Scruit

What?? No "Should have kicked it sideways" ??

Brown Trousers all round.

They she'll report about it over-emotionally on CNN.

I wear textile overpants over whatever I'm wearing to work. Jeans or dockers. The overpants come off in a few seconds when I get to my office and I'm ready for the work day.

The key is that the light was yellow when she crossed the stop bar. It turned red as she crossed the crosswalk. The way I see the video, the bus driver did NOT run the red light. The law does nto required you to stop for a yellow. Common sense? Another matter. Under ohio law, green = you may go if the intersection is clear. yellow = it's gonna turn red soon. red = do not cross the stop line. If you are in the intersection when it turns red then you continue through, because the other traffic cannot enter through their own green light if you are already in the intersection (see the green law). This is why you can enter the intersection on green or yellow and stage for a left turn. IF the ligth turns red while you are there then you complete your turn - side traffic cannot enter until you clear the intersection. The Ryder truck ran the red. The bus driver's ticket is bogus and would be easy to defend with this video. COTA rep = teh hawtness.

Damn succubus. </southpark>

Well I don't think the car is worth $3250, but I sure-as-shit know it's worth more than $100.

Car values are such bollocks. One source came back with $600 trade-in and $1,200 retail. KBB says ~$1,500 private party sale. NADA says retail is $3,250 dealer retail sale. Edmunds says the trade-in value of this car is $100 (yes, one hundred dollars), and "Excellent" dealer retail is $800. Who the heck is right? Well, I got time to find the right buyer.

Well, I've seen people askign anything from $1400 to $4500 for this car. Honestly, I think it'll be worth between 2200 and 2400 once the last few issues are fixed, but I'll probably have to be patient to find the right buyer who will appreciate the work that has gone into the car. Again, this is instead of renting, so if I drive it for 3 months then it's a free car to me. I don't mind taking a loss, but of course I'd like to sell it for as much as possible. If the dealer retail in this car is 1500 then I'd be in toruble asking for 2500.

My brother had a craniopharyngioma at age 10. He had a massive operation to remove the tumor. He's doing great these days. There is always hope. Good luck.

I ran over a rabbit in my car once - about 20 years ago. I saw it run out from the side of the road and under the wheels of the semi in front of me. I thought; "Smooshed." But it turns out the bunny made it across the road under the semi, then changed it mind and ran back out in front of me. I swear it sounded and felt like I hit a curb. I was doing about 40. And, more recently... (Start watching at 1:40) http://www.youtube.com/user/Scruit#p/u/46/fQ7Id1IvQ4k

Would hate to have her issue any ruling on MY briefs.

I was plannign on buying a beater and throwing it away (or donating it to Goodwill if it was reliable enough for their Good-wheels-to-work program), but every time I drive this car I'm amazed at how well it has been treated. I saw cars that were ten years newer for the saem price but that was because they all LBTS. This car is in better shape than the 1995 Grand Prix I donated to Goodwill 3 years ago, and that car is still being used by goodwill. Well, if I can get a CD player in there for under $100 then I'll do it. For me more than anything else. Hopefully in about 2-3 months I'll be cleared to ride/drive stick again and "The Gimpmobile" will be off to a new owner. We did the "spare car" thing for a while with my wife's old Grnad Prix but it never got driven so every time I DID drive it it needed new rotors from them getting rusted. Plus paying reg and insurance on a spare car was annoying.

Found this guy here: http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sumas-Media-Automobile-CD-MP3-Player-with-USB-Port/15410847 CD / FM /USB / MP3 for under $50? Just need the dash kit (1.5 din to 1 din) and the factory harness. I can get all that for well under $100. That would be worth it, definitely much easier to sell the car with a CD player in it...

