wagner

I am going to post pictures when I get home. I really don't understand what this man wants...

Keep the trolling and other crap out of here, no more warnings

No, you have to complete the cruise without stopping.

I talked to Chuck this weekend, Big 3 still has 2 trailers for sale. http://www.big3racing.net/ Give them a call and ask for Chuck.

We got the shots in about 10 miles with me shooting out of a Challenger pacing the GTO. Pissed a lot of people off only going 45-50 mph, but oh well. Shooting out of the bed of a truck would be best in the future.

You can run as fast as you want under your index as long as you don't dip below the safety rules. That won't make winning any easier for you As for the tire thing, I need to ask some people smarter than me. Personally I would love to let the big tire cars in, just so they have ZERO reason to cry on their keyboards about how fast their "street car" is and everybody is scared of it. Same deal with the exhaust deal, I don't see a reason to keep loud cars out. But then again, the people who set these rules up know tons more about racing than I do, so there might be a good reason. My main goal with this is for people to have fun, get to race, and see who can back up all the talk :fuckyeah: Unless I missed something in the rules that should be fine.

Kind of. In True Street you have to declare what index you are going to be for your 3 passes, so let's say you declare the 10.00 as your index. After the cruise and cool down when you make your 3 passes your goal is to get as close to 10.00 as possible on those 3. After the 3 passes you turn in your slips, we will add them up and average them. You want that average to be as close to 10.00 as possible. For each index the person who is as close to or dead on their average will be that index winner. Does that make more sense? Its like bracket racing, but you are racing yourself.

For True Street its all about the average and knowing your car. You are racing to hit your average (15.00 all the way to 9.00). Take a look at the rules, its a pretty cool way for anybody to get in on the fun. If we end up doing the heads up deal, who knows. You have to be able to get the car from point A to B and that means putting the power down.

For those who are scared of heads up or the no time grudge racing we will have this... http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117034

These are the rules that I'm looking at to go with for the True Street portion of the day. http://www.nmcadigital.com/cat/rules_purses/docs/lsx/2l-2012-LSX-True-Street-Final.pdf The tweaks I am looking at are to open it up to the big tire cars that have a DOT street legal tire, and allowing open down pipes for turbo cars. **THIS IS NOT A DONE DEAL YET** The cruise will be 20-30 miles. Now, the additional thing I am looking at is having an additional race to see who has the fastest street car. To qualify for that race you MUST: 1. complete the cruise and 2. make all 3 of your passes. After that those who want in can get in on the ladder. It will be heads up, run what you brung to see who really has the fastest street car. Line up on the entrance road where we will do final tech. You will need to turn your hazards and lights on, we will also be checking tires. Left out of track. Right on Rt 13, right on I-70, Exit at Rt 158, right onto Rt 40, left back into track.

I've never done the rolling shot thing from another moving car. For one of the GTOs I was shooting this weekend. I would love to do some more of these. I took a bunch more but I have not edited those yet. http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d178/lt1wagner/IMG_4313_zpsd7b5ceb2.jpg

Circular polarizer and was told I had to use one going forward on all outdoor/outside shots. I'm a ham fisted idiot still with Lightroom and can only take gross pictures and just make them look kind of bad. I love how this went from how to use a speedlite to going full on American Idol on my pictures My editor ad Dragzine loves my work still, promise I'm not that big of an idiot http://www.dragzine.com/race-coverage/drag-radial-events/photo-extra-all-the-sights-from-lights-out-v-in-south-georgia/

Yes, that was my first time shooting with a filter, that was a bit odd to say the least.

Its Dayton-fucking-Ohio, let the people be happy about something since they have to wake up in the hole everyday

You don't go to hell or catch an STD putting drag radials on a car and going to the race track so I see no issue...

I shoot the interior stuff on a tripod and with the timer set so there is little to no shake.

After you are done we can pitch this to Streetlegaltv.com as a feature car if you like...

Yeah, maybe it was just how and where the car was at last night but it looked bad. I guess that's the nice thing about shooting digital vs film, picture looks like butt you can delete it and try again. I've got the "prefered angle" that I need to get for the cars so that will at least remove that issue for me.

And that was the problem with the first shoot I did, "shop stuff". I was so zoned in and worried about other things that I missed the background stuff. I'm far from a pro or really even being that good. I've been taking tips from those who are nice enough to help and trying to teach myself as I go. Right now I think my track side and pit shots are strong, everything else is a solid meh. Here is part of a series that will actuall make the final feature when it goes to print. http://waggz.smugmug.com/Other/Chuck-Big-3-GTO/i-qhcnGQt/0/L/IMG_0688-L.jpg http://waggz.smugmug.com/Other/Chuck-Big-3-GTO/i-7j6gpjw/0/L/IMG_0693-L.jpg

I tried playing around with the flash last night and had some issues. Hot spots, blue color, just to name a few. Before I go shoot the insides of the cars saturday I'm going to get some foamcore to bounce the flash off of. No idea how that will work, but I will give it a shot. I might also make a difuser out of business cards for the flash as well. Worse case I will take the cars outside and try to shoot them in the shade with no direct light. I've gotten better at staging and doing the outside shots, this interior stuff is just killing me

Now that I'm starting to work with different editors he is the only one that has these types of requirments. For the tech article I was shooting last night the only requirments that editor has are "not to dark, not to blown out, I will color correct in Photoshop how I need it." He only gave me a suggested Fstop to start with because I asked. Now, here is one of the pictures from my first time shooting the inside of a car. I was told my ISO was to high and this was to soft http://waggz.smugmug.com/Other/Chuck-Big-3-GTO/i-6VMgZg6/0/L/IMG_0832-L.jpg I had my Fstop in the 16-22 range while shooting. I think the big problem is the shop is just not lit well enough.

I have no idea, this guy is all over the place in his demands. I don't know if they have cut staff to the point they have nobody who can do post process work or what. This has been a total trial by fire deal but I'm learning a lot, just gets old after a while.

I will read up on this. I am going to be at a shop tonight shooting a part install so hopefully I can take some ok shots. Saturday I have to go do another re-shoot of inside shots on some GTOs, the editor keeps changing his mind on what he likes and does not like. He wants me to go back and "reframe" them and try to get them less soft, so that's why I got the bigger on camera flash. I thought that would help, sounds like I've now made even more work for myself

I will keep that in mind and try to digest it all at some point. Right now I'm only going to be set up for on camera flash so I will have to play around with it at the shoot tonight.

So, I got a 430EX II Speedlite in the hopes of trying to take better pictures. Any tips on how to use these for shooting indoors and shooting interiors of cars? I have looked around online and there are all kinds of fun ideas, and I don't have half the equipment they require to get to work I'm going to use the flash's auto features in ETTL mode to start. It looks like the closer the zoom i use the wider the spread for the flash.