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EK screw style master link


oldschoolsdime92

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I'm not sure I would trust a threaded link over a force-fit one.

I've used RK and DID, but never EK.

Edit:

EK Screw-Type Master Link

You don’t need special tools to install your new EK Chain. This unique, patented link gives a rivet-like fit, using only an 8mm wrench and a pair of pliers. It’s available as an option on many EK Chains.

stl1.jpgstl2.jpgstl3.jpg

I see that they are doing now. It appears the pins are force-fit using the threads.

Edited by RC51 John
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The threading stuff doesn't seat the link plate, it would probably break if it tried. It forms a collar of metal in place on the pin, instead of the typical riveting. So it's actually not a rivet, it is a captive shear pin.

Summary: If done right, the link shown can be as strong as an original application.

Opinion: It's strength is probably somewhere between a riveted link and a clip-type link. Possibly equal to a "lesser strength" riveted link.

This type of fastener application is common in aviation for salvage repair of bad rivets in locations where you can't redo the original riveting. It's typically as strong as the original fastener, but only in shear, not usually in tensile. Whether this is designed to be as strong in shear is unknown, but probably so. As long as the center pin is solid, the same size as the original can be used.

For major structural applications, a Huck Bolt was used to repair structure instead. Huck bolts are similar, a blind bolt/pin that turns a nut down to act as a collar. Sometimes these snap off also, leaving only a threaded captive collar. Huck bolts are very strong.

The objection in aviation, is that the aircraft can drastically gain weight if too many of the repair rivets are used. (Some aviation "rescue" rivets are really big.) I've even used Huck Bolts that had to be an interference fit, and had to use liquid nitrogen to shrink the fastener first.

Various Huck Bolts

huck-cover.gif

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Hey Recon' date=' you got some links showing the pros/cons of rivet links vs clip links? I mean real math scenarios and not the opinion of some asshat magazine writer who's never picked up a wrench before. I figured you, of anyone on this board, would have the math to back up these claims.[/quote']

I believe spreadsheets is JRM's department, let me page him to the chain department *ding*

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Hey Recon' date=' you got some links showing the pros/cons of rivet links vs clip links? I mean real math scenarios and not the opinion of some asshat magazine writer who's never picked up a wrench before. I figured you, of anyone on this board, would have the math to back up these claims.[/quote']

ha, show me the specs/math on the EK link... I'm too lazy to fetch it...

And I'm not sure that any link manufacturers actually publish tensile numbers. I'll work on that.

What I've seen? A high quality chain, is stronger than any master link you can find. Master link will always be the weak point, and I would get a really good one because of that. Not a good place to take short cuts on price or strength.

I'm only comparing the style of manufacture to what I've seen done in aviation. Getting specs for that stuff doesn't count. We would want specs for the 520/525/530 links themselves.

Yes, no experience with that brand of link. But I'd probably try it in place of a clip style link. A good piece to have on the road for emergencies. All master links of any type have the same shear specs per the level of item offered. Some are stronger, some are weaker. But major differences in tensile strength.

It's hard to believe that a master link would need much in tensile strength, but a clip style master link will goof and break, so it is possible. (Yes, I've broken lots of them.) I'm ok with a clip style link for emergencies, but I'd have to remember not to abuse it.

ARGHHH!!!! ..... The EK website, the page for chain specs says "This page under construction"... nice, real nice

Now my interest is in it, are they hiding something? lol

Edited by ReconRat
ARGHHH!!!!
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Huh... I've used them for years and never had one break. I'm curious as to how the clip has anything to do with the tensile strength of the plates and pins.

I doubt that a modern clip style master link would be easy to break. The older Japanese stuff wasn't very good. And most of us just grabbed master links at the hardware, which probably wasn't very good either.

Chains don't fail by breaking pins or plates, which would be shear. They fail by pushing the plates off the pins (or pulling the pins out of the plates), which is tensile. With a clip, only the surface area of the clip that is actually in the groove on the pin, is providing the tensile strength. And the clip is a spring that can bend and flex.

So like any fastener, there are two materials, and one common surface area. The weaker of the two is the actual tensile strength of the combo. In general, all strength calculations are based on a design standard minimum required mating surface. (like a minimum of 4 threads engaged on a bolt or screw.) And a correct assembly and fit of parts.

With a clip, it's not a super tight fit, and it's springy and can move around. Sand and grit can work it's way under the mating surfaces, compromising the strength. I think it's a good idea to keep an eye on clip types. I've caught them half way popped off. Probably my bad habit of using them over and over again, instead of replacing them.

All of the chains I've broken were either small chains on smaller bikes that had the horsepower bumped up, or liter bikes when they first came out, and the chains just weren't strong enough back then. And we didn't have rivet master links either. Modern chains are light years ahead of the old stuff.

I've found specs on strengths of master link types before, but it was very hard to find. And I'm not having any luck at all finding it again.

I do know this. The master link on my DID X ring chain isn't as strong as the chain. There's a better one that uses a special tool to form the head of the pin. Hard to find (and expensive), but apparently used on boats, so are found in boat shops on-line. I didn't bother, and used the next best ordinary rivet tool type.

Edited by ReconRat
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Has anyone used this screw style master link? Whats your experience with it? I really like the idea of it. I have never used Ek products period. I've used D.I.D in the past. Whats your thoughts?

back to reality... the purpose of this type of link is for fast change or repair, like when at the track. Rather than using a standard riveting tool. Or for emergency or repair use on the road. I'm willing to say it's stronger than a clip style master link, without having any numbers, but I won't say it's stronger than any of the good strength rivet formed master links.

The clip style is still easier, since it can be easily removed. The EK would probably have to be ground off just like a rivet style link to remove.

I'll watch for strength specs, because I'm curious.

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So' date=' if I keep doing what I do... cleaning, inspecting, not reusing old clips and whatnot... I'll be fine. Thanks, Tom. BTW, I have a rivet tool and I install rivet master links on customer's bikes. I just wanted to hear your argument. It was a good one. Typically, I hear "OMFG!!!! It'll come off and you'll die!!!" However, I've never seen it happen and I've used them for years. If you install the master link per the instructions and don't over-extend the clip it will sit right where you left it.

Side note: I never thought of keeping a spare master link in my tank bag. Thanks for that idea. I'll be doing that from now on.[/quote']

No kidding, I've used them for years. I've often wondered what would happen using one on high horsepower or high torque. Don't know, but I'd buy the best/strongest clip type I could find. If I were taking the chain on and off a lot, I would definitely use a clip type.

made me think... I use smooth jaw pliers/needle-nose, for stuff like that, so it won't scratch or damage the metal. Sometimes tape them up also. Another hard to find tool.

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...I guess my real issue is the plates take the brunt of the abuse' date=' as well as the pins, themselves. The method of securing the pins is really less critical when you look at how/where the stress is applied to the chain.[/quote']

Except when a sprocket is not aligned, and contacts the chain plates with force. That would be bad. I think O-ring chains avoid a lot of the lateral forces from normal use.

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