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Ryan218

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Posts posted by Ryan218

  1. alright so im going to build a 4v motor to put in my 2000 gt.

     

    im going to start off with a 97 or 98 mark 8 motor.

     

    I plan on using a set of 03/04 cobra heads I have got and ive decied I want to do... even it it cost me more in the end is a ported 03/04 eaton setup.

     

    for the bottem end here is my hanging up point. a cobra roating assembly is always a possibility and after browsing ebay looks like I can pick up one for around 700 minus crank. after doing some digging ive found that the new 5.0 coyote rods will work and they are 40 grams lighter per rod. that's shaving almost 3/4 a pound of the roating mass and are just as strong ( per what internet says. and I can pick up a new set for 300 bucks. for pistons what is my best bet. is there a factory ford forged pistion out there other then the 03/04 cobra's ( ive checked through work can no longer get them or I would just go this route. )

     

     

    im sure everyone is just going to say buy a 03/04 motor and I would but id rather build one. never built a 4v from the ground up plus this block will be stronger. I want 500-550 at the wheels is my goal as this will make it a more them what I need for what I really plan on using the car for but more fun at the same time. not in a huge hurry to have the motor built as car is getting put away in 2 months to be stripped and re painted then ill put the new motor in.

     

    so cliff notes- what pistions and crank do I use? would like this to be a 100% ford motor build without ordering aftermarket parts unless there needed.

  2. ok little update. after pulling plugs today and pulling the fuel pump relay and disconnting the coil the bottom end is lose and makes no noise. no sounds of valves contacting pistion but only has one cylinder with some compression. 5 of the 6 plugs are coated with burnt aintfrezze. none in the oil pan though which is good. i think im going to be able to get away with a top end rebuild on it. i have a feeling the heads are going to be very warped though so i would like to find a set of heads for one at least. then ill do a new timing set and see what happens.

     

    have some laying around and see a set somewhere please let me know. may go pull a set from a exploder at the junkyard and has been in an accident and have them gone though.

     

    keep my options open

  3. bought a 2004 explorer for dirt cheap that needs a motor. blew head gasket and oil is a milkshake. this one has 120k on it and would like to find a motor with similar miles or low miles as i plan to keep this as a daily driver. it is a K code 4.0

     

    all places local want crack head prices for these.

  4. No you can have the 5.9 as an SLT that's what I have. An R/T would have different wheels, side steps that are body color and R/T embroidered in to the seats. May be more difference but those are the things that I know are different.

     

    biggest difference between the SLT and RT is the transfer case. The SLT uses the NV233 which is a part time 4wd (2wd, 4hi, N, 4Lo) while the RT only has the NV244 which is an AWD case. About 5 hp better on the R/T if I remember correctly (mild PCM tune). Larger front sway bar, Two tone interior, Sport tuned muffler, 3.92 gears are standard with the R/T models with limited slip as well as the 46re trans.

     

    mark has my old one. I should of kept it.

  5. The oil pan gasket is somewhat common. So is a leak from the crank seal that appears to be an oil pan gasket leak. Both can be fixed with motor in car. You'll need to go into service mode.

     

    How To for Crank Sensor Seal

     

    H/K system amps fry. No real way to test them. Expensive to replace and hard to find.

     

    18" Wheels on a 1st gen MINI in Columbus is a bad idea. Go back to a 17" with a 215/45.

     

    It's quite normal for there to be a bit of negative camber in the rears. However if lowered then a set of adjustable control arms are a good idea. Only need two in the lower positions, no need for all 4.

     

    Columbus has a fairly active MINI community. Mid-Ohio Motoring using Motoring Alliance for its forum space. I own Motoring Alliance.

     

    Mid-Ohio Motoring area on Motoring Alliance.

     

    You'll find us a friendly lot with a penchant for donuts.

     

    that's what ive seen so far guess ill tear into it this weeknd

     

     

    wanna buy it :) its near mint with 2 dents and oil leaks and bad amp ;)

     

    also it actually has 19's on it lol I double checked

  6. this came from calif. car had 42k on it now and 43k on it now. i have got stuck with the un fun task of fixing it. it has a few problems. this car was bought site un seen and i highly recomeded against them buying this site un seen. and shipped to columbus, but hey when you have money to burn who cares right?

     

    so here are the problems. oil pan is leaking. it is always running out of oil. says he is losing maybe 2 qts from it every 500 miles.

     

    also he states above 90mph he is always smelling oil. ( my thought it from the leaking. dont appear to be burning it.

     

    oil pan gasket replaceable with motor still in car?

     

    radio powers on fine i can go from radio to cd ect but have no sound. i hear its a common problem with the h/k sound system that the amp dies? how can i test for this and by chance are there any fuses i can check?

     

    it has 18" wheels on it with a 35 side wall. rear wheels are tipped in. this fixed with an alliment? or do aftermarket controll arms or something need to be installed first? not sure what it is lowerd on but i know its lowerd. has some sort of exhasut as well as an intake.

     

    also power sterring lines are leaking. after looking in the engine bay looks like this will be a massive pain in the ass.

  7. find a newer 2.0T from a Wreck and have fun. ;)

     

    :confused:

     

    its not my car. for my parents boss's sons car. this is a car for the past 4 years I have put a new clutch in for them every year because he burns them up. lol. a turbo motor is 100% not needed lol. so far though this clutch has made it 1 year and 3 months. probably should replace that will im in there too. lol

     

    anyways. find me one that I don't have to pull from a junk yard.

     

    :)

  8. I am in need of some shop recommendations. It's been brought to my attentiom that my previous mechanic, who will not be named...but has had a falling out on this page some time ago, has a habit of taking cars on a "vigorous test drive".

     

    Is there anywhere I can go that wont rape my wallet and car when I drop it off? My current needs are bearing replacements in clutch(I have tw pilot bearing, TOB and TOB retainer sleeve) along woth tracking down/repairing a possible vacuum leak and hopefully in near future I will need someone to do a mustang DOHC cam swap(again, I have all the parts...just need labor).

     

    Any recommendations are appreciated. I live in Dublin, but don't mind driving out a little to find a decent place.

     

    I know who!

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