I broke my ankle 3-4 weeks ago. Did it in really good with severed ligaments etc. Couldn't ride or drive my stickshift, still can't, gonna be 2-3 months until I can. So rather than renting for 3 months ($2500+) I bought an old '89 Buick Park Avenue and figured I'd drive it until my ankle was better and sell it for close to what I paid. Even if I make a $500 loss then that's 3 months of rental car for $500, can't beat that, right? Plus I work on cars myself so I can fix problems in the car that would be too expensive to take to a shop, maybe even turn a profit on the car? So I paid a total of $1800 for the car with the following problems... - Gas tank leaks. I put a new gas tank in there. - A/C didn't work. I recharged at after it passed a vacuum test, works now. - Power driver's seat didn't work. I replaced the switch, works now. - Headliner sagging. I took out the headliner, removed all teh old material and foam and installed new headliner fabric and put it back in the car. Looks like new now. - Engine was making a squeaking noise. Alternator bearings were shot, new alternator fixed that. - Automatic headlights didn't work. It was a cracked solder connection, took 2 mins to fix. - Seatbelt/headlight chime didn't work. Turns out the p/o didn't like seatbelts and the chime bothered him so it was simply removed. New chime module on order. - Gas line rusted/leaking. Replaced. Four outstanding problems: - Check engine light complaining about EGR valve. Going to clean the valve and check all the electrical connections to figure out where the problem is. Probably won't replace it though because it's about $200 and it doesn't affect the car's drivability. May tried a used EGR if I can get one cheap. - The car has a fiberoptic display that tells you if your lights are working. One brake light f/o cable is disconnected so I have to take out the cluster and reconnect it. - The central locking doesn't always make the doors lock/unlock. Electrically it's fine, but the locks are really stiff. I will pull out the door panels and lube the mechanicals. Same with front passegebr window - electrically it works, but is stiff. - The parking brake has never been used and siezed when I tested it. I got it unsiezed by wiggling the cables. I need to pull the hubs and lube the parking brake arms. I am going to do a full brake service this coming weekend. Foot brake works great, good servo assist and good stopping power. Has new brake lines. The good bits: - Excepting the above, everything works. This car has electric everything and every button/control/system works as designed. - The paint is in remarkable condition - just a couple of dollar-sized bits of peeling clearcoat. I have the equipment to spray it too, so I may get some advice from a trusted bodyshop I know and shoot new clear, making the paint perfect. - The interior is in great shape too. power seats all work and the trim is all clean, secure and there are no heat cracks in the dash. - The engine and trans are solid. So, with all this in mind, and understanding that I have about 2200 in the car now, I'm wondering how much more money I can put into the car before I reach the max value I could ever sell it for. Book value for "good" condition is about $2k. Once I have fixed the last few issues above I would put tha car as excellent condition because everything works, and all major systems have been checked/tested/repaired. So, my question is, with all this in mind, what do you guys think is the highest I could expect to get for this? I don't mind taking a small loss, but I don't want to compound that loss by investing money that I know I'll never get back. Second question: The car has the factory tape deck in it. Would it be worth spending a couple hundred bucks on putting a CD player in there? Would any of that value be realized on the sale (again, bearing in mind I'm at or slightly above the book value already)

I live on a 55mph road with tons of deer. I always drive that road at 30mph during the twilight hours. Seen too many deer carcasses to risk keeping up with the oblivious drivers doing 65.

Looks like the back of the car is being propped up by the bike? If so, I hope that means that the rider's legs are OK (if his legs were pinned they'd lift the car off the bike to remove them). My biggest fear on the bike is lower leg injuries*. When I raised my son's footpegs up for him to reach I made sure I raised them so his feet were higher than the bumper of a car so if we got t-boned his leg would be a littl bit safer. * = Typical minor bike injuries (ankle injuries from not wearing boots, road rash from not wearing good gear, cabbage noggin from not wearing a helmet) don't scare me so much because I've done all I can to mitigate that withi ATGATT for us both. If it happens it happens, but nobody can say I didn't do my best to be safe. My two biggest fears are getting t-boned and losing my lower leg, and getting run over by another vehicle if I part company with the bike in heavy traffic.

RIP Rider.

Deer = almost no warning. This video is me in the cage with my boy. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZZzeZqmQM00 I hated riding at night on the Vousia becuase the headlights sucked. I nearly hit a deer carcass on 71 and I had less than a second to react due to the crappy headlights. I was in the left side of the center lane, the carcass with in the right side of the lane. One second it was clear lane, next second it was big furry lump in the road, next second it was beind me. Missed it by just a few inches. Simply tno time to do anythign about it. It was about 5 seconds before the reality hit me that it would have sent me down at 75mph in a heartbeat. It was about 2 hours before the I could get off the bike due to the bunghole suction created by the extreme pucker factor. Haven't had the strompet out at night yet but I'm hoping it has better light coverage ahead.

Bump for update: MRI confirmed grade 3 sprain with complete tears of the anterior talofibular and calcaneofibular ligaments, plus partial tears of several other ligaments. I have an avulsion fracture and "bruised bones" from when the ligaments let go and my ankle bones smacked together. It's been about 3 weeks since the injury. Pain is gone but I can't walk on the ankle without the cast or brace. I'm still in an aircast and will be for another 3 weeks, with physio staring one week from now. After that I'll be in a smaller ASO brace (inside my shoe) for a couple of months. Can't ride or drive stick in the cast or the ASO brace. Knowing it will be at least 3 more months I'm spending time today putting sta-bil in the car/bike etc. I don't expect to get back on the bike this year much, if at all. It'd be october/november before the ASO brace comes off (if I heal quickly) but it could be longer. In the meantime I bought a cheap (automatic) car to get around in ($1400 '89 Park Avenue). When will the fun ever end?

My 7yo loves to ride on the back of my bike (see my avatar - that's me and him on my old Volusia before I bought the wee-strom) Unfortunately I broke / sprained my ankle and my riding season is done. We'll be back next year though.

1.5 acres is not bad for mowing. I have 2 and I can mow it all in 45 minutes (17hp Yard Machines 42" mower with 44" Swisher trailmower attached.

Are we talking about Big Ben or Little Ben?

SSSHHHH! I was just trying to get the poor girl a job.

Short black-haired chick in the OSU shirt? She's an out-of-work nanny.