crazbiker4

Im thinking about doing the 7th in Novice.... If there is room in Int I may ask to move up later in the day. Do you still get the same amount of runs even though the day is shorter?

Hey Mike,

Last time (6/4) when we were running in the same group I was running 30-30 in my Q2s and they felt great in the turns. I think next time I am going to check the pressure expansion.

PS... I am thinking about running 7/7 or 7/16.... let me know if your thinking about going those days.

All good responses so far guys, keep 'em coming!

After you mentioned this I tried to find something on the internet but to no avail. What does he do that is so different? Knowing his personality I would think he would attest to the John Daly style of training.

The thing that concerns me is that if you looked at Simoncelli's stats, he was about as tall as I am yet weighed 20lbs more. When looking at the heights/weights of motogp riders, I am mid pack when it comes to weight yet am off the chart for height. I can only imagine that I am missing something since all of their heights and weights correlate so closely; then again "the grass is always greener".

Well you forgot he has 20lbs of hair... so now your even!

Thanks man!

Not sure where your from, but most of the places are in comlumbus. The first photo is at Westerville BMX track (jumping the berm), Photo 2 is in Palo Alto Cali, Photo 3 is a secret loaction... If your interested shoot me a PM, and the last is at the Westerville Skatepark.

There are some other places to ride, Alum Creek, Hocking Hills near lake hope, and I have never been but near Mid Ohio there is Mohican which I heard is very good!

I have been riding two wheel vehicles all my life! From BMX bikes, mountain bikes, road bike, MX, and now street motorcycles. I know I ride better and more when in shape... remember fatigue causes bad things. To stay in shape when not riding I play ice hockey (Fall and winter), do a little weight training in the winter, run with my dog, and recently I bought Insanity!

In my opinion the best workouts that work for me are Biking and the Insanity workout. Road cycling is great because its like riding a motorcycle but it works the shit out of your legs but also keeps you in the riding position to help strengthen your core (lower back). Mountain biking helps with tossing the bike around and making the bike do what you want it to do.... not to mention builds a little upper body strength. The reason I like Insanity because helps with cardio/ strength/ flexibility/ focus and agility. I think all of these are used during track riding and are all important.

Signed up for Monday... I have not gotten the schedule yet, do the gates open at 7am?

Im tossing around doing one of the days, since im already in the late fee time frame I am going to follow the weather.

never go by a "suggested setting". it never works for all. it might be ok for a general ballpark but if you're really looking to fine tune your bike never use a guide from a magazine or the owner's manual.

the only thing you'll benefit from the magazine article is learning what screw does what.

the sag and rebound are the 2 most important or priority settings first of all. if that bike has never had the forks serviced it's way overdue. the oil is only good for so long.

you can change the oil on your own pretty easy. it's a matter of taking the top cap off and draining it out and filling it back up. although you really should take it all the way apart and clean it out with brake cleaner (yes that's what suspension shops use).

you'll be very surprised how much of a difference just the oil can make. I just changed mine out last week. I had put racetech's ultra slick in it about in 07. this time I used maxima racing fork oil and I can really tell with the settings at what they were.

Agree, use the link I posted as reference... This setup is probably "stiffer" then the stock setup. So you would be better starting with the stock set up to start with.

I would check the rear preload, if you bought the bike used the previous owner may have cranked the spring down to raise the height (maybe riding doubles). This is good for small adjustments but if you have to add too much then the suspension will feel stiff at the top. Check for free sag as well, you should have 5-10mm (this is the sag of the bike under its own weight). If you do not have 5-10mm then you need to look at changing to a stiffer spring or take some preload out.

Here is how I would start out:

1a. Make sure the pressure in your tires is correct

1b. Check all the settings, then set them to stock or turn the comp and rebound adjusters all the way out. You wont hurt anything if you cant remember where it was because you said it rides bad anyways. Remember a click out means from full hard or all the way in!

2. After turing all the adjusters out, you should set the sag for the front and rear. I like to start with the rear. Measure from the center of the axle to a fixed point on the tail. Do this with no load on the rear, bike by its self and with you on it. For example if you measure 650mm with the bike off the ground then you want to be around 620mm with you sitting on it and no lower then 640 with only the bikes weight.

Do this for the front, there should be some adjusters on the top of the forks for the preload and rebound. compression should be on the bottom. I take a different approach for the front because my CBR has long top out springs. I put a zip tie on both forks (on the chrome part) and make sure under very hard braking i am within 10mm of bottoming out. If you have short top out springs then you can measure it the same way you did the rear.

3. set up your rebound and compression front and rear. I would read the following.

