i just wanted to test the effect of brake fluid on teflon, so i realize that the added heat and pressure may change the result. but, i cant imagine it would do much in the end. i will leave the tape soaking for a while to see what happens.

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Careful!

Brake fluid does very bad things to paint and plastics.

Another tip brought to you from the "You might wonder how I know this" department.

That is all

+1. got one drop on my rear tire and the next day (after wiping it off) it had eaten some of the finish off my rim. :(

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Oldest trick and easy to do is get some tubing, about 1/8 inch id clear rubber works, slid it over the release valve. Make sure it's firmly in place. Use a hose clamp if necessary. Run it up the bike at least 6 inches then loop it down into an empty container. Loosen the release valve enough so it is leaking out but requires pressure to force it through and start pumping the break. The expelled break fluid will slowly fill the container and all air will be expelled from the line. Keep adding fluid and forcing it through till what runs through the hose is clear. Then with preasure on the break close the valve. Fill the resivior and replace the lide of the resivior. Check the break for firmness.

I use this method also....... It works perfectly! I tried an expensive toy once...... I like this better....

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I would strongly recommend against putting any type of sealant on the threads of the bleeder screw. Teflon tape can clog up your hydraulic system at the worst opportunity.

I see no need for the fancy vacuum pumps as long as you have a piece of clear hose running from the bleeder to a reservoir.

Pump until there are no more bubbles in the clear plastic line.

-Randy - Brake Engineer

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  • 3 weeks later...

so, i was cleaning up in the garage and i came across me little experiment, about which i forgot. it would seem that telfon is impervious to brake fluid, at least dot 4 and 5.1 at room temperature, afer 3 weeks.

just an fyi.....

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