AudiOn19s

I"ll totally be there to watch, NASCAR is my secrect redneck obsession in life. You guys don't give the good old boys enough credit. Yes there are some in the Nationwide series that are completely out of their element but that's where the road course ringers come in. I'm thinking pole will be in the :27-28 range. Qualifying at the Glen last year Nationwide series cars were about a dead heat with grand-am GT cars. GT cars qualified in the :25's last year at Mid Ohio. Glen is more of a HP track than Mid Ohio though so I'm docking 2-3 seconds on the back side of the track where the heft will outweigh the power advantage for the NNS cars.

Similar shifters have been around for about a year now but they use a sequential tunnel mount shifter vs paddles. Still have to use clutch with all of them http://www.hardmotorsport.com/CAE-Shifter-Porsche-996-997-Cayman-and-Boxster-10013ST-10013ST.htm

we bailed long ago on plans because we also felt it was going to be a cluster getting into and out of the track, once Schumacher announced his retirement (again) I really really wanted to try to find a way to go but it's just too much bloody money for a man trip and the wife has zero interest in going. Totally jealous you get to go, even with the cluster it's still going to be an amazing experience.

My .02 would be despite wanting something different, different = unproven and underdeveloped which will lead to you working on the car all of the time instead of working on your driving. The exception to this would be an already built and developed current track car like Tinman's RX-7. I started off on bikes and chose something boring and reliable. Same with cars, my M3 was about as standard issue as it gets, only adjustable parts on the car was front sway and camber plates which meant I didn't tinker just drove and learned. That car never broke on me and that was driving too and from the track in it. Same with the GT3. Granted its not cheap but other than a coolant fitting all I do is get in and drive while I'm at the track. All too often I see guys who have REALLY fast track cars who are always working on them, breaking them, fiddling with stuff on the car and going slow on the track because there is no reliability in platform leading to very little track time and no consistency to learn with.

Used them for a couple things in the past, good people and know their stuff

Is that a denim button down?

What is it and what power is it supposed to make? Been an awefully long time since I really broke down slips so I'm sure people with better opinions could chime in but that doesn't look too hard to believe for something with big power that just doesn't hook or is launched very conservatively. My old V8 S-10 was similar...think the best '60 time I ever recorded in the thing was 1.8 but it would come alive like that in the second half with hitting 200hp shot of spray around the 330 mark. That thing would run high 11's all day but only at 118-120mph (estimated 600hp with spray) That MPH indicates something with LOTS of power though coming out of the start that soft, What's your E55 trap at like 122-123?

How much do most turbo's weight? ...please don't really answer my question

Fenders detach? Or fenders clear doors on very low cars? How long are the ramps?

Technicalities aside (not original owner, wheels painted), here's my take. You have a premium forged (expensive) wheel using the latest in technology to make it the lightest and strongest wheel possible but it's not intended for "competition" use??? To me Competition use is RACING, with really sicky rubber, possible car to car contact, etc. Drivers Education events are not competition in my opinion. Further, this guy was running standard summer performance street rubber on the car. The loads put on the car are nothing more than he could have done on the street. Bottom line that wheels should not have failed in that setting and if I owned a set of similar whees I'd be rather worried next time I took a corner hard on the street.

After riding with you last time I totally agree, go Intermediate you'll be fine.

Glad to see I wasn't the only one that had a "Da fuk???" moment when I read that. My friend sold an Areana Red 993TT recently that was nice but had paint work and by no means was a top of the market car and he got nearly $70k for it. I don't even think you can touch a 993 turbo for under $50k unless it's in a salvage yard. 964 Turbo (965 technically if we're talking turbo in that body) are around 35-45k for a 3.4 car but if you want the 3.6 turbo (the Bad Boys car) they are $50-70 too.

Most of the clubs (not all) are using either of the two sites below for their events now which makes it much easier to find upcoming events. clubregistration.net motorsportreg.com Groups like Chinh, 10 10ths, MVP track time, are more expensive than others but provide the best track time as well. Also, BMWCCA, PCA, etc generally offer Friday lapping days prior to their standard weekend schools for instructors and qualified solo students. I got 4 full hours of track time this past Friday and my brother in the student group got 3.5 hours. Andy

+996

I was leaving this as a possible last date on my calendar but I corded my tires at Mid Ohio this past weekend so I'm officially done for the season. Anyone on the fence, Shawn runs a great event, TONS of track time, laid back atmosphere and lots of great people to talk with and learn from. Andy

Porsche will print a Certificate of Authenticity for any car they've ever produced. It's $125 I think, it's not an official window sticker but it's an official statement from the company of the car as it was ordered, all the options and the final price of the car. My wife gave me one for my old 996 C2 for Christmas after I bought the car. Haven't done it for the GT3 yet. Search "Porsche Certificate of Authenticity" and you should be able to find out pretty easily how to get one. And

ummmm M5 does big burnout and gets beat to 100 after gaining no traction out of the hole. Not taking anything away from that Tesla it's impressive just not my bag.

how many laps on a track before it overheats at those power levels?

