Gixxus Christ!

derek, I need a tire change today. Sent text.

I have a strong boner for your bike. what I don't have is six grand. So...still got that boner if you're into trades...

Huh? What?

Ok so I have a set of sonic straight rate springs and a set of gold valves on the way for my bandit. I'm totally comfortable with fork work as far as doing seals and oil etc. I have no experience with gold valves. Looks like I'll get a chart for what shims to use or somethin. Just fishing for wisdom from someone who's had success with this mod.

Ok...think I've got it. Your oil light isn't just your oil light. It's also your 'stop warning light'. Check and see if your brake lights work.check and see if the wires for the front brake light switch got messed up. Change your bulb if they dont. Oil light should turn off. I accept all alcoholic or meat-related donations.

Keep at it. Plenty of good advice here and I can say with certainty that issac's papa (pauly) is a solid mechanic and diagnostician. I'm a little less sophisticated but I get the job done. Did you try running a fresh wire from the sensor to the junction inside the bucket? I'll look at a wiring diagram and see if there's another potential issue.

Well? Any progress?

Got more goodies in the mail today.

Price me.

Good luck! The rats nest inside the bucket can be intimidating but it's all color coded.

Round quick disconnect. Also called banana connector. Honda loved using them back in the day.

Got new clutch cable for the honda and tore down/cleaned the forks and sent the lowers off to be powder coated. Bought new fork seals and some sonic springs for the bandit along with a gel cell battery and tender. Buying some gold valves payday hopefully and will have better suspension all the way around.

Lol

Derp. Skipped over this somehow. Chase wiring back from the light. Pull the headlight out, download a wiring schematic from Google images and chase it back. Wire from the light should go into a connector and back out of the headlight bucket and eventually down to the sending unit. If this only started happening after you did the oil change I would walk yourself back though everything you did while changing the oil. Did you lift the bike up somehow? Chances are you pinched the wire and split the insulation enough to ground it out. To isolate the wire as the problem run a jumper from the sending unit to the hot dog connecter in the headlight bucket and see if that fixes it.

Kind of want....

Go east and get on pretty much any number road with a black and white sign.

It's an old bike. Things don't always work as they should after 35 years. Pull the sensor and work the little plunger, maybe give it a shot of wd or penetrating oil.

Sensor interrupts a normally closed circuit iirc.

Was there oil in the filter/housing when you opened it up?

The sending unit is behind the cyls on top of the transmission case, give it a few taps and see if it goes out. You can also tap into the high pressure oil feed line that goes up into the head and plumb in a mechanical pressure gauge from summit or autozone. or remove an inspection cover from the calve cover and see if there's oil shooting around up there. Or you can pay me to do any of those things.

Lmfao @ both of those videos.

Plumbed in an oil cooler on the honda 849 project. GettinG close to rideable, need to do left side hand controls and replace clutch cable.

Hmm, didn't consider that but I'd have to look up the amperage output of my vrr on the bandit. I did order a true gel battery tender as well. Now that I think about it, as long as my battery is full, the power that doesn't go to the lights, gauges, ignition etc will just go to ground anyway so as long as my battery remains well charged the bike won't be charging it so much as just floating it while running...unless I got that wrong.

Just needs to be a 'smart' charger that senses voltage.