copperhead

If you do go this route, find one that's either very close to home or work. I don't know about others by with mine their hours suck so you may have to rush there on lunch break or before or after work.

62 BBQ in Johnstown

See an allergist about getting the shots, changed my life

From what I understand the inspection is done by the state and they require receipts of all parts used to rebuild it so you prove you aren't using stolen parts.

At my last apartment we had a neighbor that was a mother of 2 who asked us a couple times to make less noise when we had people over. I think the cops showed up once or twice. Not long after my roommate started inviting her over, then sleeping with her, and she suddenly didn't mind the noise any more.

Slipping is where the clutch and pressure plate are making contact but not fully engaged. This happens every time you take off and to a smaller degree when you shift, this is a normal part of the process. However, some people use it as a way to be lazy on a hill to hold them in place instead of using the brakes. It is possible to engage the drive line enough that it will hold you in place on a hill but not actually start to move forward. This will ruin a clutch very quickly. When a clutch wears out it will start to slip when fully engaged. When this happens you can tell because you hit the gas and instead of it reacting evenly with the amount of gas you give it, it accelerates much slower, until it stops engaging altogether. With a slipping clutch you can be rolling in gear, gas it and watch the RPMs go up without it accelerating at an equal pace. With a tach that doesn't work correctly you are going to have a difficult time. I learned on vehicles that didn't have a tach in the first place which meant getting a feel for what the engine was doing, which unfortunately for you is mostly by hearing it. I'd suggest getting that tach fixed. As far as what to do when shifting - the taking off part as already been covered by others. Give it a bit of gas (not too much) then when you feel the clutch engage start giving it more gas while lifting off the clutch. Between gears, always lift off the gas, otherwise the RPM of the clutch will be way higher than the pressure plate when you go to release the clutch. This means you will either get slip (bad) or with a grippy racing clutch an unpleasant jerk. Once you get comfortable with driving a manual, look into rev matching for downshifting. It makes downshifts much smoother which makes the ride more pleasant and is easier on the clutch, but that's not something to worry about until you have the basics down. Practice on flat ground quickly transitioning from brakes to gas and timing the releasing of the clutch for takeoff. If you can get good at that without stalling then hill starts will become easier to practice when you feel ready. The only difference is you will need to give it a bit more gas so you don't stall out when on a hill. Also, always remember to push in the clutch when coming to a stop, or you will stall.

Practice practice practice. And don't slip the clutch to hold it on a hill, use the brakes. That's a good way to eat through clutches

If its still around by this weekend I may also be able to do $500, if its gone or thats not enough no biggie

The 5 mile section of Mink that I drive daily has two different cross roads that are blind in one direction, one from a turn and lots of trees and the other from a hill. The bicyclist that I saw hurt was at one of those two intersections. It's very common for me to have to hit the brakes because someone in a car pulled out in front of me, because they couldn't see me coming. A car can at least pull away at a reasonable amount of speed, decreasing the chances of a collision. A bicycle is relatively slow and the rider isn't watching their 6 to know to get out of the way, which greatly increases their chance of getting hit. You may wear hi-vis gear but only MAYBE a quarter of the cyclists I see out there do. But even that doesn't matter when I go around a turn then pop over a hill only to encounter a flock of 20+ bikes all over the road and have to slam on the brakes so I don't go bowling. It's happened plenty of times to me.

A bicycler got hurt on mink road yesterday, dunno if they got hit or what. I drove past an ambulance and about 4 sheriff cars. Remember, cars going 60 through hills and turns aren't going to see you until its too late, so don't be that guy I see all the time riding in the middle of the road. Stay right or better yet find roads that are actually wide enough to have a shoulder. Mink is deteriorating to the point that there are a lot of places where I'm driving across the center line so I'm not bending my wheels in the craters

NTB at 4th and Long

Octane and Faction

if you leave them in too long they will pop. Its a nasty sticky mess, i recommend not doing it.

Let's keep this thread alive. Post about anything from going on a fun drive to doing a much needed brake job. I don't know about you guys but it seems like any more its harder and harder to find time doing things I enjoy. Today I replaced a melted wiring connector and the multifunction switch in the column of my neon. I now have working high beams for the first time since I bought the car :fuckyeah:

http://www.dispatch.com/content/stories/local/2012/05/04/obama-runners-will-roil-traffic.html downtown/OSU is gonna be fucked. Cars&Coffee people, have fun and don't go north.

and of course I'll toss in a can of PB Blaster. Maybe some gloves and rags too. This is, after all, a dual purpose kit. Hmm. Kobalt 22" box $20. Makita 21" bag $27 Black & Decker 21" bag $13 Hitachi 24" bag $23 ACU digital camo 19" bag $24 Style N Craft 20" bag $23 generic ass canvas 24" bag $7 Milwaukee 24" bag $25 Fox camo canvas 19" bag $16 generic black 19" tanker bag $14 Kawasaki 24" bag $25 OD Tanker 19" bag $14

bumping my old thread because I FINALLY got around to picking some shit up. So far I got: Craftsman Evolv 3/8 ratchet $15 32 piece screwdriver set $7, comes with a couple star and hex bits 51 piece socket set $10. The ratchets are seriously crappy which is why I got the craftsman. The case sucks too so I will probably end up with some socket rails. Socket adapters $4 so I can skip 1/4" and 1/2" ratchets. 3/8" makes sense to me 1/2" drive 18" breaker bar $10 This is why I don't need a 1/2" ratchet I tossed in a pile of random torx/hex bits I had laying around. I still need a wrench set and a box that the breaker bar will fit in. I've got a random 18" box from O'Reillys but the breaker bar just barely doesn't fit in it. Harbor Freight didn't have crap for boxes or bags and Craftsman just lists smaller stuff. I'll probably be looking into Husky but I'm open to opinions. I'll probably get this wrench set for $19 but again I'm open to suggestions. Anything I'm missing? So far I'm in it for about $45, not including wrenches and box. Not bad.

I'm of no help, I'm not a machinist nor do I play one on TV. I doubt that Nate is in state so sending Matt a PM is probably your best bet.

If FOCUS=LOL and MAZDA3=LOL then we can deduce FOCUS=LOL=MAZDA3 therefore FOCUS=MAZDA3

cobalts still have warranties?

Were the front brake pads included on that test model?

lol, makes me love my .17HMR, it keeps getting cheaper

My guess is blown up barrels from shit quality control