vf1000ride

It will depend on the bullet used to some degree but those numbers don't seem to far off. Most charts I have seen for the .30-30 give poor performance numbers past 200 yards. The round nose bullet design while very deadly close up is not ideal for longer shots. Between 200-300 yards most tables show the 150gr .30-30 round losing roughly 4 inches every 25 yards, so even worst than the numbers you have found and that will get even more extreme as the distance increases. You have to remember the arc the bullet takes in flight is not a nice rounded shape. It tapers off very rapidly as distance increases. Take for example (much larger distance used to help prove the point) the .30-06 ammo I use in my match rifle. It's a 168gr round at 2750fps. For 1000 yard competitions I would need to zero my rifle at 600 yards. That puts the flight of the bullet at (remember, all in inches) +34@300, 0@600, -33@700, -240@1000. Between 300-600 yards it loses 34in but from 600-700 it will lose 33 more, and yes, that is 240 inches of drop between 600 and 1000 yards. My initial point of aim to take a 1000 yard shot is 20 feet higher than the target and that is with the gun already zero'd for 600 yards.

The adjustable objective on a scope does not adjust bullet drop or the alignment of the crosshairs on your target. It compansates for parralax interally in the optics and allows the focal plane of the reticle to apear the same as the target. I have owned and shot several AO scoped rifles.

The only scope I know of that does anything like what R1 is talking about is the Burris Eliminator. http://www.burrisoptics.com/laserscope.html It uses a laser rangefinder to get distance and them computes your hold point from a set of programmable tables. Pretty trick setup, still afraid to ask the price of one.

'75 Dodge D-100 pickup '85 Ford Tempo sport '77 Oldsmobile Omega (2dr hatchback) '96 VW GTI '01 VW GTI '06 Ford Mustang The mustang is the only one I still own. The rest seem to have all met with odd endings.

Setting your zero distance is personal preference. When I had my .25-06 and hunted back in PA, I had that rifle zero'd just short of 250 yards. That placed the bullet drop of any shot from 100-300 yards within a deers vital zone. +2@100, +.5@200, -4@300. Made the mental math much easier as once you were sure of your distance to target you only need to worry about windage. For .30-30 it will have more drop than my example but the concept is the same. For hunting rifles I like to have my zero point be in the middle to long end of what I feel is my max distance shot. That allows you to hold a little low on close shots and a little high on the long shots, but you are splitting the difference and making any ranging errors to your target less of a concern. If you are looking to stay under 200 yards, a zero anywhere from 100-150 is not a bad choice. It puts your bullet a little high for the short shots and a little low at max distance.

One of the things that has been mentioned but you guys seem to be skipping over and figure I could throw my 2cents worth at it. The extra parts and aftermarket for the 10/22. Sure it has been mentioned that there is a large aftermarket support but the real reason behind why this makes the 10/22 a better purchase in my eyes is this. It is all about the options. You are buying your first rifle (for some people) and you want a good reliable gun that will shoot accurately with any ammo. The 10/22 can do this just as well as any other brand and the base model guns are all roughly the same price. 2-3 years down the road you start getting bored with it this is where the Ruger design pays off. Any other manufacturer there is none or very limited aftermarket so you are stuck with what you first purchased, you can like the gun for it's shortcomings or you will end up selling it at a loss. With the 10/22 it can be upgraded to any level you want to fix any of the features you find you don't like with it. The gun can be modified to grow with your skill level. You have options that run from simple stuff, stock or barrel change ($250 for a stock/barrel combo), all the way up to Olympic level match rifles.(better than $1500) It is the same concept that has been used with the AR-15 platform for years now. And I am sure you have seen tricked out AR-15's before. It is a more modular design that can be updated and upgraded cheaply to suit the individual owners needs just like the 10/22's design allows. For the question on lube. That gets just as divided in the gun world as it does for engine oil in bikes. Personally I use Break Free CLP on my bolt actions, my Ruger MKII pistol and the shotgun. All the other semi-auto's (both pistol and rifle) I use a calcium based white grease on the moving parts.

That article is cool, I had never seen it before. I guess the polymer group can be stronger. My want of the older style trigger group is subjective I guess. My first 10/22 was purchased in '97 and was the bull barreled target model. I had to sell it back in '06 due to cash issues but the trigger on that gun was flawless. Last year for Christmas Dick's had the base model 10/22 on sale for under $200 so I purchased another one. The feel of the trigger on this new gun is not as nice. It breaks a little rough and the pull is not consistent, seams like there is a rough spot. One of my winter projects is going to be doing some trigger work on it. If I can't polish a nice feel on it I will probably spend the cash and get one of the Volquartsen match grade hammer and sear kits.

