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exSRAaron

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Thanks KC,

Gilles rearsets in the mail, just ordered: V4 speedohealer, JT 520 front sprocket, black vortex 520 rear sprocket, Gold DID XSO520VM. -1+2 gearing :D

Depending what tracks you are running, the -1,+2 may not be ideal for that track. Just something to keep in mind.

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Yeah i was thinking about doing something a lil less. but ill probably only be hitting up the STT novice group at mid-o once or twice this season, before i sell the bike.

What are you running on ur 600? cant remember if thats ur track bike or not..and on the street I'm really not worried about top-end anymore

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Yeah i was thinking about doing something a lil less. but ill probably only be hitting up the STT novice group at mid-o once or twice this season, before i sell the bike.

What are you running on ur 600? cant remember if thats ur track bike or not..and on the street I'm really not worried about top-end anymore

To be honest, I really dont worry about top end at all. My reference wasnt really from a loosing top end stand point but more from a youre going to be shifting like crazy and winding out in spots you would rather not be wound out in at the track. I am still running stock gearing on both my bikes, 750 and 1K.

I went +2 on the rear on the dirtbike just to make the bottom end more snappy. Not to mention, I dont need to run 90mph on my dirtbike.

a -1+2 setup is going to make your bike pretty snappy in the bottom end. If your only going to to 1-2 trackdays, its probably not a big deal at all. I was just throwing the infor out there as an FYI.

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To be honest, I really dont worry about top end at all. My reference wasnt really from a loosing top end stand point but more from a youre going to be shifting like crazy and winding out in spots you would rather not be wound out in at the track. I am still running stock gearing on both my bikes, 750 and 1K.

I went +2 on the rear on the dirtbike just to make the bottom end more snappy. Not to mention, I dont need to run 90mph on my dirtbike.

a -1+2 setup is going to make your bike pretty snappy in the bottom end. If your only going to to 1-2 trackdays, its probably not a big deal at all. I was just throwing the infor out there as an FYI.

Yeah I've thought about that; if I was planning on doing more trackdays I would've likely went with -1 or -2 upfront. My main goal at mid-o is to improve my overall skill level, and to be able to push my bike in a safer controlled environment, not really looking for quickest lap times etc..

Oh, and a good amount of the money I'm spending is going towards gear. And some of the parts will be transferred to my new bike once the time comes.

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Ah got some gearing info from one of the guys who ran on the Wizard Nat'l Endurance team on a k6 Gixxer 1k. He said they ran 16/47 (-1 front +5 rear) So I am going to put on 46 tooth rear for -1 +4 on the 1k.. Seeing how I didn't even touch 6th gear at Mid OH even with -1 +1.

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To be honest, I really dont worry about top end at all. My reference wasnt really from a loosing top end stand point but more from a youre going to be shifting like crazy and winding out in spots you would rather not be wound out in at the track. I am still running stock gearing on both my bikes, 750 and 1K.

I went +2 on the rear on the dirtbike just to make the bottom end more snappy. Not to mention, I dont need to run 90mph on my dirtbike.

a -1+2 setup is going to make your bike pretty snappy in the bottom end. If your only going to to 1-2 trackdays, its probably not a big deal at all. I was just throwing the infor out there as an FYI.

Actually Flounder -1 +2 is pretty standard on race bikes... My 600 was -1 +2 at the end of last year and was much better.

The thing going up the extra teeth can do is allow you to run that higher gear which smooths out mid corner.

The ideal situation is to run the highest gear you can without sacrificing drive out on any bike. Going into corners with the RPM in the high range is not idea as generally the throttle response is a bit trickier and generally requires the rider to make a shift early in corner exit.

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Yeah I've thought about that; if I was planning on doing more trackdays I would've likely went with -1 or -2 upfront. My main goal at mid-o is to improve my overall skill level, and to be able to push my bike in a safer controlled environment, not really looking for quickest lap times etc..

Oh, and a good amount of the money I'm spending is going towards gear. And some of the parts will be transferred to my new bike once the time comes.

I would never go -2 on the front as, Lizard correct me if I am wrong, but narrowing the radius that much can put extra strain on the drive system (chain and rear sprockets)...

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