-RC51 settings (find your bike, these are NOT STOCK!)

http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/suspension/146_suggested_suspension_settings/honda.html

-How to do it:

http://www.sportrider.com/suspension_settings/suspension_setup/146_0402_suspension_setup_guide/index.html

I was there on Sunday only.... First time out, had tons of fun and met a lot of good people! The instructors are very good and are great to work with. I feel way more confident then ever before cant wait to get out and do another one! Im thinking about doing 6/4 or 6/5 since I need to burn up some vacation before mid June.

I let my friend use my camers to shoot some photos since I have shot a few of his car events in the past. Ill post some more as I process the photos, he took a bunch of other riders.

5 page waiver that reads like it is more for driving their cars or riding one of the former KTM bikes.

Really, any lawyers out there that read this thing as much of it doesn't seem to apply for a track days.

Do we really have to bring titles:

During certain Events, Participant may be permitted to use a Participant-owned and/or supplied vehicle ("Participant Vehicle") and The Mid-Ohio School may permit other participants to use vehicles they supply and/or own ("Third Party Vehicles"). Participant agrees that prior to operation of a Participant Vehicle at The Mid-Ohio School, in any Event and/or in the Restricted Area, Participant shall provide The Mid-Ohio School evidence of the following:

(a) Participant’s ownership of the Participant Vehicle (such evidence shall include producing title and registration of such Participant Vehicle).

I agree that this is for if you were to use KTM or MO car, I am going to verify with them tomorrow because I do not want to put my credit card info on there.

I see we are talkin OEM.... I Have never compared OE part prices between MFGs, but they all seem to be expensive and about the same price. Used is the way to go! Now if we compare HRC vs GYT-R then yes I would say HRC is a bit more.

If we were comparing aftermarket products then everything seems to about the same cost.

Seat time!

But in my opinion, not in any order...

1. Tires

2. Brakes

3. Setting up your suspension (or the more expensive route... swaping it out for some aftermarket forks and shock)

4. Getting in shape....

5. Do not listen to gixxie 750 about getting rid of your Honda

Since all of us are getting pumped up for this track day I figured I would share my track day mods:

Brake pads

Lines

Gutted ram air

Home made rad guard

Spark plugs

lots of safety wire... Drain plugs, fill plugs, axles, pinch bolts....ect

Here are a few photos!

Brake lines, pads and a good cleaning!

Safety wire:

All put back together!

I also gutted my air box... mad an additional 5 hp and 6ft/lbs of tq!

I would anodize the forged wheels... or paint them orange.

It would look like this:

Thanks. Flying solo so Days Inn sounds like a plan.

If you mention you are doing a track day at MO, I think they give you a discount. When you sign up read the PDF, it explains it in there.

I am so ready! I will be on the 816 bike coaching if you need help don't hesitate to ask!!!

Thanks! I would like to meet some of you guys off of here!

Signed up last night! I think all I need to do is tape up the lights!

So went to the Honda dealership yesterday to feel how the 2012 CBR brakes feel (1000 and 600) and mine are better feeling then them. It must just be the way Honda brakes feel, ill just need to figure out if I need something more firm feeling or if the way it is will work.

Its a known issue with the 600rr line that the OEM Master Cylinder is kinda crappy. I've had the same problems with my 07. Lemee guess, you have about 1/2-1 inch of play till you get stiffness in the lever? Normal unfortunately. I got the MC seal/rebuild kit last year and did it...and had Reuben rebuild the calipers this year.

Went to Jennings last month and even with new pads the lever was back at my fingers by the end of the day. I finally gave up and got a Brembo 19x18 to replace it with. Just waiting on the reseviour kit to bleed it all out again.

Thanks for the input! It seemed most people with this issue had 07s but Its proabably about the same design for 09. I think you had the same issues as I am having. The pads do compress at the slightest lever pulled, but if I were to hammer it then the lever feels it has to go further then it should and even then it does not feel 100% solid.

Before I go the route of buying a nice Brembo MC I am going to rebuild the master first. Let me know how the Brembo works!

Thats some pretty good pics - hadnt thought about a leak, but you can see if you get fluid behind the plunger(piston) its not gonna be good.

So did a re-bleed last night and ran about 32oz of brake fluid through the system... I think it came out out to about 4 full reservoirs per caliper/master. However I did not see any air come out and my lever still feels about the same, I will check it tonight again since I left a zip tie on the lever.

