Meanie Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Anyone have an automotive tester? The wifes car has the check engine light on and isn't running very well. (in very well i mean it won't go over about 10 MPH with it floored) I'm suspecting fuel filter, but its attached to the fuel pump and in the gas tank. I'd rather not have it towed, in fact if no one has one I'll try to drive to a nearby garage and see if they'll check the codes for me. Just trying to avoid driving the car, as it doesn't go over 5-10MPH.It's a 2006 Nissan Altima S.Thanks Fellers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 AutoZone and Advanced will both let you use their OBDII scanners free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meanie Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 AutoZone and Advanced will both let you use their OBDII scanners free.But can you take them home....I have an AA about 8 mins from my house but with the car not running of 10MPH I really hate trying to get out on the road with it. It is my backup plan tho, I have some back roads I can take. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
conn-e-rot Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 gotta love limp mode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Casper Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 I think so actually. You have to put a deposit down, but you get it back when you return it. Part of their tool borrowing program. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meanie Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 gotta love limp modeNo kidding. I think I could drag it fast than it goes under its own power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fizzer Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 I think so actually. You have to put a deposit down, but you get it back when you return it. Part of their tool borrowing program.+1, call first to check though as some don't do this, and they can tell you beforehand what the deposit will be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Anyone have an automotive tester? The wifes car has the check engine light on and isn't running very well. (in very well i mean it won't go over about 10 MPH with it floored) I'm suspecting fuel filter, but its attached to the fuel pump and in the gas tank. I'd rather not have it towed, in fact if no one has one I'll try to drive to a nearby garage and see if they'll check the codes for me. Just trying to avoid driving the car, as it doesn't go over 5-10MPH.It's a 2006 Nissan Altima S.Thanks Fellers!Hit up chevysoldier, see if he has his at home, since he's not far away. If you need help knowing what's going on for sure once you get the codes, let me know what they are. I have access to some pretty good sources for repair info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meanie Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Hit up chevysoldier, see if he has his at home, since he's not far away. If you need help knowing what's going on for sure once you get the codes, let me know what they are. I have access to some pretty good sources for repair info.Awesome thanks Judd. I sent a text to Josh, I hope he has one and is available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meanie Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Got one to borrow thanks guys. I may need to contact you Porter about what the codes are. We shall see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) Just for future reference, a lot of the new cars have self diagnostics and Nissans in particular are pretty easy to trouble shoot. I used to do this all the time with my Sentra and its called the "Pedal Dance", you just have to get a rhythm down or use a stopwatch because the timing has to be pretty accurate. After doing it a few times I could do it every time by just counting in my head. The QR25 engines are notorious for problems so I did this quite often in parking lots or friends houses when a random CEL would pop up.Pulling The Codes Without a Scanner1Turn the ignition key to the "On" position, without starting the engine. Wait three seconds. Depress and release the gas pedal five times in five seconds, then let the pedal up. Count seven seconds and then depress the gas pedal and hold it down for 10 seconds. As soon as the service engine soon light starts flashing trouble codes, let the pedal up.2Make a note of all the codes by counting the flashes. For example, if the light will flash four times in a row and pause for a second and begin flashing again, the first four flashes stand for the number 4; it will then proceed to the next number. (Basically 1 flash = 1, 2 flashes = 2, etc... and 10 flashes =0)3Cross-reference these number codes with a code sheet. Repair all the faults before resetting the computer.4Reset the computer and turn the service engine soon light off by repeating the first process completely, with one exception: When the pedal is lifted after pressing the pedal down for 10 seconds and the codes are flashing, depress the pedal again for an additional 10 seconds and the computer will reset.Also, if there are more than 1 code it will continue on and give the next code so after it blinks all 4 numbers out, it will have a long pause and give the next code. If there are no more codes it will just repeat the first code so you will want to watch AT LEAST 2 code sequences to make sure there are no more. Edited October 24, 2011 by JStump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Post up what the codes are and I may be able to help out.Is it a 2.5L or 3.5L? