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Custom Suppressors


jarvismb

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Quick question to you more educated firearms folks (you're all criminals, btw); as I've read through the atf.gov site, it seems that if I want to manufacture my own suppressor, all I need is to pay the $200 tax stamp with a Form 1 and wait for the results. Do I have this right?

I'm a bored engineer with access to great software and great machining tools, so I have a design all set to go. I just need to know if I go through with it, I'm doing everything legally and properly. I tried to do my homework before I blindly asked my favorite forum, but now I just want a second opinion on my research.

As always, thanks in advance (probably to flounder), and I can only hope this becomes an open-carry, SHTF, bug-out, zombie fecal-fest by the third post.

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What kind of suppressor would it be, one for when the zombies attack for an AR, or an AK. Maybe you should stock open carry your AR into the work parking lot in your car, then put it in its case, that way at lunch you can go to the car and get specs etc.

But be careful walking out there may be a zombie or sasquatch taking a shit on your car.

I always wondered exactly what you had to do too, got it now.

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Quick question to you more educated firearms folks (you're all criminals, btw); as I've read through the atf.gov site, it seems that if I want to manufacture my own suppressor, all I need is to pay the $200 tax stamp with a Form 1 and wait for the results. Do I have this right?

I'm a bored engineer with access to great software and great machining tools, so I have a design all set to go. I just need to know if I go through with it, I'm doing everything legally and properly. I tried to do my homework before I blindly asked my favorite forum, but now I just want a second opinion on my research.

As always, thanks in advance (probably to flounder), and I can only hope this becomes an open-carry, SHTF, bug-out, zombie fecal-fest by the third post.

You got it. Ive built a Form 1 myself for the exact same reason. Wanted to see if I could do it. :) Ive still got some bar stock around if your interested and depending on caliber. I can probably also provide some input and you can get allot over on silencertalk in the smithing section.

Just make sure you have the paperwork back before starting on the tube, baffels/core, or caps. (So basically any of the can :) )

Edited by flounder
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Perfect, thanks guys (and obviously flounder).

I did a lot of reading and it's just like you said, I just want to see if I can do it. The results will be nice to shoot with, obviously, but it's as much an engineering challenge as anything else.

There are tons of different ways to do them, but I opted for a modular k-baffle system since it would be easy to make with a CNC lathe. I also really like the fact that k-baffles are self-spacing and therefore do not require alternating rings and spacers. Also I can easily change my solidworks models by 0'75" for every additional k-baffle I want to install if I find I want more expansion chambers. Just need to change the sleeve length and everything is golden. I used the same bore diameter ratios that YHM uses as a starting point since I found they are more conservative with their bore relief than others.

I added a large blast-chamber as the primary expansion zone to save the baffles from being eaten alive when used in this configuration. The k-baffles rest of a ledge machined into the end of this chamber.

I also designed the system to be serviced with only two 1/8" spanner wrenches. Should be easy to change baffles or clean out and easy to reassemble. You can see that stackup in the picture below, and I added a section view to make it easier to see the fitment and threading.

picture.php?albumid=1254&pictureid=15364

picture.php?albumid=1254&pictureid=15365

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What caliber? That expansion chamber may have too much volume depending on cal which will increase the first round pop before the can fills with gas. I would create a heavier duty blast baffle as the first baffle in the stack and decrease the volume of the expansion/blast chamber. Youll also need something to keep the baffles centered/spaced in the tube correctly for the expansion/blast chamber.

I would also jut put 2 holes in the faces of the endcaps (not all the way through) for the spanner and you can use 1 spanner wrench instead of 2. Not to mention you wont increase weight since you dont have to have as thick of an endcap to support the spanner holes on the sides.

Nice SW modeling. Ive been too lazy to install it on my laptop and modeled my last one with a free version of Alibre

Edited by flounder
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This is bored for 223/556, and is currently modeled/spec'd for a common AR15 threaded barrel. I've read about that first round pop being an issue with blast chamber designed chambers, and I have no desire to go into active oxygen displacement, so for me it was a design choice between first round pop and general baffle longevity. Just a design choice like any other. I realize this is by no means the ultimate suppressor with bleeding edge tech, it's just a design that would be effective and importantly for me, much more feasible to build with accessible tools.

