2fat2fly

You're welcome. I hope you find the problem.

Your front signals and the front brakelight switch all plug into the same area of the wire harness. It's physically located under the front center to front right area of your fuel tank. Since you just put a tank on your bike I would look there for any abnormalities.

Your front and rear brake levers have seperate brake light switches. What you're describing sounds to me like the front brake light switch may not be hooked up or has a broken wire.

You're probably good then as it probably burped the cooling system on you, but watch the weep hole on your water pump to see if any water is coming out of it. If there is then the water pump seals are bad.

All good advice. I would also recommend reading this: http://files.meetup.com/1510087/A%20Twist%20of%20the%20Wrist%20II.pdf It is well worth reading for a new rider.

Where do you have the bike? I'll be in the Kettering/Riverside area tomorrow and can stop in to look at it if you need and want help.

It's a safe bet that the first photo shows the auxiliary plugs that Kawasaki puts on their bikes for accessories.

Welcome to the forum.

I plan to hear it run this weekend. I'll immediately start working on the mapping after that.

My work week is over. Time to get back to the important stuff.

Would be a great day for a test ride except I'm waiting on 1 critical part that's on backorder. I still have stuff to do and I'm in no way done, but I could have it slapped together enough to fire it and go around the block on it IF I had that part.;

Gunner is 100% right about this.

Welcome to the forum.

Welcome to the forum.

Do you hear a clicking sound? Or any other sounds when you hit the starter button?

That's awesome. Congrats on a cool ride.

Here's how the boost and fuel pressure guages look now. I still need to wire the lights into the electrical system and install a mounting pad for them. You won't be able to see them from the side: I had an oil line that was sticking up in the side vent of the left fairing that was driving me nuts: I fixed that by relocating it today: I also had to clearance the lower vent for the waste gate to not rub: This keeps with my sleeper theme quite well.

I have a 13 year old step-daughter (girlie-girl cheerleader) that asked me to hang out with her today and do something with her. I reluctantly agreed because I wanted to work on my ZX12 and try to get something accomplished on it. I thought we'd be in the house watching a movie or something like that....all of you with kids know what I'm talking about. She shocked me when she said she wanted to work on my bike with me. So we spent a couple hours working on my bike together (until she and my wife left to go shopping). This turned out to be an awesome day! Here's a photo of her running the sensor line for my boost guage.

The rods in it will only hold roughly 400 hp. If you do the math on it the turbo will (in theory) generate enough boost to push about 500hp. I don't believe it will nor am I attempting to get there. My fuel injectors, pistons, computer and a few other very expensive things would need replaced to get there. On top of that I am a technological caveman so I won't be attempting something like that. This is to be a street bike first and foremost so all mods done will be done in a way that maintains the streetability of this bike and I don't see this bike ever eclipsing 250hp as it currently sits. With that being said I personally don't think 350hp is too much for the street on a bike. If you do the math(and we'll assume my bike will weigh 550lbs when complete) we see that at 550lbs and 350hp this bike would have a Weight to power ratio of 1.57 lbs to 1hp. So yeah, that's about right for a street bike...

No problem Nick. If you get a kit and need help installing I'll happily help. Heck, we can do it at my house if you want. I have all the tools and a little experience with turbos ( I read a magazine article about it once).

Thanks Nick! That means alot.

Thanks. Not running a muffler at all. Turbos eat noise so the exhaust is complete as it sits. The pipe is that long for another reason entirely. If you notice it stops behind the footpeg and is angled away from the rear tire. This is in case of catastrophic failure of the turbo and/or the engine. If it dumps oil or parts out the pipe none of it will get on the rear tire or me. I did that intentionally to help me keep the Cruising Missile under control if something bad ever happens.

Before the fairing mod I couldn't get this trim piece to line up with the fairing: After: I also had to reroute the fuel pressure line for clearance on the left side upper filler panel. Now everything on the fairings lines up and all body bolts are installed so I'm happy. Now to get after the undertail area....

I went out to the garage to work on wiring issues but I got sidetracked. The right lower fairing needed modified to fit correctly with the lock up clutch installed and my ocd got the better of me so I went to work on that. Here's how it looked when I started: I taped it off, outlined the graphics and the contour line of the clutch cover: The next step is where you find out if you have a set of balls (cutting time on a damage free and original paint fairing): The "after" results: