ReconRat

Ok, glad to hear it. And for the record, when I was young and stupid, I put STP in my motorcycle. Yes, the clutch plates stuck together. No it didn't get any better till I took the clutch plates out and cleaned them off. With a couple of oil changes. It didn't return completely to normal till I dismantled the entire engine one winter, and cleaned it all out. The clutch plates would be stuck every morning when I started it. It would jump and stall and squeal the back tire, and then be ok, with some really hard shifts all the time. Broke a few chains. Live and learn.

did you find that or is this just a public service announcement??

Yes, I found that one at work. Two co-workers found two others.

My neighbor that metal detects knows that bullets can be found anywhere, lots and lots of them. Oddly, he's also found a hand grenade in a park, and a 250 pound aerial bomb in a school yard. Go figure. He's got the skills, he did ordnance removal in Vietnam.

Short answer: Yes

Long answer: Yes, but... remove all rust and grease with abrasives or steel wool, and use something to clean up, a solvent that won't leave a residue. A paint prep. Don't leave finger prints on the bare metal. Maybe use a chem prep to put a pre-coating on the bare steel. Paint it with primer that is compatible with the finish paint. (Means use same brand and same type) All painting must be done at the proper temperatures and humidity. Avoid dust and bugs. Let everything dry the proper amount. Krylon for beginners, it works well. Dupli-Color for vehicles. Check out the "How To" on the websites.

http://www.krylon.com/products/

http://www.krylon.com/projects/paint-techniques/

http://www.duplicolor.com/index.html

http://www.duplicolor.com/howto/index.html

If you ever wondered why people say not to be standing outside on New Year's Eve. It's all those rounds fired into the sky, they have to fall back somewhere.

This is one of three found the week after. All found out in the open on sidewalks where they were easy to see. This one is .45ACP.

And just for fun, a pic flying over Atlanta last week. Stormy skies.

Polyester thread, I hope. Not just cotton thread, or it won't last. Right?

I've done seats, it's difficult to get them proper tight enough, and stay centered etc. Yours looks excellent. Did you use a sewing machine for that?

edit: oops, I can see it in the one picture. Is it something heavy duty?

Clutch parts diagram

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com/cheapcycleparts/Suzuki_OEM/SuzukiMC.asp?Type=13&A=315&B=6

Only the parts at the bottom of the picture are relevant. Those are the ones in the sprocket cover assembly.

I can't find the sprocket cover anywhere in the parts lists either. It happens, makes it fun to try and buy one.

Hi, It may be carbon build up from barely reving it. It might do you good to ride it hard once in awhile to blow the carbon out. The bummer would be shimming it then having the carbon blown out leaving no clearence.

Works the other way, a carbon build up anywhere in the valve train would reduce the clearances. Yes?

1. Measurements should be at nominal temps, room temperature. like 70F

2. Some air cooled engines won't like factory exhaust gap specs. They will leak when the engine warms up too much. I had one like that. I just gave it a tiny bit more than the factory spec, then it quit leaking. edit: or was it the intake valve? whatever, details lost in Time...

I've had clutch plates stick. They will unstick when you drop it in gear. Just be sure to have the brake on hard, and not be pointed at anything solid at the time, heh. Usually it will just try to jump and stall, and then be ok after that. (Till the next time)

edit: not the same as a dry plate clutch on a car or truck. On a dry plate you have to pull the coil wire, and crank the starter back and forth between forward and reverse with the clutch pedal pushed in, till it's free. If you don't pull the coil wire, you might go for a wild ride. I knew a guy that had a tractor roll over on him doing that.

edit #2: oil additives like STP will totally goof your clutch plates making them stick like no tomorrow.

Looking at the service manual and the parts diagrams...

Ok, the clutch rod is exposed when you remove the sprocket cover. It is pushed by the clutch camshaft that is part of the sprocket cover assembly. It's attached and moved by the cable. You should be able to see the part of the linkage exposed on the outside of the sprocket cover move when you pull the clutch lever.

There isn't a ball bearing, but there is a "CAP, CLUTCH PUSH ROD" $4.87 that is shown in the parts diagrams for the clutch assembly, but it's not mentioned in the assembly and disassembly instructions of the service manual. It fits over the end of the clutch push rod, and rides against the clutch camshaft in the cover assembly that turns and pushes on the clutch rod. Actually, the service manual looks like it skips the sprocket cover assembly completely.

If it were missing, the clutch could very well act the way it is now. Even if it isn't missing, this is probably where the problem is located. Something about this linkage isn't working correctly. My best guess.

Like I said, you should be able to see the little lever exposed on the outside of the sprocket cover move when you pull the clutch. If it does move, the problem is under the cover. I hope this helps. Problems with the clutch are common after removing the sprocket cover.

Note; the little lever on the sprocket cover where the clutch cable attaches, is shown backwards in at least one diagram in the service manual.

http://rapidshare.com/files/12145854/GSX-R600-750K6.pdf

The shop manual, if you don't have one already.