Damn man...we were just talking about how long that car's been around too. Sorry to hear about this. Andy

They make D/A attachments to hold a clay bar too, I've never used one though. Key with the Nonoskin is use a shit ton of lube. I probably used too much my first couple tries because I was scared to death to see what the result was after using it. I sand with D/A when I need to though so at least the comforting part is that I know I"ll be able to fix whatever. My personal take is I don't care what you've got and how much lube you use using both these pads and a regular clay bar will slighly marr whatever surface you're working on. I don't like to clay anything unless I'm prepared to polish it afterwords or it's extremely hard paint. Same goes for the nonoskin, I used it on a hard GM clear via D/A and didn't really detect any marring but I wasn't looking that hard for it either and the paint was a light color. I still assume it marred it slightly but not much. If in doubt use by hand but still expect that even by hand it'll cause a slight amount of marring if you're really looking closely for it. It's not going to look like you just sanded the car or anything but it will likely induce a small amount of damage that will need to be correted with some polishing work. Benefits still outweigh the risks, removing those contaminants and following up with a light polish will make for much more healthy paint than leaving them in there to get worse over time. Andy

+1 on these. Been using for a couple months and really enjoying them

Little clarification, Whatever exhaust goes on the car will be on there the whole track season...so May - November including being on there for all of my street driving during that time. Only for the limited use over the winter months will I consider putting the stock exhaust back on. Too much work otherwise. Have to have some sort of noise reducing properties I drive this thing to and from the track and to work once or twice a week. I have a sound clip of the Sr. Farkas mobile on my phone and it's hot...2.5" is where it's at for these things and fabspeed only makes 2.25"...not to mention I want to ditch the side mufflers compeletely as they are extra weight and hold heat right next to the rear tires.

I mean...I really don't want bright red Cherry Bomb's hanging out from under the darn thing...but I would totally rock a cherry bomb sticker on the window just to piss people off if I did that. I'm running some jank-ass looking home-made muffler bypass pipes on the car with no exhaust tips on them right now. 2.25" tips hanging out those exhaust cutouts in the bumper looks stupid. I'm inherantly cheap when it comes to certain things. If I can put $40 mufflers on the car instead of $400 mufflers and get basically the same sound reduction and performance with the penalty being maybe a few lbs because one is mild steel vs stainless I'll probably do it. When it comes to mods for the track I'm more of a function over form guy. It's more than likely every year after track season is over I"ll swap out and put the whole stock exhaust back on the car. I started this thread to see if there are more downsides that I'm possibly missing...it's been probably 12 years since I shopped performance mufflers.

This is the basic design we're dealing with. This is the whole exhaust after the headers, has to tuck up behind the rear bumper. As you can see there's very little room to work with, these "style" of mufflers are all I can work with in this space. http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/exhaust1.jpg http://i136.photobucket.com/albums/q192/ZainoDetail/exhaust2.jpg

Given a similar design of mufflers there's prices all over the board depending on materials, name brand, etc. What I'd like to discuss is if there will realy be much of a difference in performance or is the price pretty much just dependant of brand, material and weight. Here's what I'm looking at. My exhaust project for the GT3 will likely incorporate 4 "bullet" style mufflers. I could go with 2 for less weight but I'm getting rid of the cats in doing this project and I'm awefully afraid of how loud the end result is going to be. It's not an every day driver it currently ONLY has cats on it (400 cell) and no mufflers, but I fear replacing the cats with only 2 bullet style mufflers will still be a horribly loud mess. Back to the mufflers: Starting at the bottom price wise and working up. I'd love to hear opinions on if any of these is going to be a better performer, or if the advantages are strictly in other areas. I"d pay a little more for less weight but many of the cheaper options don't list weight so I'm not sure how much I'm really giving up with them weight wise. All mufflers below are 2.5" diameter. The shorter the better for my application, anything with over a 12" body is going to be a tighter squeeze. Cherry Bomb: $34.99 - 8" body, 12" overall length - 4.05lbs http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/500/545/545-87522_3.jpg Jegs Flowpack Muffler: $39.99 - 12" body, 18" overall - No weight listed http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/500/555/555-30291_2.jpg Pypes M-80: $44.99 - 14" case length (might be pushing it on length) T304 stainless http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/900/958/958-MVR200S.jpg Dynomax Race bullet Muffler: $64.99 - 16" overall - no weight listed, 409s stainless http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/200/289/289-24246.jpg Kooks Race Series: $68.99 - 14" overall - no weight 304 stainless http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/500/579/579-R250-14.jpg Flowmaster Outlaw series: $114.99 - No dimentions, no weight 409s stainless http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/300/389/389-815425.jpg Magnaflow Performance Race Series: $129.99 - 6" body - no weight http://www.jegs.com/images/photos/600/642/642-14158.jpg so the above are the standard offerings. THEN there are the ones listed below Vibrant Aluminum Race muffler: $112.95 - 14" overall length - 1.6 lbs T6061 aluminum http://vibrantperformance.com/catalog/images/12903_WEBS.jpg Finally...in the race world Burns stainless lightweight mufflers are pretty much standard issue. These can be found on most of the grand-am prototype cars and other big road racing applications. I'm not sure if they are truely "better" though, although the ability to re-pack them etc would be nice for down the road. Burns Race Muffler: $271.00 - 12" overall length - 1.77 lbs stainless **Spendy but worth it?** http://www.burnsstainless.com/images/products/display/IMG_1968.JPG Burns 2 Stage muffler: $459 - 17" overall 3.89lbs **obviously I KNOW I'd only need 2 mufflers for my desired sound level if I went this route...but man $460 per muffler hurts** http://www.burnsstainless.com/images/products/display/2Stage.jpg Thoughts? Andy