Need some help!

[Kent2406]

Bike is an 05 Kawasaki ZZR600 formerly known as an 00-02 ZX6R.

After work today, I go to start the bike and it runs for about 30 secs and just shuts off, as if I turned the key off. I try restarting it, and nothing. I hook up jumper cables to a coworkers vehicle, and the bike fires right up, but as soon as I unhook the cables, it shuts off.

Alternator or stator, maybe?

[TRMN8TR]

Or the rectifier/regulator. Definitely a voltage loss problem.

[gixxie750]

battery cable loose? Guages and headlights turn on?

[Bradycook]

Regulator or stator... How old is your battery? I've heard of peoples batteries working great and then just quitting, but that still wouldn't explain it just dieing on you.

[TRMN8TR]

You only need the battery to get it started, and the fact it starts when you jump it tells me the battery cables have good connections. Your battery probably is dead now, but only cause the bike quit making voltage. It then ran off battery power until the battery died.

I think you are on the right track with alt/stator or R/R.

[Kent2406]

Thanks guys for the responses. Guess I'm gonna have to get the service manual out and start trouble shooting.

[Gixxus Christ!]

Borrow a good battery and hook it up, start bike and check voltage to ground on the 3 wires going into r/r. Should be 60-80 v AC. (Check your book to make sure) on each wire. Check dc voltage across wires coming out of r/r, should be 13 or so v dc. If you got nothing on the 3 wires its your stator, if you have nothing on the 2 its your r/r. If both are good you roaches your battery.

Anyone please correct me if this is wrong, I've never done this on that particular bike but I figure if it has a 3 field stator and a solid state r/r it shouldn't be much different than a Honda or a Yamaha.

[mello dude]

Agree with CSC that the kawi should have a 3 phase system....

-- To add more fodder to the mix.....

--Your gonna have to do a serious dig into your charging system......-- Check to see that your connectors are good, I've seen some nasty burn up parts, especially the stator connector. ---If they are toast - fix first.

-- Your are going to need a reasonable quality digital multimeter. Lots of places have them.

Then --- ---Go through this starting point quick list.

Steps:

- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.

- With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.

These are R/R quick checks---

--- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish idle and in 14s at revs.

- Check stator

- 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.

- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks .

- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings

- Repeat hot.

This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart.

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

Knock out the numbers, write 'em down and tell us what they are. -- We'll go from there. ......

Edited September 14, 2012 by mello dude

[Kent2406]

Thanks again! Much appreciated! I'm gonna start with the battery, charge it, get it tested, and go from there.

[TRMN8TR]

Agree with CSC that the kawi should have a 3 phase system....

-- To add more fodder to the mix.....

--Your gonna have to do a serious dig into your charging system......-- Check to see that your connectors are good, I've seen some nasty burn up parts, especially the stator connector. ---If they are toast - fix first.

-- Your are going to need a reasonable quality digital multimeter. Lots of places have them.

Then --- ---Go through this starting point quick list.

Steps:

- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.

- With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.

These are R/R quick checks---

--- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish idle and in 14s at revs.

- Check stator

- 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms.

- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks .

- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings

- Repeat hot.

This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart.

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

Knock out the numbers, write 'em down and tell us what they are. -- We'll go from there. ......

Great info, saving that link!