For the guys that asked about range of a .22, don't expect to hit much past 200-225 yards until you get really good. When I had my Ruger 10/22 target model I could slap the steel plate at 200 with virtually every shot. This required roughly 40 inches of elevation to the scope. At 300 yards my hit rate would drop down to the 20% range and I was holding around 10 feet of elevation above my target. Compare that to .30-06 that only needs 8 inches of elevation to hit at 300 yards. The guns in a $200 price range are not going to get you a huge return on value. A standard 10/22 with a lot of plastic parts can be had new for $199 if you catch it on sale. Used for a .22 can be a great gun if it was cared for and if you buy a used 10/22 you can put a new barrel on it yourself with nothing more than an allen wrench. If you are looking to get a semi-auto the Ruger is the way to go if you can get the older one with the metal trigger group. I have shot both the old and the new, and currently own the new one with the plastic trigger group and don't like it as much. I should have never sold my older one.

Buy a British SMLE No1Mk3 in .303brit (bolt action) - Cost; Can be had for under $250 - Reliability; Darn near comes with a guarantee to work for several generations. - Accuracy; with an 80-100 year old barrel, 3-6 inches at 100 yards. - Durability; mine is 99 years old and still shoots 3-6 inch groups depending on how well I do my part. - Rate of fire; 10 well aimed shots per minute. Fastest I have managed in one minute with a reload is 14. Buy an M1 Garand (semi-auto) - Cost; $500-$1500 - Reliability; gun show guns can be iffy, once sorted they are a dream. - Accuracy; new match barrel around 1inch at 100yards, gun show barrel upwards of 7-8 inches at 100yards. - Durability; another great battle rifle that with minor care should outlast it's owner. - Rate of fire; 16 aimed rounds per minute. rapid fire probably double that.

I agree with all your tips except this one. There should be a few caveats mentioned for this quote. Yes it's a good idea to know how loud your gun is when fired without earplugs. Doing this at an outdoor range is your best option as it will reduce the recoil blast somewhat. Also ask that anybody else at the range hold their fire so you are not hit from all sides with muzzle blast. You should have the full understanding though that with larger caliber / higher powered rounds your hearing loss may be permanent. Especially if the gun is fired indoors. You can fire a .22 without hearing protection in a large field and have very little if any ringing in the ears, but fire a snub nose magnum indoors and you may never hear again. I use 32DB soft foam in ear hearing protection, and my .357 when fired at an indoor range still makes my ears ring. It comes down to the gun used and your own acceptable level of risk. In any caliber though I would not recommend making it a regular habit of shooting without hearing protection. I have moderate hearing loss in both ears already and am trying my best to keep what is left. If you intend to do me harm though and the choice comes down to my hearing or my life, I will gladly learn sign language. My best tip for anybody buying a gun comes down to one simple thing. >Practice< It was mentioned before and is worth repeating till people are sick of hearing it. Practice with your guns, know how they work, know how they function, know what ammo they like and what they don't like. Just like motorcycles, guns are machines. They can function great when the user is well informed and knowledgeable about what they are doing. When you have the uninformed twat behind the trigger with a hero mentality and you combine that with zero knowledge and a lack of skill, people can get killed. Second piece of advise. Consider how the gun fits in your hand, buying a gun that you can't get a comfortable grip on makes it hard to shoot. Regardless of what caliber and gun style you end up purchasing one of the most critical aspects of being accurate with a handgun is to be able to form a proper grip with your hands. A good grip on your gun is fundamental in becoming proficient with it. Last thoughts for now. Look at the sights and see if you can align them and see them clearly. When you are at the gun store looking at guns try not to be like everybody else. Pointing the gun up at the ceiling to look down the sight is a good plan so you do not inadvertently sweep the muzzle at another person in the store. This is a good plan for the most part, but when doing this don't point it at the lights to see what the sights look like. Point it safely at the darkest thing you can find and see if the sights are still visible. I can't tell you how often you see people point them at a light and exclaim how easy they are to see well no shit. Criminals tend not to break into your house wearing brightly colored clothing that is well lit with industrial fluorescent lights. You need to be able to see your sights in low light, high stress conditions when the criminal is wearing dark colors.

I use a digital caliper from Harbor Freight. http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-digital-caliper-47257.html Works just fine for measuring cases, it even has a thumb screw that you can lock down the jaws and use it like a go/no-go gauge and save the batteries.

