undr_psi Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 So I went out to start the bike, dead battery or so I thought, put the battery tender on over night and tried to start the bike again..nothing. Not even enough power to light up the dash lights. I checked the battery with a multi meter (12.64v) turned the bike on and it dropped to below 6v. Turn key off battery reads 12.64v again. Talked to a few people that said maybe the rectifier was bad. Disconnected it, nothing changed. Tested the ohms on the r/r all pins were pretty much the same. Pulled the headlight fuse and turned key on, everything powered up but still no priming of the fuel pump or starter, but one of the starter relays started clicking so I swapped it with the other one and the clicking didn't move. I'm baffled any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 If your battery is reading 6v at any time then I am willing to bet your battery is dead. Test it with another 12v battery (car, spare bike, whatever) and if it turns over then you know it is the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bshultz0930 Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Yea sounds like you have a bad battery man.. A battery can read 12volts all day but as soon as you put a load to it and it dumps down that far, it's bad. Most it should drop to is probably 11.5 on a bad charge. But bolts don't mean squat either.. You can have plenty of volts but if there are no amps it means nothing. I'd say change your battery and double check your charging system.. It's normal for relays to start going haywire with low voltage.. I'd explain it but its too much to type on a phone.. Start with replacing battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba Posted November 19, 2012 Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Battery plates can be so sulfated that they can't generate enough current when a load is applied, but still read +12v on a meter. Also, if a battery is completely drained, a tender prolly doesn't provide enough current to adequately charge the system. If you want to try to save it for the winter and replace it next spring, use a charger that supplies 2-3 amps (vs the 0.5-0.75 of the tender) and leave it on for no more than an hour or so, then put the tender on to top it off.Failing this, you spring for a new battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
undr_psi Posted November 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 19, 2012 Battery is a AGM that's less the 4 mos old.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 Its not hard or time consuming to rule out the battery vs trying to debug everything else. With electrical problems, its usually the most simple thing that causes the greatest impact (battery, short, blown fuse, etc.). Just because it is 4 months old doesn't mean that its not the problem; in fact it therefore has a shorter track record of being correctly operational. I can tell you that it is NOT your r/r circuit if you are putting in a charged battery since it should have enough juice to start and run a bike for a while (it could be the cause of a dead battery though).If you still want to do it the hard way then here are some things to check: -bank angle sensor-voltage at pink ignition wire (should be ~5v, if not replace with 1k ohm resistor and 5.1v zener diode)-bypass fuel pump relay and see if it primes-bypass starter relay and see if the starter motor turns-pull all fuses that are not necessary for starting and see if it does (helps rule out shorts and lowers demand on battery) -deep discharge recover of battery (can't give you explicit instructions because I don't know brand)-pay hob to fix it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mello dude Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 - Lean toward bad battery like everyone else. -- You could pull it, give it an overnite charge, then take to autozone or simular for load test. That will say yes/no once and for all. - Once you get the battery sorted, you should do the basic charging system checks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imprez55 Posted November 20, 2012 Report Share Posted November 20, 2012 - Lean toward bad battery like everyone else. -- You could pull it, give it an overnite charge, then take to autozone or simular for load test. That will say yes/no once and for all. - Once you get the battery sorted, you should do the basic charging system checks.FYI Autozone won't load test motorcycle batteries. They say the equipment they have will overly drain a mc battery because it is designed for cars. I can't comment on the truthfulness of it and YMMV, but that is the statement I have gotten at 2 different stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bshultz0930 Posted November 27, 2012 Report Share Posted November 27, 2012 whatever came of this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
undr_psi Posted December 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2012 Battery failed a load test and is still under warranty. Got it from Hoblick and he's taking care of everything. As soon as I get the new one and run a few test ill give a better update Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
undr_psi Posted December 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2012 All said and done, battery was the problem. Thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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