Bubba

I've got an '08 CBR as well, and have the factory manual that should have a wiring diagram. Send me a PM or email and let me know where you want to start looking and what parts you want a diagram for. Does anyone know if it's legal (i.e., not against copyright infringement) to scan and post a pic on this forum?

Prolly more than would care to admit to it. I was friends with this guy (remains nameless) for 30+ years--Vietnam vet, had a tough go in life, our families/kids hung out on weekends together--and he ended up divorced and in a financial bind. Asked if I would lend him cash for a reliable car so he could get to work. Long story short, it's been at least 4-5 years since he and I talked. He stopped paying, stopped calling, I've tried to get hold of him multiple times and no reply. A very expensive $2500 lesson! All in all, I'd say an "investment" of $50 to learn your supposed friend is a douche is a good deal...

What a great dog poop/dog barf picker-upper! Order me two!

Pretty much true. One ft-lb of torque means one pound of force applied to the handle at a distance of one foot from the axis of rotation (socket). Only problem I see is that you'll want to check the calibration across the entire range of adjustment. When you get to duct-taping that 150 lb dumbbell to the handle, be sure to account for the 75 lbs of duct tape!

I didn't read thru all the previous posts, but in case this one wasn't posted... Seen on a brand spankin' new Vette leaving a high-end business office park: EZ4U2NV

I assume that the tire specs for MCs are the same as for cars, so... 190 is the width profile of the tire = 190 mm. 50 or 55 is the percentage of sidewall height to width. Therefore, a 190/55 has approx 19 mm greater overall diameter (about 0.75") than a 190/50 tire. [190*0.50=95; 190*0.55=104.5; (104.5-95.0)*2=19 mm] You'd have to know the overall diameter of one of the combos to calculate an exact speedo correction, but I assume it's in the 2% or less range, i.e., at 70 MPH indicated, your actual speed would be approx 71.5 MPH. Not a big deal, since most of us do 10-20 over anyway...

Great battle for a podium spot! Nice riding! Too bad you got whacked, tho. Heal up quickly.

Speaking of 'sammich' I'm not a big fan of rain riding either, but I keep a couple of ziplock sammich bags in my riding jacket pocket (or in the storage compartment of the bike) so I can stick said cellphone/wallet in bags in the event of wet air falling on me. And if I ride once or twice a season in the rain, I find I don't actually have to clean the bugs off my bike as often....

Geek squad? Most def not! Old guy who had to be dragged kicking and screaming into the 21st century. Either retired or under-employed--haven't decided which. I mostly ride week days or shorter routes on weekends. Post up if you want to get together for meet-n-greet somewhere on the west side. Be great if we could get a group from Cinti to hook up for rides.

I definitely second the Revo2. Had 'em on an Isuzu 4x4 and they wore well, handled great with little road noise, and gave very good traction in both rain and snow. Good looking tire, too, for those who favor appearance as well as function.

Living the good life in Mack! Have your people call my people. Let's do this!

One of the great things about Cinti that you C-bus and NE OR folks don't have is the quick/easy access to some of the nicest twisties--located in NKY--in this part of the country. Gotta hit up SE OH and beyond into WV, PA, TN and NC to get anything better. And being 'underemployed/retired' means I can go riding during the day when most of the crazy cagers are locked up in their cubes! Now if I can just get all the old folks (older than me, of course!) into that government rehabilitation center (soylent green?) I'll be able to rail as fast as I want.

I hate to be picky, but there are several misspellings in your document. Most noteably, the word 'breaks' instead of 'brakes' is used incorrectly at least twice. Please resubmit the document to your proof-reader for correction prior to publication, so we have assurance that you are indeed, a detail-oriented lawyer. Sorry, I just had to...

Tecknix: Not a ton of OR people here in Cinti, or at least not a ton of active 'Nati riders on OR. We do, however, have easy access to W-A-Y better twisties in NKY than most of the rest of the state, so that makes up for it. Sent you a PM with more info. Ciao--Bubba

Can't/won't argue with anybody about Cinti drivers sucking at life, as well as most all drivers who feel the need to multi-task behind the wheel. I CAN, however, argue about the snarky fuctards on the "WEST SIDE" heading out 32....hate to burst yer bubble, but 32 is on the EAST SIDE. Only a small correction. Carry on.

Hey, not nice. I'm 60 and I'm not ghey! Old guys need love, too...