I've looked up normal tolerances with CNC lathing, so the design is spec'd to allow minimum wall spacing within machining tolerance, and with tight wall fittment along with the annular ledge cut into the blast chamber, the k-baffles should be concentric and aligned to within +/-0.005 just by design.

I was going to play around with adding a conical crown to the entry bore of each baffle to give it a longer life, maybe I'll render and assemble one like that to see how it plays out. If I do it right, I should be able to insert either kind of baffle without any effect on the fitment of the assembly.

Let me see what I can come up with, but in the mean time, so you think the blast chamber is too big to 223?

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neato! what machine are you going to use? do you write code or generate with cam? are you good with mills? how about 5 axis? WANT A FUCKING JOB?

I'm going to use a solidworks plug-in to write the tooling paths. I'm learning as I go, so I'll let you know more as soon as I do. I'm an electrical engineer, but I had some time, so I knew nothing about modeling. I just spent a week teaching myself solidworks because we have it at work. Now I make all of my pcb enclosures if they need to be custom, and a bunch of models for fun. It was a useful thing to learn, so I gave it a shot.

Since I'm not formally educated on this, you don't want me working on anything you really need done professionally. I'm not any good at this, it's just that the physics and structure of a suppressor are so simple that it makes it look like I know more than I do. I bet there are people on this site that could destroy me in this stuff.

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I crowned the inlet bore on a new baffle model and realized if I did it this way, I could use both in any combination I wanted. You can see both types (crowned and uncrowned) on the "table" next to the sectioned assembly. The section shows the crown profile on the first baffle.

Now I'm thinking the crowned baffle is a better design.

picture.php?albumid=1254&pictureid=15366

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This is bored for 223/556, and is currently modeled/spec'd for a common AR15 threaded barrel. I've read about that first round pop being an issue with blast chamber designed chambers, and I have no desire to go into active oxygen displacement, so for me it was a design choice between first round pop and general baffle longevity. Just a design choice like any other. I realize this is by no means the ultimate suppressor with bleeding edge tech, it's just a design that would be effective and importantly for me, much more feasible to build with accessible tools.

I've looked up normal tolerances with CNC lathing, so the design is spec'd to allow minimum wall spacing within machining tolerance, and with tight wall fittment along with the annular ledge cut into the blast chamber, the k-baffles should be concentric and aligned to within +/-0.005 just by design.

I was going to play around with adding a conical crown to the entry bore of each baffle to give it a longer life, maybe I'll render and assemble one like that to see how it plays out. If I do it right, I should be able to insert either kind of baffle without any effect on the fitment of the assembly.

Let me see what I can come up with, but in the mean time, so you think the blast chamber is too big to 223?

This may cause you issues if its your reason for not using a spacer for tight fit. You have to remember that the pressures inside the can are capable of reaching in excess of 50 KPSI and the heat will cause expansion of the baffles and tube at different rates. Those baffles if not welded or held in place via spacer WILL MOVE and you will get a baffle strike. Not to mention affect accuracy. You really should consider building a blast baffle and spacer

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neato! what machine are you going to use? do you write code or generate with cam? are you good with mills? how about 5 axis? WANT A FUCKING JOB?

There seems to be a run on 5 axis machines lately and a shortage of people to run them. Do you have a government contract?

Now I make all of my pcb enclosures if they need to be custom, and a bunch of models for fun.

I have done a lot of work for this company.

http://www.polycase.com/

Hundreds of pcb enclosures.

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haha i am excitable

but it really does look neat. i considered making one or two here, but i have too much production stuff to make it worthwhile.

Jbot, what the heck do you do for a living? Craig has mentioned that your business deals with manufacturing of things that go bang or their associated components.

Other than wrestling with pigs in the mud naked he has no idea what you do when you're not at the track.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, fucking Kodak just closed our model shop, so it looks like this will not happen any time soon. Thanks for answering my questions and giving me some suggestions though, it was a fun design. If the opportunity to make it ever comes up again, I'll post up pics of the product.

Too bad, I was gonna make some flash suppressors too...

picture.php?albumid=1254&pictureid=15436

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