Ahmadi6490

Wayne National Forest is where it's at :thumbup:

Bump...will take $350 for CR members

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Asking $400, would be a great candidate for a plow this winter when the snow finally comes :ninja: Briggs & Stratton Intek 17.5hp full pressure lubrication w/oil filter, overhauled this summer with new piston rings (mis-diagnosed head gasket leak), new engine gaskets all the way around. Also adjusted the valves to factory sepcs. Other than that I have never had a single problem with it. Have plenty of paperwork to prove this. Runs, starts, and mows really REALLY good. I have a front brush guard for it as well and it has a mulching kit installed on it. Has digital sensors for battery, low oil, pto on/off, and hour meter. I used to plow my driveway with it last year, but I got a really good deal on a blower and sold the plow a few weeks ago. The mower will occasionally backfire when you shut it down. Carb has never been cleaned im sure it's due for one, runs great as is though. Cosmetically wise there is a small hole in the dash from a falling tree branch during a windstorm, does not affect anything. Can upload pics of this if buyer is serious. Thanks and I believe it is a 2002-2004 model, got it on a trade a few years ago. Now I have a zero turn and no longer need this.

I got $200 to offer, looks like a nice gun but im short for cash this winter. Either way lemme know

$1000 just because it's collecting dust.....I know someone wants to ride this next year at Wayne national forest

Down to $1100 and I won't take a penny less

Has the timing chain been done yet?

Doesn't anyone want a good bike? $1200

Bump...come on $1250 is a great price for a freshly rebuilt two stroke. These things last forever. I just rode it the other day started right up....I know someone wants this.

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1995 with less than 2 hours on full top end rebuild (wiseco piston and nikaseal plated upper jug), I have the paperwork to show it. I also have all the paperwork from the previous owner and the original owner with over $800 in recipts. I also have a box full of misc/extra parts that will go with the bike such as brand new odometer, taillight, all the parts needed to rebuild the suspension brand new from husqvarna. Even though the suspension is great and needs zero work. Tires have 75% tread left and brake pads only have 5 hours on them. I have a set of aftermarket handlebars for it as well and a full gasket set brand new. Additional tranny and engine fluid as well. Bike has new flywheel, magneto, starter, etc etc etc. Forks are solid and do not leak a drop. Bike starts up first kick everytime! Powerband hits real hard it's a two stroke. Carb was rebuilt last year and I even have another re build kit for the future. Carb could use some fine tuning and adjustment of the float bowls and air/fuel mixture screws...the idle is a little off but it still runs great. Everything is in pretty good condition and I have a clear title for the bike. Bike stand included and I have all the written service maintance for the entire bikes life...even the size of the jet's in the carb. Bike has plenty of power perfect for trails or track. Has many aftermarket parts and skid plates. Only trade I would be interested in is a really nice walk behind/zero turn mower or a quad 400cc+. $1100

$45 each or $90 for the pair...it's at the Newport on July 11 Pm me or reply to this thread..im located off Sawmill road

SOLD

Bump, come on $600 EDIT: Replaced starter spring so this mower has absolutely ZERO problems.

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Bump...lowered to $70

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SOLD SOLD SOLDReally really clean mower, you cannot find a single blade of grass on this mower. Litterally showroom fresh, has probably less than 100 hours on it. Washed after every mow, always ran synthetic oil except for break in. Has cruise control, cup holder, pedal linkage, 8 speed transmission, visual gas tank and is powered by 18.5 hp briggs and stratton single ohv. Will even mow in reverse, just have to hit a button. Runs perfect, mows great, no problems at all except the starter spring is out/lost compression. I have to manually spin the spring counter clockwise for the starter gear to grab before you crank the ignition. That's the only problem i've ever had with it...i'm sure it's a really cheap spring to replace. It's a Bronco model btw. Intek engine, oil lubrication system (great for hills and no dry starts), cast iron sleeve, oil filter equipped. One of Briggs and Stratton's better engines. 18.5hp, new battery and blades I have owners manual and brand new mulching kit for it as well as two sets of keys. It was bought new on 07/05 for $1418. I'm asking $650, pm me or reply for my contact info. May take trades/partial trades depending on what it is. SOLD SOLD SOLD

Emailed

Its one 12" sub just the brand name is dual. Selling cheap because I need the cash rather than the bass

$90...hits hard. I paid $200 for the amp alone a few years ago...system was only used for a year. I have misc thick speaker and rca wiring for it too that's included. Reply if you wanna see pics or pm me thanks

It's either consuming it or leaking it very slowly. Coolant is not mixed with oil, it's clean. I may have added too much that's why my overfill tank is almost full. The thing is when I overheat there's proper coolant cycling, fan activated, thermostat activated and adequate amounts of coolant fluid. I don't see why it would overheat a tad when the cooling system is working properly? Unless air is constanly getting into my system causing blockage but I check and see no bubbles and no cold spots in the hoses top and bottom. That's why I was thinking maybe stock radiator/fan ain't cuttin it when I run the engine for an extended period of time. Ever since I bleed the system it doesn't just overheat...it took quite some time and miles not to mention idleing in order for it to overheat. Am I on to something or on the wrong page?

Really so im not alone? lol So do you guys think if I got a bigger fan/radiator this would solve the issue?

Car overheated a tad today...fan was running and coolant was flowing properly...is there anyway the vaccum from the overflow tank isn't getting to the radiator? I mean what could not allow the radiator to pull coolant from the tank? If the radiator was faulty would that provent a proper vaccum pull? Was pretty hot today...maybe I just need an aftermarket cooling system. But it has worked fine all week. Seems like when I add coolant to the radiator it does overheat but if I don't then it does....