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RHill

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Posts posted by RHill

  1. Just now, Wandering Soul said:

    Maybe get ahold of Race Tech's tech department and ask them about it?

    been back and forth with them a few times...they have been a great help so far.

    I'm debating between sending the valves & rear shock in, or getting them locally serviced.  It's a catch 22....send them out and I'd get the best service for sure, but no local support when it comes to tuning.  

  2. so here is an exploded view of the fork broken down.

    the tiny little o-ring bottom rightt (believe it is 2mm thick x 42mm ID) was chewed up on one fork and the other was completely severed.....I'd put money someone removed the cartridge previously without first removing that O-ring.

    It is really fun to put that little guy into the casting after the cartridge is installed, and that is the only way I could figure avoiding pinching & damaging the o-ring.  Nothing a few minutes with some dental picks couldn't take care of.

    Tested the seal on the fork by wrapping a tie-down strap and compressing it almost fully and leaving it sit for a couple hours....nothing leaked.

    The bike is now back together, but I'm thinking it is going to need to come back apart AGAIN, because the compression dampening is not functioning properly.  These Race-Tech cartridges separate compression and rebound damping into individual forks.  The rebound fork works great, but I can turn compression fully out to fully in and it doesn't reflect (much) in the damping. The odd thing, with the cap off and manually moving the damping rod, the damping changes with pressure to the internal rod.

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    The bike is now back together, but I'm thinking it is going to need to come back apart AGAIN, because the compression dampening is not functioning properly.  These Race-Tech cartridges separate compression and rebound damping into individual forks.  The rebound fork works great, but I can turn compression fully out to fully in and it doesn't reflect (much) in the damping. 

    The odd thing, with the cap off and manually moving the damping rod(as pictured) the damping changes with pressure to the internal rod.  When fully assembled, the damping adjustment does little.  Bounced the bike and got like 90 mm of travel with the compression fully out and 85 with it fully in.  I'd expect it to nearly hydraulically lock like every other set of forks I've bounced in the past...the rebound settings work as expected.

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    For shits and giggles....took a couple pics of my homebrew fork fluid height gauge

    BZ8N9WYkZkXWiTR876XidWNog4IvbCKwAi74rM7EPn1didVXFuWPl6FfX7hJ68B59g6n4L0J08b8hegp

  3. Never pulled the chrome out of the casting previously, but I've had damping rods out....this is something different.  Normally there is an allen bolt running up through the bottom of the casting, and that secures the damping rod.  These are an aftermarket (RaceTech) conversion of 09+ GSXR 1k big piston forks to single sided damping rods.

  4. there's not one in my fork for sure, haven't pulled apart the stock ones yet, but I'm assuming it will be the same. 

     

    Just added two photos to the album that look down into the casting.  You can see an aluminum flange with spanner holes.  The flange is attached to the damping tube....it is loose right now, but when the chrome is tightened down, it secures it in place.

  5. Ran the new bike for 3 sessions over the weekend; it turns out the one fork was leaking between chrome and casting, so they came back off. (the second one had a tiny weep)  The fork that was leaking has silicone (I think) on the threads of the chrome.  The one that was nearly dry, didn't seem to have much of anything.  Any recommendations for reassembly?

    Link to a few photos: https://goo.gl/photos/wkjo5Z4bwqdgsBPc7

    I've heard that most forks have a seal and red loc-tite on the threads.  These have no seal at the bottom and they are secured with a set screw.  As the fork is screwed into the leg, it actually secures the damping rod into the casting.  Without the chrome tube in place, the damping rod jiggles around free, only retained by the little spanner screw where the compression screw is normally located.....which will be removed tonight for a full inspection.

  6. 2 hours ago, Jester_ said:

    Im out for next week. 

    Saving $ for barber. 

    found a way to save money and still attend Mid-O:

    20 minutes ago, TRMN8TR said:

    I've got a mid-ocertificate that expires end of this year. If anyone is thinking of going, I'll make you a good deal on it.

     

    LOL, no peer pressure, none at all  :D

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