Bubba

If you don't get any takers on hooning it around CC area, think about rolling south and I'll meet you somewhere in Cinti and we can ride a few of the NKY roads. Lemeno.

Nice video and a spectacular November day's ride! If I may ask, who's the artist on the background track?

Whenever I go faster than 13 MPH, I just tense my abdominal muscles and create ass-suction to grip the seat...

Oh boy, here we go again! The ol' countersteer argument. Mods, get ready to move this to the "Oil" thread....

When I've visited, I've stayed here: Sheraton Chicago Hotel 301 East North Water Street Chicago, IL 60611 Right on the river/lake and within walking distance of nearly everything you'll want to see/do in the downtown area--parks, museums, pier. Ask for a water view (my preference) but there aren't any bad views. Very cool area along the River Esplanade with lots of bars/restaurants. A bit of a splurge, but you can call last minute and get discounted rates; just don't try to go during a busy convention week. Why stay outside of the downtown area and have the hassle of driving in and parking every day...As Loreal says, "You're worth it!" https://plus.google.com/107753058936437881920/about?gl=us&hl=en One last warning...Most of the downtown hotels charge an ADDITIONAL $35-$50 per day to park in their garage, and you'll pay to go in/out as well. You could prolly find a lot with a cheaper per diem, but less convenient and not as secure. Plan accordingly.

I would take an educated guess here an say it's prolly the same as for a car: if it falls under routine maintenance, you can take to anyone or even do it yourself as long as you can document that the work was done according to specs. As far as repairs under warranty or recall work, that would obviously fall under the dealer's umbrella.

Chicago, for sure! Not cheap by any means, but a vibrant downtown with tons of activities, places to eat, sightseeing and entertainment. A great city for a walkabout at any hour as a bonus!

Heard thru the 'hunter's grapevine' that this big boy may have been bagged by a little old lady in her Buick just a half mile from here last week. Damn shame if it's true....

So, would this make you feel any less stressed? Taken in my backyard, 100 ft from the porch, 3rd year he's showed up...

No. Yer a GOOD boy. You listened to yer mutha! Mom knows what's best for you... Nice pix, BTW. I'm jealous!

Dude, nobody pays NADA Retail for a bike in a private party sale. You'd be foolish to pay that from a dealer! NADA price is an average of all the regional dealer sales from the previous quarter, so you're looking at peak season prices as reported by dealers from 1-3 months ago. Plus, the value set for a used 2012 is likely based on a very small number sold of that model, so one or two high sale prices are gonna skew the number significantly. A used bike, end of riding season, priced at $10k? Not likely.

Spoken like a true Ducatisti.... I've always found it much easier to go bike shopping with other people's money, too!

^^^^ This ^^^ seems reasonable as long as 1) you're sure this is THE BIKE you want; and 2) you're sure that he is accurately representing the condition of the bike. Might want to get the VIN number from him and pay for a vehicle check on-line to make sure of it's history. Also, you might be able to have a local Duc dealer run the VIN for maintenance/repair/recall history as well. Good luck!

Gotta remember, even at a dealer...."Askin' and gettin' are two different things!" There's no such thing as a late-model vehicle that doesn't depreciate. The sooner it sells, the less they lose.

If he says he's listing it with a local dealer for $9800, my take is that's "asking". Figger any late-season buyer with a smattering of cohones is gonna squeeze the dealer down 10% minimum on a used bike, so now we're talking $9K minus the commission and he's lucky to net $8000. That fact plus the reality that every month, that newish bike of his is losing Blue Book value faster than his 401-K portfolio and I'd say your right in the ballpark at $7600-7800, especially if you factor in the hassle of a long-distance deal. It sure as hell ain't gonna be worth anymore money next spring... Last thought: It sounds like he's stuck with owing too much on it and is trying to get what he owes out of it. Don't make HIS problem YOUR problem! Prices may stay stable from now until spring, but there'll be ton more listed for sale then, too. You'll have a much wider field to choose from. Economy sux balls right now and will for some time to come. If you've got the cash and are a serious, motivated buyer, YOU ARE IN THE DRIVER"S SEAT!!!

This is true enough just about any time someone slings a leg over the seat of a motorcycle. However, there are more threads than you could read in a year on ADVRider from people who've done that kind of mileage in a week on everthing from a Goldwing to a Passport scooter! 700-1000 miles a day back-to-back-to....well, you get the idea. Hey, I don't get it and I wouldn't do it on a $10,000 bet, but that's me. I don't know the OP here, but maybe he likes the idea of maxing his mileage and pain be damned. If you do the trip as envisioned, you will definitely "see" a lot of the country, but I'd hazard a guess you won't be able to enjoy a lot of what you see to any great extent. As an example, I spent 14 days in Colorado this summer in the tiny rectangle of the state bounded by Denver-Colorado Springs-Montrose-Durango. I took two bikes--WeeStrom and DRZ400 with knobbies--and road highways, backroads, off-roads and single track, camped and motel-ed....and still didn't touch 10 percent of what's out there. That's how I like my adventure to be--by seeing a small area up close and personal. Not suggesting that should be what you strive for. Now that I've said that tho, I'd love to try to make a trip like you're thinking about just to say I did it!!! I always wanted to do the scenic tour of America on a bike, ride the Coast Highway, southwest desert, Pacific northwest, >>>insert scenic area of choice here<<<. If you've got the inclination and guts to fulfill your fantasy journey, go for it. Hell, this is the United States--if the SHTF for whatever reason, you'll never be more than a tank of gas away from a 3-star motel and a WalMart. Just remember: pics, or it didn't happen!!! Here's the link to my ride report from this summer on LocalRider: http://www.localriders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17189