Was the shift rod exposed when you took the sprocket cover off? Was there a ball bearing at the end of the shift rod? Without that ball bearing, the clutch won't move much. I've no idea if this is the design on the GSX, it's just something I've seen happen before.

No problem... although the not so fun part is trying to figure out why it does that...

There is a known time offset issue with the server and/or software. Casper is aware of it.

ummmm, could I borrow your CC for a little bit?

5000 Miles actual, nice round number - March 10, 2008 to Dec 5, 2008 - 47.04 mpg -

John Lennon died in '80. That is his son Julian.

You are correct, I am up way too late. Now edited...

The new Google search of Life magazine for "motorcycle".

Tons of historical pics, mostly black & white.

http://images.google.com/images?q=motorcycle&q=source%3Alife

Actor Richard Grieco wearing leather jacket on motorcycle w. actress/girlfriend Kimber Sissions on route to book party at Earl McGrath Gallery.

Singer Julian Lennon on Yamaha motorcycle.

I think Max has some wood for the Knievel.

I bet you had one of these huh?

This one is selling for 117 to 146 bucks on British eBay. Sell it.

just follow the HD's the first time.

geez.... I didn't even see a Hardley, they were all Yamaha and Suzuki cruisers. If we are talking about that big Hocking ride with the near 60 bikes and 3 and a half wrecks...

Actually, a small group or solos for a reconnaissance of the route, on the day before would be really cool...

I wind up solo in Hocking on Fridays, I got Fridays off.

(bonus points for using a 4 syllable word)

Enough talk, she died...

Pamela Stepp, 46, was the motorcycle passenger. She was ejected in the crash. She was transported to Mount Carmel West Medical Center in life-threatening condition with a head injury. Pamela died from her injuries close to 1:55 p.m. Tuesday.

http://www.nbc4i.com/cmh/news/local/article/motorcycle_car_crash_broad_street_closes/11203/

By Donna Willis

Web Content Coordinator

Published: December 29, 2008

COLUMBUS, Ohio—A car-versus-motorcycle crash closed West Broad Street Monday evening.

NBC 4 reported with the FAST FACTS.

The crash was at West Broad Street and Burgess Avenue in the Hilltop area. It happened close to 6:15 p.m.

A female was transported to Mount Carmel Medical Center. She was the motorcycle passenger.

Other crash-related injuries remained unknown currently.

Broad Street reopened to traffic at 8:40 p.m. or so.

http://www.10tv.com/live/content/local/stories/2008/12/29/story_crash.html?sid=102

Woman Critical After Motorcycle, Car Collide

Monday, December 29, 2008 7:09 PM

Updated: Monday, December 29, 2008 11:19 PM

COLUMBUS, Ohio — A woman riding as a passenger on a motorcycle was in critical condition Monday night after a car collided with the motorcyle on the west side. Pamela Stepp, 46, was thrown from the motorcycle by the force of the collision, 10TV News reported.

Police said Stepp suffered a life-threatening head injury from the crash, which occurred around 5:45 p.m. at the intersection of West Broad Street and Terrace Avenue.

Stepp was transported to Mount Carmel West Hospital in critical condition.

She was riding on a motorcycle driven by Glen Stepp, 40, who was treated for a fractured wrist and hip.

Police identified the driver of the car as Frank Holzapfel, 20.

Alcohol is not considered a factor in the collision, which remains under investigation.

Insulate between the shield and the pipe, at the clamps and/or bolts, to prevent heat transfer to the shield.

Edit: this carbon shield looks pretty slick, but expensive. $55 for the small 4 inch, and $60 for the large 6 inch. It's for a S'wing, heh.

http://www.scootertrap.com/SilverWing600.htm

Targa heat shield for sportbikes: $54

Have you considered chicken wire shoved in and around the pipes? heheh...

Yeah, I've done that...

ummm, mil-spec method is to make new holes for the items, and use water-proof grommets in the holes around the wires. First type is for round holes, but if the wire and connectors won't fit through the hole size specified to be cut, you have to go to the other type, that uses a square hole instead of a round hole. The square hole can be cut on the edge of the existing big hole on the back of the enclosure. It can be a bit messy if surface is curved, or if the pop in cover doesn't want to work with this. Some black silicone RTV can finish it off, the pliable type that can be peeled off later. A good shot of silicone spray or silicone grease will often be enough to keep water away. Paint won't stick to silicone. A third alternative is using the edge protector type grommet, a custom make-to-fit thing. It fits the edge of any cut hole like the edging on a window trim or stuff. That can be made any size to fit any bundle of wires. Heyco was the brand of grommet used for everything I can remember. I swear I remember another type using a D shaped hole at the edge of an opening, but I can't find that type.

http://www.heyco.com/index.html

http://www.heyco.com/sitemap.html

Do these ballasts require cooling? I've seen some mounted in and around the fork triple tree, out in the airstream. I guess those are water-proof.

Edit: you can also get plugs to close the same holes when you don't need them anymore.