I'm kind'a partial to Metzler M3s for the road. They grip very well and wear OK. I got about 4500 mi out of a set on my GPZ1100 (heavier than your CBR). If you push 'em hard all the time, they do get a little triangulated--sides are softer than the center and wear faster if you're doing lots of twisties with heavy braking to set up for corners.

For Cinti/SW OH/SE IN/NKY riders... 5-6 old farts meeting at the AA Shell in Alexandria 9:45-10 this morning and rolling @ 10:15 sharp to ride the twisties down toward Mt Olivet. Mostly sport tourers and a couple of cruisers--all back roads--nothing insane but lots of fun at a brisk pace--approx 200-250 miles from start--lunch at Blue Licks SP--return 5ish. http://www.localriders.com/forums/showthread.php?p=144295#post144295

Title shouldn't be an issue. The police will basically help getting a title issued in your name if you're the winning bidder. The biggest problem with these auctions is that they tend to not be that great a deal when you consider you're buying "as is" with no opportunity to test/drive or even listen to it running usually. The auctioneer will tell you it runs or doesn't run, but there ain't no complaining or refunds once it's yours. I've been to several Sheriff's auctions here in Hamilton Cty and ALL the vehicles went for WAY OVER what I was willing to give for a 'pig in a poke'... Last time I went, there was an '06 CBR1KRR that looked clean, but I stood around for about three hours waiting till they sold the crap--and there's a bunch of that to wade thru--so I could bid on the Honda, and within 30 seconds of the starting bid, the price was over $6500 and going up. I turned around and left before the bidding was even done. Maybe if you're lucky, you'll be the only one there with the interest and the cash, but I'm betting you'll waste your time and be sorely disappointed with the final price. Just giving ya a heads up...

Talking about 'Mapping'... OK, I want to ask a question somewhat related to the OP's topic without hijacking the thread... I traded up from my '95 carbed GPZ1100 to an '08 CBR (obviously FI), have never owned or even ridden a fuelie prior to this and am having a bit of trouble getting used to the feel/response of the throttle. I do most of my street riding with the tach in the 3K-7K range, since only a deranged fool or Miguel Duhamel could use all the HP of this thing on the street. (FYI--I'm not a newb; been riding more than 4 decades, just mostly older sh-t.) So, what I notice is that the fueling is pretty 'digital', i.e., either 'On' or 'Off' in the lower RPM ranges, making it difficult to ride a smooth line in slower corners and in 35-45 MPH traffic. I also have ridden an FJR lately and while not as noticeable as on the CBR, it still has the low RPM on-off feel to it. Is this a typical characteristic of a FI bike? Is this something that an aftermarket map could be tuned to eliminate? Not looking for max HP or even a fatter torque curve here--just the exact opposite, call it better 'rideability' for real-world situations.

I'm no brake expert, but I would think that kind of drag would create a LOT of friction and heat with speed, esp X-way riding. Heat could end up cooking the fluid in the caliper and hasten the degradation of the lower end of the rubber brake line, creating a safety hazard. If it was my bike/my life, I would certainly have a qualified mechnanic take a look. Is it possible that the return orifice in the master cylinder is plugged? If the MC is malfunctioning, it could result in a build-up of pressure in the caliper and cause the symptoms you're describing. Good luck!

Stole this from the AFJ forum. Says it all... Scientists Discover Corona Tank Top Safer Than Leather http://www.obairlann.net/reaper/motorcycle/corona.html

Tough to diagnose if something/anything is wrong from the vid. Sounds pretty normal for a ring-ding. It would be helpful to check out a few things: Is the sound only when cold/hot? Does the sound change with engine temp/RPM/load? If the noise is most noticable when cold with no load and goes away (mostly) when warm/under load, I'd guess maybe worn wrist pin(s), or possibly some excess carbon buildup in the combustion chamber. From the pics, it looks like it'd be worthwhile to do the repairs, as it's a clean vintage smoker--not many of them left!

Wow...just wow! The interwebz can be so amusing. This thread needs 'jacking' so I gotta ask, "Where are all the SW ORs?" Almost no ride posts here--seems like C-bus and the NE are way more active. I lurk on the AFJ forum as well and I've been on a couple of their rides, but as was posted here previously they seem to take crashing as a badge of courage and almost a right-of-passage into the sport bike club. I like to ride fast (remember, fast is relative, esp when yer 60) but have no interest in rebuilding my bike for every second ride. Any Cinti locals/natives on OR?