fungames43232

It's not big power for turbo busa's but it's enough for me. Some of the turbo guys run 500+. I ride this thing to work and around town. I don't want to have to run race gas(too expensive). Pump gas with water injection is the way to go for 300 HP. I can ride straight from work to the track LOL.

305.61 HP 175.33 Torque. That is running it extremely safe on the top end.

Just an update. The bike is finally fixed. The issue ended up being a bent throttle body blade on #1 cylinder and the TB sync was way out of wack. The rich spots were a very strange symptom. Another way the issue was found was when #4 plug was unplugged the motor did not change.

Thank you, I am not running meth, just water and alcohol to keep the freezing away. I'm not worried about the 17 A/F spikes. I've already tuned them out. What I do know is as I roll on the throttle, I get a ton of fuel around 6k. Im already pulling a ton of fuel out.

Awesome, thank you

I have some extremely rich spots in my bike that can not be tuned out. I have tried everything I can think of to check. Even with -30% + in the power commander I am still getting down in the 10's for A/F. Bike is a 00 busa stock with spacer plate. RCC Stage 2, microtech, power commander, aquamist, HK BOV, logging from an MTX-l and SSI-2. I did unplug the power commander and microtech and still going rich. I at a loss and looking for a shop that works on turbo bikes. Any ideas?

Thank you

Looking for someone in Ohio that can tune MicroTech's. Any recommendations?

Thank you. Even worse, when I got back with the trailer I was able to drive it up on the trailer like there was nothing wrong.

My busa died at dyno day time for a new fuel pump.

I'll be there on the new old busa

I have always had a hard time finding keys until I went to Ace Hardware in Reynoldsburg. I could not believe they had the blanks for my busa. In addition they have a machine to program keys.

Always use the lowest octane you can without pinging. That said my old Busa loved the CAM2 leaded gas, but she had high compression pistons, decked head, thin gasket, Brock's exhaust and a sip of funny gas. I have a stage 2 turbo Busa now and run 93.

OMG I just happen to have his phone number LOL. Got his name from a dealer here in town that told me he did engine builds. I didn't know he also worked on suspension. Thank you.

Well I think I managed to get a rough tune on the suspension. I used a triple stand to fully extend the front forks and get a measurement. Then used a tie wrap around the fork to find how much sag was there. I did find she is a little weak in the knees up front since I bottomed out the pre-load and still had 30mm of travel. As for the rear, the beast was too heavy for me to pull up on side stand (or I'm just weaker in my old age). So I flipped my pegs and put the bike on jack stands (with the help of my front and rear stands). This allowed for the initial rear measurement. The back only had 10mm of sag So I adjusted away and was able to make it 30mm also. I know the front is suppose to be 25, but until I get some stiffer springs, shes going to have to live at 30. Can't wait for this snow to stop so I can take her out and play with compression and rebound.

Think we might need a couple extra pair LOL......busa's are heavy to lift up on their side stand. Maybe we can help eachother out.

Brock's is very hard to get work done. I called them once for a dyno run and they said they are pretty much out of the service gig.

Anyone know somewhere I can get my suspension set? Prefer a place with some knowledge about drag. I know somewhat how to do it but I don't have anyone to help.

I edited the main post, I had it at 12k

xmas gift for someone, price drop to 10,900.

Ttt

ttt

I have used it, but the problem is it can only write, so your existing map would be gone. It has a base hayabusa map, but if you are already tuned, it would throw off your map. If you are not tuned and just stock you could just write the base map and disable all the limiters.

I love the Smith stuff. Most bikes with nitrous run lower Hp on top when on motor because they have to run rich and pull timing. If they don't they will blow the motor. Smith allows me to automatically switch maps when nitrous kicks in. This way I get max power on both motor or spray. Not to mention its better for the motor.

Thank you SAMBUSA. Yes you have. I've been at a few of the get togethers.