Be aware that many of the high passes are still closed at that time of year, depending on the amount of winter snowfall. Here's a pic of the Going-to-the-Sun Visitor Center in early June. <a href=" " title="Going-to-the-Sun Road Helicopter Fly-Over - June 4, 2011 by GlacierNPS, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2398/5806258692_1a61973780.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Going-to-the-Sun Road Helicopter Fly-Over - June 4, 2011"></a> EDIT: Hmmm, well that didn't work, but you the advice is still valid. Highlight and right click on the http link to see the photo

You're asking the question every rider asks: What can I buy that lasts a long time, holds like glue in wet and dry conditions, and won't cost me an arm and leg? The answer: They don't make 'em....yet. Tire technology is SO MUCH better today than it was even 5 years ago. However, even the old bias ply tires from the 70s and 80s seemed to last longer than the new radials do now, right? Well, no one had a street bike back then that could put 140-165 RWHP down! And you couldn't rail in the twisties on a bias-ply like you can a radial. Ride hard with both your right hand and your brakes and your tire goes bye-bye real fast. That being said, if you're accurate in your description of yearly mileage and riding style, any of the dual-compound sport-street or sport-touring tires would work for you. Harder rubber compound in the center of the tread; softer rubber on the sides for grip. The aforementioned Mich PR2s or PR3s are great tires, but a higher-priced choice. Figure anywhere between 6000 - >12000 miles of life. I've heard good things about the Metzler Z8 Interacts as well as Pirelli Angels, too. My choice for aggressive street riding has always been the Metzler Sportec M3s--good to great all-season grip, nice feel with smooth ride and no tread noise, and reasonably priced for the performance/wear qualities. A set runs about $180-$200--not including mounting--and I would typically get about 3500-4000 miles (Kaw GPZ1100, 540#) out of them. Given that your yearly riding would give you 2-3 seasons out of them, I'd say they'd work for you, since it's a good idea to change tires out every 3-4 years anyway, whether they're worn or not.

Wait. I think may have found another clue... "It was about 12:45 a.m. She had gone to get her boyfriend a glass of Mountain Dew while her 4-year-old son got ready for bed ..... For a few moments, Harvey, 19, didn’t move." Basic math would suggest she's an early learner. Too bad she didn't finish the classes on common sense.

Couple of rolls of pennies. Copper (or whatever the hell they're clad with nowadays) is softer than the steel and easier on the tank. A dilute acid should also remove rust--phosphoric for sure, or the commercial product "Lime-Away"--but MAKE SURE YOU RINSE EVERYTHING real well when you're done. Use some baking soda to neutralize the residue after the initial rinse. I wouldn't use any of the liner products like POR unless you've got a leak.

As long as you vacuum bleed, you don't need to worry about whether the caliper is attached to the fork leg. As a matter of fact, I usually use a wedge to push the caliper piston all the way in BEFORE I bleed the line to make sure all the old fluid is flushed and that I get the maximum amount of fresh DOT4 into the system. NOTE: When you do this, make sure your master fluid level is low enough to allow the fluid from the caliper to backflow into the reservoir without overflowing!!! Once removed, the main thing to make sure of is that you hold the caliper so that the bleeder valve is UP to ensure all the air is expelled from the brake housing. I do agree with other posters that a 1/4"-drive socket--maybe using a universal joint or one of the wobble sockets--should be able to reach the bleeder valve, but I'm not familiar with your bike's set-up. DO NOT bleed this way using the tried-and-true method of pumping the master cylinder piston!!!

Good questions to ask at this time of year. It's true that dry leaves on pavement are worse than plain dry pavement; wet leaves on the road are MUCH worse than plain wet road. With respect to temperature--in general--the friction loss from cold pavement is due more to the tires themselves being cold and having lower coefficient of friction (same reason why racers use tire warmers prior to a race). Typically, tires that have been compounded for street use are safe to use in cooler temps and wet weather. If you are one who likes the sticky race compound tires for street riding, beware--those don't play well on the street in less than ideal conditions. In general, use more restraint when braking and cornering, keep your hooning down to a dull roar, and slow down and enjoy the colors of fall riding. We'll be cursing the cold and rain and sleet and ice and snow all too soon! Another piece of advice: get yourself some decent, warm, rain gear. Riding when you're cold, shivering and miserable not only sucks, but it's unsafe too. Check out online MC discount shops like Jaffrum for reasonably priced clothing on sale at this time of year.

Sunday morning pre-ride bump! Sun is out!

24 hour pre-ride bump... Gonna be purty in the woods!!!

Drc: Thx for the plug! And great pics, BTW. These roads are some of the best northern KY has to offer. You won't be disappointed, as long as we can stay ahead of the Sunday morning church folk.... When you came down, did you ride your FJR or the KLR? I usually take my Wee, but the rear tire is shagged, so I'll prolly take the Feejer and try to keep from wearing the peg feelers down to nubs. Looks like a great week for scootin'...