oldschoolsdime92

Thems my stomping grounds!!

I like your thinking...a grill! :-)

That it does!!! Too bad they didn't hit rudy.

Well for now I'm building a box for the pioneer 10 I have. I am going to upgrade over the winter. If I can find a sub to work with the box, I am building now great. If not I will build another box over winter.

Phone really freaked out. See above.

See above^^

I'm looking forward to my box build. I'm just in great debate on ported or sealed. Ive got time and materials. I'll try ported first , and if I don't like it, ill go sealed.

I remember those. You had to splice the power wires together, because it had a big lead running from it, instead of a block you hooked power into.

I'd like to keep the sub price 300 or under. Maybe 600 for the sub/amp. I won't be replacing until winter. I know that's not a huge budget, but like I said I'm not trying to get real crazy.

I really haven't set one. All I know is I want to stay 4-600 watts, and one sub.

With this set up , I want somthing that sounds crystal clear. Like I'm sitting in the recording studio. Yes some spl is fun when I'm in a rap mood, but that's not too often.

For me it was planet audio vector 12s and a 1250d. A friend of mine had planet audio big bang 12s http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oCqUmzdcIls&sns=em

Those Fi's are intense! How is the sound quality?

I'm about 10 years out also. I just started researching again about a week ago to get caught back up with everything. Kicker stuff still seems to be decent, but for what your getting it seems to be very pricey. I always liked alpine headunits as well, and as yours did, mine was stolen.

I've looked at sundown,re, and alpine. I think sundown is going to be the choice when its all said and done with. I'm going to build my box this coming weekend. I think I am still going to go with the center setup just so I don't loose my jump seats. As you said, its hard to build the "perfect" box. I really dig the sundown sa 8 also. One thing that throws me for a loop is all of there subs have funny ohm ratings. The 8 has a a 3.36 ohm rating. Does that just get rounded to 4 or how does that work?

Well per the manufacturer I need 1.5 for a ported box. I can get 1.5 and still keep my jump seats. In the past I've always been partial to ported boxes, but never built one myself.

Rawlins, when I go to upgrade is there any particular sub/amp combo you would recomend? I used to be all planet audio and audiobahn, and it seems both companies are kind of low end these days. I have been looking pretty heavily at sundown audio, specifically the sax 125.2 amp and the E series 10.

I almost fell out of my chair over the monkey pic!

I could loose the jump seat on the passengerside and put the sub where the port is. I just was hoping to retain a factory look. I have the sub in a 1cuft sealed now, but its just sitting back there and doesn't look clean.

Donkason, thank you for your help! Heres my amp. http://www.fusionpakistan.com/Product-Detail.php?CatId=2&SeriesId=2&ProductId=27 Its just some stuff I have scrounged up, recently wanting to get back into the car audio hobby. When I was younger I started an SPL build with a wall of 3 audiobahn 15s, but I was broke young and dumb, and just took a shot in the dark on box building. Anyways. I have been using a program called winISD on this setup. It seems I can get a flatter response over a bigger frequency range with the ported box, vs the sealed. Heres a screen shot . ported sealed I posted this up before I found said software.The way I understand this software is that the redline is your flatline, and you want your sub to be as close to that flat line for as long as possible. This sub/amp combo I have now, won't be around for real long, but it got me going cheap. When I replace said sub and amp, I will be getting a sub that fits the parameters of whatever box I build. I want to stick with a 10 due to space. As for figuring air space, back in the day I always did BxWxH/1728. In my googling adventures on the interwebz that didn't exist in my world when I was playing with this crap before, I found this sweet little calculator that takes the material thickness in! http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/box_wizard.asp

I am getting ready to start my box build,and I think I want to go with a ported box. I'm not 100% on that yet but thats why I have come to you folks. I'm planning on building a box that goes between the two jump seats, and under one of them(with the port on the side of the box under the side) The sub will fire into the back of the cab, so its concealed from would be thieves. Heres my sub TS-W252R - 10" Component Subwoofer with 600 Watts Max. Power | Pioneer Electronics USA http://www.crutchfield.com/S-kIT4uwd4km2/p_130TSW252R/Pioneer-TS-W252R.html I want to build my box like this. The company that made this no longer produces it. So my questions are: How do I figure my port length? How do I go about figuring airspace on sucha funny shaped box? is this sub even suitable for a ported box? I've been out of the car audio world for a very long time, and I just always remembered that I prefer a ported box. I have no problem building a sealed box if it won't work with what I have.

We've talked about Vegas also.

Welcome from troy. You on the tipp force ?

Pmed

butera.. if your paying for aruba, im down! Until then, we are just broke newly weds!