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DTM Brian Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 gotta love limp mode+1.Probably a maf/tps or map/tps DTC. Drive by wire can be a bitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Well if its a QR25 it could be a MAF sensor, Coil Pack, Catalytic converter failure, or a few other things I can't remember off the top of my head but these are the most common issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meanie Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 post up what the codes are and i may be able to help out.Is it a 2.5l or 3.5l?2.5l Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 I am assuming it has the stock exhaust manifold on that? If so you should really look into getting at least a cheap header online before you start burning oil if you haven't already started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meanie Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Yeah everything is bone stock. Last time I checked it wasn't burning that much oil, but I'll pay a little more attention to it. I do my own oil changes and tire rotations and what not. Thanks, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Next time you change the oil, check it for little bits of metal. Also, do a google search on QR25 pre cat failure and butterfly valve screws. These are the 2 things you should fix immediately and it will save you from headaches later on.Also, post those codes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meanie Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Next time you change the oil, check it for little bits of metal. Also, do a google search on QR25 pre cat failure and butterfly valve screws. These are the 2 things you should fix immediately and it will save you from headaches later on.Also, post those codes Looks like I don't have to deal with the butterfly screws....."This issue affects all model year QR25DE engines except '06 which have redesigned screws."I'll look in to the pre-cat failure tho..Thanks again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 And just an FYI, I got $75 out of the old exhaust manifold when I took it to the scrap yard so you can probably find a header for not much more than that and just sell the old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meanie Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 It mentioned that did a recall, they should replace it for free at the stealership, right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JStump Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 (edited) nope, they will however replace the entire engine if it is burning significant amounts of oil or has a lot of metal shavings in the oil AND is under 60,000 miles I think. What they do with the recall is reflash the ECU so the engine "burns more efficiently" but everyone who has had this done has reported less MPG and lower power after the reflash. The reason being that not all the gas is burned in the cylinder and some of it actually ignites in the cat causing it to break up and get sucked back into the engine so this was their solution instead of just getting rid of the stupid second cat. Edited October 24, 2011 by JStump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jester3681 Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 Anyone have an automotive tester? The wifes car has the check engine light on and isn't running very well. (in very well i mean it won't go over about 10 MPH with it floored) I'm suspecting fuel filter, but its attached to the fuel pump and in the gas tank. I'd rather not have it towed, in fact if no one has one I'll try to drive to a nearby garage and see if they'll check the codes for me. Just trying to avoid driving the car, as it doesn't go over 5-10MPH.It's a 2006 Nissan Altima S.Thanks Fellers!PM me or call/text 614-284- 5 8 7 6. I worked at Nissan for 3 years and can probably talk you through this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meanie Posted October 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 ok just got the codes they are below.....P0 300Random multiple cylinder misfire detectedP0731Gear 1 ratio incorrectI got each of the codes twice.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jporter12 Posted October 24, 2011 Report Share Posted October 24, 2011 ok just got the codes they are below.....P0 300Random multiple cylinder misfire detectedP0731Gear 1 ratio incorrectI got each of the codes twice....Tuneup time for the P0300.For the P0731, this is what I get:First Gear Circuit Malfunction - With Automatic TransmissionPossible Causes 2nd Brake has failed2nd Coast Brake has failed Hydraulic control circuitOne-way clutch (No. 1) has failedOne-way clutch (No. 2) has failedShift solenoid valve A (Off stick) has failedSetting ConditionsEngine running; ATF signal more than 68ºF, vehicle speed more than 30 mph, and the TCM detected that the A/T did not shift into 1st Gear as commanded. This trouble code is not caused by an electrical malfunction. It is only caused by a mechanical problem (e.g., a control valve sticking or improper solenoid valve operation).This code sets in 2 Trip(s).This code will turn on the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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