Custom Yosh TRC 06/07 600/750 How-To

[BornSinner]

I fugured Flounder would get a kick out of this.....This write up was brought to us by "swizcore" from the gixxer.com forum.

This is a cool write up....and the final product looks SICK..

If I had this exhuast...I would be in the garage ight now....chopping away

Ok,

Let me start by explaining my reason for initially thinking to do this.

Why

I bought my second 06 750, this time a blk/yel used with 2700 miles all stock except for a BLINGIN Stainless Yoshimura TRC slip-on. Why would someone put the blinger on a majorily black bike as opposed to the carbon fiber? I don't know either, I just know It was messing up the mojo I was after for my bike and I needed to try to sell it and falling short of a sale I was gonna mod this shiney can myself.

Difficulty?

I am a very ambitious motivated person, at 20 in college I was putting a fully rebuilt carbed 350 out of a 69 Camaro into a one year old S-10 (1998). You need to have mechanical skills but more importantly you need to use common sense and ask questions if you have them instead of just seeing if such and such will work. I have shortened and repacked mx silencers for years and assumed this would be essentially the same thing with the exception of this slip-on needing to look perfect after the mod whereas a mx silencer gets beat up anyway so finish isnt really important.

Tools Used

Cordless drill

Quality metal drill bits

Dremel Tool with cutoff wheels(Or Air powered die grinder- but Dremel is preferred for precision)

Masking tape

Tape measure

Dead blow mallet (plastic/nylon head)

Rivet Gun (manual or auto)

Heat Gun (or hair dryer)

Reciprocating Saw

* Since I dont have alot of time on the bike since the install I want to make it clear that I MAY end up powder coating the can for durability, but right now it is simply coated in Rustoleum Flat Black.

The Deal

Here is what I started with:

Remove only the springs connecting the can to the mid pipe and the hangar strap bolt so that you may remove the can and place it on a soft surface on your work bench such as a towel.

Using your cordless drill and a 3/16" drill bit drill out all the rivets on each end of the can. Using a 1/8" drill bit drill out the four rivets holding the Yoshi emblem on the can. Use your heating source (gun or dryer) to heat up the emblem adhesive, there isnt much on it but it is a little stubborn. Get it off carefully so as to not bend it too much. If you do bend it during removal, it straightens back out pretty easily. Heres a pic I took with the bottom can rivets drilled out and pieces removed.

The top can tip cover is adhered to the shell so you'll need to use some sort of blunt object and your dead blow mallet to even tap around the covers base to get it to come off of the shell. Tap the red area highlighted below all the way around the can. It was kind of a bitch on mine.

Now, you need to determine the length of the can you want to end up with. I wanted the can to be exactly long enough to have the hangar strap flush against the nose cone base. When you determine the length you want, use masking tape to tape around the can as a guide for cutting the can shell. Be sure to use your measuring tape to assure your square all the way around the shell. When your guide is set use the dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and just score the shell all the way around its circumference. After its scored you can start working the cutting wheel around the shell, try to keep at a consistent depth instead of cutting through all at once. I went through about 6 or 7 1" cutoff wheels.

When you get the shell circumference cut you now need to cut the shell along its length from the end of the can to the cut you just made- you can try to just pull the shell off but it wasn't happening on mine, that SHIT IS TIGHT. When you get the length-wise cut done, remove the now useless skin you just cutoff.

Where gloves for this part unless you enjoy fiberglass cuts!!

Use a razor blade to cut through the fiberglass packing material. Try to cut it back at an angle under the shell skin so you dont have a hard time getting the end tip back inside the skin when your reassembling. Discard all that fiberglass.

Have a buddy stabilize the can and cut the inner core insert, the mesh and steel packing with a recriprocating saw using a NEW metal blade. Cut it flush with the mask line on the shell which you just cut with the dremel.

Now you can push the fiberglass packing which is trying to stick out of the shell back in and line up the metal inner core insert with the tip on the can and wrestle the tip back into the shell. Make sure the inner core insert is inside the end tip in the shell when you reinstall. Now you should be looking at this

And here is a close up of just the new raw slip-on

Now it is really simply a matter of choosing your finishing method, waiting, and pop riveting the pieces back together.

I have always had great luck with normal Rustoleum Flat Black spray paint. The night I got this all done to the point you see in the pic above I sprayed the swingarm side of the can with my trusty Rustoleum and went for a short though high rpm 6 mile ride to heat it up for a paint test. I got back and it was about as hot as a can gets and the next morning the paint looked GREAT. So I said, alright lets try this. I sanded down the entire shell, and cap cover and hanger bracket with 150 grit sand paper. Cleaned them off with towels I knew were free of any detergents or chemicals, hung them and sprayed them with 2 coats of Rustoleum Flat Black. I sprayed the end cap cover off the pipe because I wanted it to have essentially the same amount of paint on it in the end as everything else and I needed to spray the hidden old style tip which is under the cover so it wouldn't be blingin under the cover. You should sand and apply another coat of paint after you get the cap cover back on before riveting it all back together. So here is the mocked-up shorty before I riveted it back together.

When the paint is fully cured (after 24 hours of setting in a well ventilated room with good air flow and low humidity) You need to pop rivet everything back together. The two ends of the slip-on use 3/16"x 5mm rivets while the Yosh emblem uses 1/8"x3mm rivets.

I think thats about it. I'll answer any other specific questions if there are any. This shorty accomplishes all that I set out for, its a little louder with more rumble than the stock Yosh and its no longer blinged out.

Here are some final pics and a video clip of how she sounds while sitting.

[Moto-Brian]

VERY important note on core...

The inner core is longer than the cannister body. It goes into the inlet cap and outlet cap. Therefore, you need to measure that distance. Example, if you cut the outlet tip end, measure how far up into the cap it goes. Add that amount to your length cut off for the cannister body. Otherwise, the inner core will float inside and therfore cause issues...

Oh, and too short causes issue with mid range and sorts... No biggie, but doesn't add power, but can cause the mid range to drop or increase depending on what you do... We cut our cannisters and it helped a tad. Hurt top end a bit, but nothing of a concern...

Just watch the inner core length. Love 'em short!!

[BornSinner]

Thanks for the add-on....

[flounder]

looks good.. now all he needs to do is send out the mid-pipe and have it coated by jet-hot... I think thats their name. I have a CF can so mine is already dark...

I have thought about shortening it though. Just havent got around to it.

[Casper]

That's beautiful.

[max power]

that's big fat floppies. nice job.

[35RFTW]

That is definately an upgrade in the looks department!

[Kosmo]

wow !!! cool....!!!

[alcohol3232]

was thinking about how to go about this. Looks great!