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HID's


conn-e-rot

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I'm looking at getting some HID's probably in the range of 5000k or 6000k and have some questions for those of you that have them.

1. 35w or 55w?

2. High beams? I know there is a delay when switching them on and you loose the flash ability but as bright as the lows are do you ever use the highs?

3. What temp are you running? would you recommend that temp or not?

4. Are there any reliability issues I should be aware of? I am buying DDM sets.

5. Have you noticed any excessive heat?

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1. 35

2. I use halogen highs

3. 3500 due to shipping error...not sure if I would recoomend them, just get 5000k

4. Reliability of your wiring harness maybe.

5. They put out less wattage than a regular light so the heat in the housing should be less. The only heat you have to worry about is the heat in the wiring to the bulb. DDM sells the bypass wiring kits which relieve the stock harness...this is recommended.

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I run 35W 6000k DDM HIDs in both headlights with no wiring harness. The harness is not required. I replaced my 10A fuse with a 15A.

No reliability issues whatsoever. Many of us on the kawiforums have done the same with no issues.

There may be heat issues if you decide to run 55W...but I think 35 it plenty. You wont ever need your brights since the DDM 35W 6k are so bright. I run just one headlight now...no longer run two unless im on a dark country rode. Ask anybody thats ridden with me...theyll vouch that im bright as fuck with just one headlight.

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i just put a ddm hid kit on my vrod. what a pita, no instructions with it. but after another vrodder did alot of forum searching and i made a phone call to someone else, we figured it out and got it installed 4 hours later. but it was worth every penny spent on it.

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I have 2 55W 6000K's in mine, using the DDM wiring harness. I'm still tracking down phantom power issues, sometimes one side lights up, sometimes I don't get anything at all. The harness you get is designed for a car, as such it needs extensive modification to fit. I'm inclined to believe my power issues are related to the harness instead of the lights themselves. I have them wired to the high-beam power leads, so I can shut them both off if necessary.

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i just put a ddm hid kit on my vrod. what a pita, no instructions with it. but after another vrodder did alot of forum searching and i made a phone call to someone else, we figured it out and got it installed 4 hours later. but it was worth every penny spent on it.

Four hours?! Jeebus! :eek:

I don't understand how some of you need extensive modifications? Are you talking about the accessory harness Cheech? I had a DDM 55w 5000k HID setup done on a CBR in 30 min tops including pulling fairings.

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Four hours?! Jeebus! :eek:

I don't understand how some of you need extensive modifications? Are you talking about the accessory harness Cheech? I had a DDM 55w 5000k HID setup done on a CBR in 30 min tops including pulling fairings.

Yes. I didn't want to take the chance using my existing wiring harness, so I bought the DDM relayed wiring which comes in lengths designed for easy drop in installation on a car.

I read you only need the harness if running 55w

Also correct. I wouldn't have had any fears running the 35W light on a factory harness.

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Less Lumens though. 5000k, or more specifically, 4300k, is the highest actual light output.

Yes but 3000k is known to also be easier on the eyes. And 3000k doesn't lose nearly as many lumens as when you exceed 6000k.

I run 5000k DDM in mine and I think they provide just the right light output in a clear/very slightly blued hue. It's actually almost a pure white light once it's fully warmed.

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I have a 3000K High and a 6000K Low. The lower the color temp, the better the piercing power without dispersion. Run a switch or a relay so you get full cca out of your battery.

my headlights don't turn on until the bike starts so I don't think that will be an issue

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have the ddm 55w 5000k kit in mine. I don't worry about high or low beam anymore. I can't see any sort of color. Just a perfect white. The upgrade from 1992 stock headlights was incredible.

I am very pleased with the ddm kit.

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  • 1 year later...

Hey Tim, wuts up? we've rode b4 with Boyle and some others from town...I installed 35watt 8000K on my katana and they are bright as hell... I bought a set from "SportTivia" and they suck...Ive heard DDM's are good and im about to buy a set to replace the ones i cureently have....I currently have 8000K cuz i like the blue look but i think i might step down to the 6000k for more light output cuz as you know around here the deer are fuckin everywhere when u ride at night...as for the 55w, i have had them in my car and took them out due to many power issues but if u can find a reliable set, the 55w are just beyond bright lol....good luck....hit me up if you or anybody from town put a ride together..

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ddm is actually just an average quality. sure they're ok if you're on a budget. I installed DDM in my truck and they failed within a year. if you want the top of the line kit check out http://www.theretrofitsource.com/. they installed a full on projector kit in my R6 and while it's not what you guys are after, the ballast and bulb quality is second to none.

final appearance:

248236_10150207538896881_167001111880_7422295_1885617_n.jpg

the owner is also an OSU alum, can't beat that!

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i just put a ddm hid kit on my vrod. what a pita, no instructions with it. but after another vrodder did alot of forum searching and i made a phone call to someone else, we figured it out and got it installed 4 hours later. but it was worth every penny spent on it.
I blame the Vrod...took me about 15 minutes. :D

Ummmm, it took less than 1/2 hour to install my DDM kit on my V. Really, what was the issue? Super easy.

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Hey Tim i just swapped my 35watt slim ballast for a regular 55Watt ballast along with a 8000K bulb....OMFG it is insanely bright with a perfect white light since the 55watt ballast fades out some of the blue from the 8000K....for the lil cost for new ballasts, id recommend upgrading to the 55watt...

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Guys just watch out where you mount that little power box not to close to the dash it will mess with the gauges and the speedo. I could also run extras on my bike like gps mp3 radar and wont have a problem with my battery. on newer bike electrical dashes

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