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Litre or 750 Tracker???


donkason

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Congrats on the buy!

IMO, don't waste your money on the upgrades. Stock levers and damper are fine.

Brake lines are a good idea, but flushing and bleeding the system will get you going just fine. Wait till you actually see a loss of feel before doing the upgrade. I found the stock lines to be fine when I had my 750 out.

Again, I'd only replace the pads if they are worn down. Wait till they are needed for the upgrade.

The cost of all those upgrades would add up to a few track days and improving your skill is the best upgrade you can get.

Thanks!

I glazed my Busa's pads but it weighs about 200lbs more. I'll take it out to the track and see how the OEM stuff feels first. The bikes only got 3500 miles on it and a few track days so I'm sure there is plenty of meat left on the pads.

I have Repsol DOT 4 sitting at the house on the ready. The owners dad did all the work on it and I saw Amsoil motorcycle oil on the floor for it and it made me feel better.

This thing feels like I'm sitting on a law chair!

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Yeah Ive run all of the above brake pads and I can't tell a difference IF you run the EBC top of the line, to which I am currently running the Versah mid-top, not mid, but not tiop, becasue they offer like 10 different levels, and lvoe them.

Also SS lines would be a plus, I do feel this is a good upgrade and one tat is a huge benefit. I ddi not do rear SS lines because I rarely use the rear brake except for cornering, and have had no issues.

FYI I ride an 06 GSXR 600.

Then I would save for suspension, byu far the biggest plus.

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And has that additional horsepower made you any faster?

I suspect not. Maybe eventually, but 20 hp doesn't immediately translate into faster laps. Horsepower is an obstacle to riding at a pace your brain can cope with.

Handling and feel are king at the track. My friend Jeff went from a 1000rr to an r6 and dropped several seconds at every track. The 600 is just easier to ride without making a mistake. That inspires confidence and faster laps.

Very good stuff here. I will add that there are things that need to be done on a 600 that are not needed on a liter bike.

600s are about corner speed. Very aggressive corner speed. Their chassis are amazing and allow for this and definitely inspire confidence, but the 600s today are not the 600s of yesterday. Don't go and buy a 600 with the idea that you're going to be faster. They are in the 110 hp stock range and easily 130s when built decent. But, they are razor blades. They handle so fast and quick, they can get you in trouble.

But, understand that the newer liter bikes are fucking fast. They also handle a shit pile better than even 2 years ago or the previous generation. I can say that obviously an equal rider on both, the 600 will hurt a liter bike in the turns. The liter bike gets drive and straight line, but the transitions left to right are where the things really get beat down and where riders get into issues.

Anyone can get into turn 1 at Mid-O for example of a liter bike or 600, right? But, T2 through the Keyhole separate things quickly. Same with T8 all through the back. The liter bikes under the controls of a good rider can really shine. However, when a lesser rider runs a liter bike, they can make the ground and do what is needed to control the bike, but to master the things requires so much input and effort to do so EVERY lap, that they wear you out.

My 1000 was doing @ 192-ish to the ground. It handled well, was very civil although people would never believe it, but I used to get a lot of comments like "Man, if I had such a rocket, I could do so much better than I do on my 600..." Bullshit. No offense, but it takes years of riding and experience to ride ANY size bike fast.

I handed the bike over to a few friends and they all said the same thing. It was awesome, it was fast, it was smoother than they thought. But, they all also said, "I don't know how you ride that thing fast every lap." Or, they'd comment how hard it was to ride as you went faster. Not because it was a fire breather or ill handling at speed. But because it was rushing into turns at a higher rate of speed, it was moving under load in places where wheel spin was occurring when everything they rode was done with wheel spinning. Things that fatigue you as you ride it.

The bottom line is that a good rider can go faster than a lesser rider on anything. If you have a GSXR1000 and think you've got it sorted, there's a number of guys that will run faster than you with only a few laps of getting adapted to it. Same with a 600. You can have a totally sorted 600 and think you got it made and the same guy can throw a leg over and beat your fastest within a few laps.

The bottom line is ability, it is the rider. It isn't the bike. Choose wisely. A 600 would be the best to learn corner speed, but honestly, a 750 is a better choice. It is a built 600 with a better bottom end and pull out of turns. Just don't get pissed when a guy on a stock R6 comes by you at an event... It isn't the HP... I think with your size, the 750 is a great choice. There are a million out there and several well sorted race bikes also.