Those RC166's are awesome. 250cc inline 6 cylinder with an 18,000rpm redline (give or take a few thou).

Here is mine from Ride on Columbus last summer. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhWo4bwuiAs&feature=player_embedded

I like my loud exhaust, with that and the intake mods I gained roughly 12hp over stock. Not bad for a bike that still makes less than 100hp to the rear tire. So far everyone that has heard it likes the sound of my bike. Granted I haven't polled everyone in my neighborhood yet.

I started my reloading on an old RCBS J3 single stage press. Used it for years making .30-06 match ammo. I haven't shot a highpower match in years now and most of my loading is done to save cash. Two guys I work with and I have gone in together to get that Lee Load-Master I mentioned earlier. We are looking at loading for 9mm, .357sig, .40S&W and .45acp. From the numbers I have run, on average over those 4 chamberings we can save roughly half versus buying factory ammo even with the expense of the press figured into it. 9mm not as much savings, .357sig a lot of savings. From that link Obesityrules posted up we can save enough just by loading the .357sig versus Winchester white box that the loading press will be paid off in only 500 rounds of ammo. There is definitely some economics to doing it yourself. $14 per hundred 124gr FMJ versus the Winchester 124gr FMJ at $64 per hundred. Like other have said, and it bears repeating. Buy the books, read the books, understand the books. Getting in touch with somebody that has done reloading and can explain the terms used and that can show you what to look for is also a big help. Then buy equipment and load ammo. A big boom in your face and a broken gun because you fouled things up while making ammo costs more than just money.

I can normally get 3-4 reloads from the .30-06 in my garands. That gun is really hard on brass though. From a bolt action rifle you could expect upwards of 8-10. Pistol ammo I will have to see. I just purchased a Lee Load-Master progressive press this morning. Can't wait to start pumping out pistol ammo and make shooting a little more affordable.

WTF are you smoking. Ammo is not cheap. I used to buy 9mm for $5 per 50 for new, name branded ammo. I ain't seen that stuff under $10 per 50 in years. Ammo is double what it was 8-10 years ago. Reloading your own can save you cash but like Beegreen says, you will only end up shooting more so the cost savings isn't as apparent.

I have a pair of Eclipse 10" 88100DVC aluminum cone subs in a custom box. Not blown but need cleaned up. Come with custom sealed 2 chamber low volume box, designed to have the sub magnets face out. Also have an oldschool Orion HCCA 275G4 amp for sale (1200watts@1ohm). Has the remote gain control, manual and all the parts along with original box. Same situation as subs, works great but needs cleaned up, has a few scratches that need polished out. Hit me up in PM if your interested.

I would probably damage the program with the amount of ammo I have fired through some of my guns. How many digits out does it go? I need at least a 10,000 digit for most of mine.

He has been to a couple of the Euro-bike night get togethers over in Grandview. Here are a couple photo's of it from two different weeks. It is definitely a cool bike that is sure to draw a crowd. All the originals and more can be found here; http://photos.eurobikenight.com/

I've had it for a good 8 years now or so. I got it at a small gun shop in PA near where I used to live. They where going for $75 at the time. I have a second one that was sporterized I am trying to return to original. The parts are just hard to come by these days.

That's cool. I have the Smith 340pd (J frame .357) with the crimson trace laser grips. On them it is a small button on the front of the grip, under your middle finger. You just tighten your grip on the gun to turn the laser on. You had asked about the speed loader, I don't have one for mine yet. I usually just keep 5 extra rounds loose in the change pocket of my jeans. I was looking at the Bianchi speed strips. They lay flat in your pocket so they won't look out of place. Most reviews admit they are not as fast as a conventional round speed loader but they are more convenient. Really got to take a pic of the other side to show the laser.

What actually turns on the laser. Is there a switch in the grip somewhere?

.300 winmag has always been an option for the current M24 platform, along with .338 lapua. Originally the military thought the .300 would be two hard to get ammo onsite in a battle so they opted not to buy the guns chambered in it. You can go to any gun store and buy a Remington M-24 in .300 winmag. There are current US military units already using the M-24 in .300 winmag, it is just not a standardized rifle.

Sorry, it's just that the original article is written to make it sound like we don't already have an option for the longer shots. The new rifle is just a modular version of the same gun currently in service. It is chambered in .300 winmag which was one of the original options for the current M24 platform. Maybe it will be a better gun than what is currently in use, but from a skeptics standpoint it looks like they just dressed up an existing idea with some tacti-cool.