Another possible issue I ran accross is that the master may need to be rebuilt... kinda sucky if it does since the bike is an 09 with about 10K on it. But it could be possible that one of the seals was bad from the start. I did on the other hand leave the system closed with no fluid in it for about a week when working on it, I wonder if this cause the seal to fail?

-Each pump untill you are done.

Every master cylinder design can be a little different but the idea is that if the piston is over stroked, some brake fluid can get behind the piston and you are semi-hosed. Then the only way to fix if you did that is disassembly. - To remind myself to not screw up, I like to tape a small piece of wood on the end of the bar, usually like 3/4 inch thick so there's no way in BFE I can overstroke the thing. -- The same thing can happen on the rear. I've seen umpteen threads where guys have effed up this....

See the idea?

Ok, Ill give it a try and see what happens! Most of the DIY information say to pull the lever back to the bar until your last pump if using speed bleeders you only pull half way to keep pressure in the line.

I see what you are saying, if this would happen would the fluid leak out near the plunger? See link below... bottom photo, opposite side of the banjo bolt.

http://www.howmotorcycleswork.com/images/scans_resized/img016.jpg

does your master cylinder have a bleed valve too? you may need to bleed that as well.

sometimes you can get an air bubble in your master cylinder that's kind of tough to get out.

It does, I bled it as well... I will do it again.

Well, i was going to suggest the overnight zip tie method, but you tried that. The critical part is ensure all the lines are clear of bubbles. I assume you were watching the lines as you were bleeding the lines? And I further assume kept flushing until all the bubbles were gone? And finally assume as you filled the brake reservoir, you made sure it never went empty while you bled the brakes (i.e. kept it topped off as the reservoir was getting drained?

If so, you should be fine. I don't think the steel lines give you better feel right off the bat. They are to prevent expansion unlike the OEM rubber hose lines. Even then So you'd notice it more under constant hard braking (i.e. at the track or very spirited rides). With OEM lines, there could be a tendency that the lines would expand and you'd feel more "sponginess". Steel lines would prevent that expansion, therefore the sponginess.

When in doubt, bleed the brakes again. It's better to wast a $5 bottle of fluid than lose your brakes. I'm sure more tech literate people will correct me on anything I've posted.

Yes to all your questions and I was very careful to not dry the MC out. Yea, I was thinking about running some cheap Dot 4 through the system to make sure all the air is out then replace with RBF600.

I had simular issues when I added new lines on my brake redo with RC51 M/C and calipers. I did a couple sessons of bleed it, let it set a day and a few days later dit it again. It wouldnt hurt to bleed yours again. Since you have speed bleeders, try pumping the levers to push fluid thru the system. (- Dont pull the levers all the way back! Leave about an inch between the grip and the lever, and then let the lever back out) - A good brake fluid to use is Valvoline synthetic. I have used in a lot of bikes with no problems.

Dont pull the levers all the way back? is this only on the last pump or each pump?

Thanks for all the help! Like I said, my brakes do work and stop me pretty quick, but I feel that if i was to pull the lever back hard enough then i may be able to hit the bar, most hydro systems i have felt will pull back then stop and will not allow you to go back anymore. On think I want to add is that when I was cleaning the calipers I dumped all the old fluid out... maybe this was a bad idea? I was just wondering if its something honda does with their MC over other MFG. On the good side of things by rear feels solid.

Just installed some new lines (Fren Tubo) and pads (EBC HH) on my 09 CBR600rr about 1 month ago but I still think I have air in the front lines? The brakes seem to work pretty good but the lever does not seem solid… it feels somewhat spongy and not as firm as it was before (or I’m just nuts). However when I felt some of the new CBR levers they feel almost the same? I thought by putting steel braded lines on it would stiffen it up a little? A friend of mine put lines on his R6 recently and his lever feels solid, but I was wondering if this had to do with the design of the master between the MFGs?

Has anyone had air issues like this after doing lines? Or do I need to bleed the crap out of them? I have heard of people getting air bubbles stuck in the line and they are hard to get out.

I thought I bled them pretty good because I used the bleeder bags but felt it was not good enough so I got a hand vac.. did not really do much…. Then I tried the Zip tie over night methed, which seemed to help a little. I would like to try to bleed them some more but with some cheaper fluid until I get the feel I want/need then put some new RBF600 in it.

Here is everything I changed:

- Lines (Fren Tubo)

- Pads (EBC HH)

- Speed bleeders all the way around

- Fluid (Motul RBF 600)

- Cleaned calipers very good!

Is anyone planing on camping Sunday night? Do most people pitch a tent? Also, can we park in the paddok or the grass? I was wondering because I am going to bring a pop up canopy but ill need something to secure it to the ground.