Good luck!

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From a GSXR owner of all the sizes, the biggest things you need to do on the bikes are in this order:

-Suspension. They need raised in the front a ton and require chassis changes to be at optimal in terms of track performance. You can ride and adapt to the bike, but the issue is handling on these bikes and you are working harder than you need to than if you get the suspension sorted. You can get Fork Cap Extenders and a 20 mil kit for next to nothing and find a good used Penske for rear ride adjustment and such for the rear.

-Brakes. Don't run OEM lines. Get rid of the EBCs and bleed the system. Oh, and if you are going to race SS eventually and need the OEM M/C, start understanding how to bleed brakes because they fade every session. The M/C is a weak link. It isn't the calipers... But, you can buy a Brembo used and remove that issue.

That's it. The slip-on you have is fine. A PC3 is advised no matter what as a slip-on can be better tuned with a PC3 than not. If it has the clip-ons and rearsets, you have the positioning set.

Suspension, suspension, suspension...

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Yea when I pull my suspension this winter I'm getting cap extenders too. It's a must to raise it, and new springs becasue I am FAT>

Fork extenders are part of suspension. Any serious suspension guy (35 Motorsports - REUBEN FRANKENFIELD!!!) will not allow you to roll w/o em...

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Wow, I got work to do.

Explain clip ons and how they would benefit me and the geometry behind fork cap extenders.

My elbows hang outside my knees if I go into full tuck. Is that standard?

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Fork extenders are part of suspension. Any serious suspension guy (35 Motorsports - REUBEN FRANKENFIELD!!!) will not allow you to roll w/o em...

Exactly, unfortunately, the kid who owned the bike before didn't have them and I havent had the suspension refreshed, until this off season, so going all out and getting it done right :)

Plus may need to talk to Reuben about something special too ;)

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Yea when I pull my suspension this winter I'm getting cap extenders too. It's a must to raise it, and new springs becasue I am FAT>

More cushion for the pushin' baby!:sex:

Sorry...I didn't mean to ghey up the OP's thread. But on the subject of extenders, I myself need to employ said appliances when I get the forks done in the offseason. Providing I don't sell the blue waffle and upgrade to newer bike technology.

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Wow, I got work to do.

Explain clip ons and how they would benefit me and the geometry behind fork cap extenders.

My elbows hang outside my knees if I go into full tuck. Is that standard?

The bike suffers from needing more trail and the extenders allow for that. You really cannot get away with lowering the forks INTO the triples below the top surface of the top triple clamp. You can even run the stock tubes flush and it isn't enough...

Clip-ons get you into a more attack position and allows for better leverage on the bars. Rearsets and clip-ons get you into a more race position. Stock might be good for you, though. But, you crash OEM clip-ons and you pay $100 per side. You crash a clip-on and you pay $15. A bit of a difference and easy fix...

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More cushion for the pushin' baby!:sex:

Sorry...I didn't mean to ghey up the OP's thread. But on the subject of extenders, I myself need to employ said appliances when I get the forks done in the offseason. Providing I don't sell the blue waffle and upgrade to newer bike technology.

I didn't run extenders on the 05. You're good with flush. I can try and find the rear ride height numbers also, but the 04/05s were the start of the issue and the 06/07s were the ones that needed the extenders 100%. Both 600 and 750.

Everything after 06 were the same - needed extenders. You should be fine.

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More cushion for the pushin' baby!:sex:

Sorry...I didn't mean to ghey up the OP's thread. But on the subject of extenders, I myself need to employ said appliances when I get the forks done in the offseason. Providing I don't sell the blue waffle and upgrade to newer bike technology.

Ill let you know when I get my stuff going to Reubens etc. I do want to call Pegrams too thought, last time I talked to them they said they would have Larry's Ohlins guy specifically work on my Ohlins stuff, and its 5 mins from home.

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I didn't run extenders on the 05. You're good with flush. I can try and find the rear ride height numbers also, but the 04/05s were the start of the issue and the 06/07s were the ones that needed the extenders 100%. Both 600 and 750.

Everything after 06 were the same - needed extenders. You should be fine.

Now that you mention it, I do recall us having part of this conversation once before. Guess I am having a senior moment. You gonna be at Beaver this weekend?

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