fungames43232

I was joking about the Shinko LOL.....I know it's the bike. 190 depends on which sprocket is on the bike. Yes there is a little bit of a power add to the bike. If you want to play the dyno game, do NOT run a Shinko. A used hard tire will give you a perceived HP boost on the dyno. This is why you can't rely on dyno numbers alone. If you really want a good dyno number go on a cooler, non-humid day and run an old bias ply tire.

As I said each have their applications. Most I have seen that drag use the Shinko. I would not trust a Shinko for knee dragging. The profile is all wrong.

I have seen broken retainers cause that. Might want to pop off the valve cover and cams to take a look. If you drop a valve, you won't be a happy camper. If you just have to replace a couple shattered retainers you will be ok. My 10 had 2 of them broken and was doing exactly what you are saying.

True, but you find them on sale quite a bit. I go mine when Hinds went out. 50% off. Gotta love it. Oh well, I don't have that bike anymore. Running a flat profile Shinko now. I can't turn anyways with the Brock's sidewinder and lowered profile, but I can sure make it to 190+ really really quick ....Lets see someone's Dunlop or PP keep up with my Shinko in a roll on. My guess is if some can keep up, they are running a Shinko too.

Would someone be willing to re-time my cams to 105 in 107ex. Currently sits at 103 in 105 ex. I know how to do it, I have the tools, but found out I have a hernia and I'm not suppose to turn wrenches. I hate getting old! Shouldn't be that hard of a procedure.

Shinko's are great tires for their purpose. They are soft, sticky and have a flatter than normal profile. More tire on the DRAG track means more traction. If you want to go knee dragging and your on a budget Conti Sport attack work well. If your not on a budget, just like everyone says PP's are great.

I used the SWAG approach.

Ha got it. Well sorta. I cheated and used a micro switch cause I couldn't figure out how the starter wiring worked.

Ok so now I can no longer start the bike no matter what wire I hook up. Im at a loss

There is nothing in the re-flash unfortunately. You can build a 1st gear lock out, but I just wanted to use the starter button past 3rd. My goal is to make it to 170 in the 1/4 mile. I'll never be able to compete with the other bikes at trails, but good enough for me. As for turbo......well I had thought about it but decided against it for reliability reasons. If you configure nitrous correctly it's safe...ie no nitrous when the rev limiter sets in, A/F below 12 and yes only at WOT.

Hey I'm starting to get closer.

Yep I'm taking out the pciiir and flashing the ecu this way it auto switches to the nitrous map. Not hard if you are okay with spraying 1st gear. all I need to do is to figure out the on off switch and which wire gives me 12v when the starter Byron is pushed

Ok I'm about to give up trying to figure this out. I would much rather give someone here some money than a dealer. Here is what we have. I currently have nitrous on my starter switch(I didn't wire). I am getting rid of that set up and going with an ECU set up with a smithbybusa wire. I know how to hook it up if I was just going to go with the smith setup, but I want to still run it through the starter button, so I don't spray in 1st and 2nd. I have the bike apart with access to the wires. If someone can figure this mess out let me know how much you want.

guess Ill have to have someone teach me LOL....When does everyone go? Weds or Fri?

Still have the brake pads, I forgot they are for a CBR. I had the upgraded calipers on my 10

I've seen this on dirt bikes. Check your timing and make sure the flywheel is tight tight tight. Actually I caused this issue on my sons dirt bike because I knocked his PU coil out of place and didn't tighten the rotor enough.

I know this is not what you want to hear, but I would recommend learning on your own. With all my stuff I believe you should know more about it than a mechanic. Just think, you just need to know your 14, a mechanic needs to know all bikes. We are all here to help if you need it. We all started somewhere.

Ill be there as soon as I install my new ECU and rotor. No more PCIII's for me. I'll be running dual fuel maps, dual timing curves, and nitrous window switch, all straight from the stock ECU.

My vote is excellent job!

I just wanted to share my experience with DynoTune Motorsports. I have had 2 bikes tuned by Brian and I was more than happy with the results. Mind you I am not a racer (yet) but the tune felt great to me. My first bike was a ZX6R. This bike used a power commander and a DJ hub with nitrous. Brian tuned 2 maps for this bike, one for motor and one for Nitrous. Both maps worked flawless. With a flip of a switch I had a 135 hp on a 600cc bike (small shot through the filter). My second bike was a ZX10 complete with full akropovich exhaust, thin head gasket, racing cam, PCIII and ignition module. Brian tuned both the PCIII and ignition module. Again felt great to me. I then traded the 10 for a busa. The person I traded the 10 to IS a racer. As soon as he got home he took the 10 to a race shop who tunes drag bikes. The tuner said is one of the best tunes that he had ever seen on a bike and would not touch it. Exact words were the A/F was spot on. I know I have read mixed reviews on Brian's work, but I can say from multiple experiences that in all cases my bike felt smoother, had better throttle response, and when a performance tuner says the same thing that is good enough for me. Brian if you happen to see this for some reason you have a Busa coming your way.

yea I can see my 9yo running all over the place LOL.

LOL I'm a single dad with 3 kids. I would live there if I could.

Your calling my girl ugly dems fightin words LOL......kidding Thanks

Quick shifter and brake pads sold to attackpainter.

Attack painter hit me up first on the quick shifter.