XChris1632X

honda marysville is a joke. if you have time sometimes go into the bike side and look at the damn markup on those things. and they dont deal worth shit. my girlfriends cousin is the service manager there, and ive been going in there since they opened. i was going to buy a waverunner their but not for what they want over msrp.

well im in PA at wyotech right now im painting in refinishing. i did the crazer tonight and it came out decent the place didnt have as bright of colors in stock as i wanted but i made it work. ill be doing crytal fx and candies monday. their pearl basecoats are bad ass and the speed clear is even more bad ass and best of all their products are very compatable and work well with other companys. PPG in the case. i mixed the base coat with ppgs 885 reducer, used ppg dcu 2042 speed clear on one, used ppg sealer, and it came out quite nice. the crazer is a lot like everyone elses version of marbalizer in their pictures they just texture it with other objects than saran wrap. I used latex gloves and swirled it around and it flowed quite well. in my opinion the crazer is better than marbalizer because it seems to have a lot more pigments with much more defined look, it flows alot better and carries a real marble effect, and comes ready to spray rather than having to worry about mixing. so far i am sold and 100% satisfied with alsa corp.

yeah thats them im getting some crystal fx and candies tomorow. ill try to host pics somewhere and get them on soon. ive been custom painting mailboxes and a couple bikes

just wondering if anyone here is into any kind of custom painting. or anyone good in our area. im just getting into it, i have some work and i have pics but i dont have a host for them. im working with a company now about chroming non metal parts. its actually not chrome but has a very comparable shine, if not better and you can apply to anything you can basecoat paint. and yes they have already painted whole cars and yes it looks like shit. but i want to try some wheels. id like to see what the chrome paint looks comparable to real chrome and the difference in price. Plus it would be a lot lighter.

+1 for FATE a little pricey but their colors are amazing. my ex's tat looks brand new after almost 4 years and they are great people.

another vote for z-tech they were great i asked him how much to rebuild my super coupe aod and he said he would not only rebuild it but build it stronger than my tci streetfigher aod was and a 2900 converter for about 1000$ when i went to pay for it it was $1056. he was right on with a price and took a whole 3 days.

jsaneon- id tell him but im over here in PA at wyotech now. he attends the same classes as i do and is originally from maryland. there is 4 or 5 srt4s around here 1 stage 2 and the stage 3 and a shit load of sti's and wrxs around. there is supposedly 1 435 whp sti and ive been chasing him down to really see what he can do.

in another 20 years that might be at barret jackson as long as someone doesnt buy it and beat the shit out of it and drive the ass off of it. it will probably take a lot more money than that to get it reliably streetable. considering those seals probably wont want to hold all of the fluids. and if i had 100k to spend on a vehicle id sure as hell want to drive it.

those srt4s impressed me. i took a ride in one tonight for the first time and then i had to run him. he had the stage 3 kit with methanol injection.

Never been registered. and i want it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buick-Grand-National-GNX-4A007272756_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6137QQitemZ4613706309QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

is it the same one that is in indiana, PA i here a lott of shit about them around school. they are like 15 mins from me they were going to let us have a dyno day for cheap though.

i know they are a direct swap for the v6 stangs of the early 90s but i dont know how much of a different the new sixxers are.

send it all up to wyotech in pa. the instructors in the trim and interior class can do some sick things. we also have some of the best metal workers i have ever seen.

whats all this stuff about plain city. as long as i have lived there, as small as it is, and as long as i have been on CR, i have never heard anything going on out my why. someone please elaborate

a freshly painted quarter doesnt mean squat if you have to replace it. you will have to weld in a lot of areas and the paint has to be stripped. and personally i wouldnt want to be the one to try to blend paint from the welds down. number 1 its black. if i was doing that and replacing it(which i wouldnt, it is too easy to fix) i would be blending that most of the way down the door.

is there any way to get our member numbers back. it was always nice knowing that i was here in the early days being number 610 i think. i liked having the member numbers.

i accidently voted for donations but i like the privilages thing. i guess it makes me feel special so i vote for the optional fees.

z-tech just north of dublin. they took my super coupes tranny out, rebuilt it stronger than my tci streetfighter, put a 2900 rpm stall conv. in with a shift kit and put the tranny back in the car for a grand. that trans was bullet proof the rest of the time i owned it.

he is actually towing the car up as we speak. he just called and hes a half hour away from me. we have yet to start it because he was in such a hurry to leave. so i just want to hear this damn thing. is it have a nice lope to it? he said it was like 110 lobe seperation

yeah we have been down this road before. we talked about the whole thing at jegs last summer

a very good friend of mine is the one who bought it from you. i have talked to you about it before. his name is josh dematteo, for his 95 formula. yeah we just now put that bastard in. if that tells you how much this car has ran in 4 years. didnt you sell it to him for like $100

im not new to nitrous but i am new to tuning wet kits. i will be getting dyno time in but not till spring. i want to somewhat tune it now and i would like to run it wet but the instructions recomend jets that just make the car run like shit. i dont know where to start. i need to retard about 2-3 degrees and i already run tr6 plugs.

2000 yellow and black old school looking bike with drag bars, drag pipes, grips. sissy bar, forward controls, dyno jetted with k&n filter, and screaming eagle filter package, and plenty of chrome. very nice bike that i hate to get rid of but im at wyotech and cant pay for it. someone help me. $8,900 obo

im up at wyotech in blairsville right now and come this weekend my project car will be here. first with the car. it is a 95 formula m6 with fuel pump, exhuast, clutch, blaster coil, 1.6 rockers and custom ground nitrous cam(from what im told it is anthonys old cam from the camaro). i have quite a bit of mods planned but first is the gas. i have a nitrous works wet system for it. now it has ran on juice before but was usually ran dry. im still not 100 percent sure about specs on the fuel pump yet. i want some opinions on things like running it wet or dry. i cant decide. from what i was told the directions had fuel and nitrous jet specs but the car ran like shit when the recomended jets were ran. also the cam just went in so never been ran on nitrous in this car. i am thinking of running 100 shot. should i go bigger? now i only have full throttle switch and adjustable fuel press. reg. no safety switch or window switch. note these will be coming but i want to run this as safely as possible. what should i do with timing and such things like this. also i already have some tr6 plugs. come march i will have a chance for dyno runs and tunning when i get into chassis fab and engine building, but i want to get an early start. feel free to throw out some advise.

i know its a lot of money but i love everything about it. a little spray and ill have all the power i want plus an aluminum block, dry sump, fuel injected, 427 small block instead of the 383 everyone else has now. Mothapucka- its going into a 3rd gen not a newer one. the one in my signature. it probly wont be for another couple a years but hey theyll be cheaper.