Geeto67

This is flawed logic clay, you got a warning because you were a nice person. I don't have one and my last two interactions with police ended in warnings as well because I wasn't being a douchebag to the officer. same for my wife. Also, that BMW is a bit of a cop magnet. srsly.

They fought world wars and then came home to drink heavily, smoke, and in some cases do drugs, most of which was all still socially acceptable at the time. What is more amazing concerning head trauma is how far treatment of the illnesses caused by head trauma has progressed. This news is very sad for many reasons. one of which was that help was available for whatever drove him to this, and for whatever reason he didn't get it.

Summit is a fun place to visit, way better than Jegs but it is two hours drive just to browse a store. As mentioned before the AMA motorcycle museum is in town and is awesome. It's not big but it's fun if you like to geek out on old motorcycles, esp racing bikes. http://www.motorcyclemuseum.org/ Is he into airplanes? The Crawford Auto Aviation collection is pretty awesome. It's 2 hours away in cleveland, but it has about 140 cars, mostly brass age. Highlights include the 3 stainless steel fords that ford built as show cars, a gull wing mercedes, and many local early autos (like clevelands). They have about 10 airplanes all related to golden age air racing in Ohio - specifically the Collier and Thompson Trophys. They also have one of the largest collections of historical costumes and textiles so once you are done looking at a cord 810 roadster you can walk over to the other building and see how the driver would have dressed in 1935. If you make a day of it you can hit the brown derby in Mansfield on your way back to columbus for roadhouse steaks. https://www.wrhs.org/research/crawford/ A similar distance is the canton classic car museum. I haven't been but it looks interesting and you could hit both since they are close enough: http://www.cantonclassiccar.org/ Closer to home is the Wagner-Hagans collection. It's in German Village and it's small and kooky (1980 pontiac wagon as a collector car?!?) but the memoribilia makes it really fun. plus german village. I would call about this one since all I could find was a trip advisor page about it: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g50226-d7377857-Reviews-Wagner_Hagans_Auto_Museum-Columbus_Ohio.html there is also the Bob McDormand collection in canal winchester: http://www.bobmcdormanautomuseum.com/ mostly corvettes but lots of cool neon signs and stuff too. As always call to make sure they are open.

the oil drain back into the head is what is visible and copper. I think. I mean I don't really know that you can tap the head of a flathead dodge in that spot and get 40psi oil. all the piping is so short I really can't imagine it having much lag. those dodges stock put out 70-100 hp so even at 8 psi and about 150hp I betcha that thing moves along pretty good, esp when you consider a 50 dodge fully loaded weighs roughly 3000 lbs.

it's a draw through, like you said and a stupid design. If he doesn't have a separator in the intake then he isn't actually pressurizing anything but the air above the carb throat. sidevalve or flatheads really respond to turbo or supercharging, and a lot of those old dodges run low compression (5:1 or 6.5:1) , but I can't imagine he's putting much through that setup than 6-8 psi.

have you guys run the vin yet? Is there anything special about the car? Is it a K-code car? what was the original configuration? here is a vin decoder if you need it: http://mustangattitude.com/mustang/1966vinmatrix.shtml here is the data plate info: http://averagejoerestoration.com/1966-mustang-vin-and-data-plate-decoder-sheet/

compared to the corolla the TC isn't even an also ran. Toyota built and sold 431,779 corollas in north america (at the indiana and mississippi plants) in 2014. compare this to 24,496 Scion TC's built in 2012 (sorry couldn't find 2014 prod numbers). I have a feeling the TC buyers will just go buy cars like the Kia Forte Koup, so it isn't like there isn't a place in the market for the people who want sporty cheap cars to go. Honestly I wish they would keep the TC, bring back the old supercharger kit they used to have and make that standard equipment and call it the Corolla GT-S. That would be awesome but highly unlikely. I agree, something like the old suzuki samauri or the new jeep renegade would have been cool. Scion started strong with the xB, and they pulled off the unthinkable by introducing the TC as a direct competitor to the honda civic coupe and were successful in surviving and thriving in the marketplace (esp considering honda left their market behind by inflating the civic's pricing). they started out with cool products, ended with beige creep into their product line, and taught toyota that their organization might be too big to be truly daring. It's a shame they didn't go the other direction and go even crazier or rebrand themselves as toyota's performance arm (I'm sorry but every time I see TRD on the side of a pickup all I can think of is "turd") and start pushing turbo FRS's take over the celica and offer a "rally" AWD version of the xB. oh well, goodbye Scion, you will be missed but not by many.

The sad part is someone will buy it at that price. People are retarded for Rubicons. keep looking there are still good cars out there, most likely as a private sale. Just don't be too picky about things like color and tires. I know you said no red but this is amazingly clean: http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/ctd/5431937533.html this one is also pretty nice: http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/5420087106.html a bit far, but really really clean: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ctd/5399978614.html

we call them "pets".

This more than anything. "no haggle" pricing always feels like a "fuck you" from the auto industry, even if the car is the cheapest in the market segment. I don't think re-naming them "toyotas" will make any difference. I mean really, is there anybody still alive that doesn't know Scion was a Toyota brand? they didn't really have stand alone dealers, most were part of a larger Toyota dealer. I think discontinuing the cost of maintaining a separate brand will save Toyota money, but the cars will sell probably the same as they always have. the car sells itself on looks, fit and finish, or some other external circumstance (e.g. country of origin, etc). calling the FRS a toyota FRS or GT86 isn't going to make a lick of difference. Ultimately the savings in not having to maintain a separate brand for the cars will be what keeps them in the market, you are not going to see a huge surge in FRS sales the moment toyota does what every FRS owner already does the moment they buy the car: slap a toyota badge on it. I actually feel like this is a shame. Scion did some cool stuff and had some really different marketing. In the end they were still a car company so let's not get crazy, but they certainly felt different. I feel like their undoing was they didn't have a "halo" car. I know the FRS was supposed to be it, but as great a car as it is I think it under delivered in several areas. They needed a car like the WRX STi or the Hyundai Genesis with competitive sports car power to sell the brand image as a youth car, not the hardtop miata that is the FRS.

yeah that's a really clean shell. How fresh is the paint? did they take it that far apart because of the body repair or did they buy it like that? seam sealer seems pretty fresh.

great looking car, you going to paint it red again?

Every Ny'er says this at least once.

this is interesting. The only 302 to come from the factory is a 1967-69 Z/28 engine, which would make this a very expensive block if you were using a DZ302 factory engine block. If so is it a 67 block or a 68-69 block? However, anybody can make a 302cu by using a 327 block and putting in a 283 crank. The 327 is the 4.00 in bore family and the 283 is part of the 3.875 in bore family. What block are you using? Either way you end up with a great road racing/circle track/formula 5000 engine because of the rod geometry. My father used to routinely and reliably push his 1969 Z/28 race car to 8500-9K rpm in competition. not really a great drag engine so I am wondering how are you going to use the car? drag strip? or are you going to rebuild it as a pro-touring style ride?

Looks like it has about a 2" lift, Rancho 5000s, and bushwaker flat flares. huge tires too in a good brand. Looks like someone spent the money. Go drive it and see how it handles, make sure it doesn't wander all over the road. two shortcuts people often take with these lifts are not correcting the steering arm and no SYE. make sure it has both. I'd rather have this one but your son doesn't drive stick: http://www.subaruofkingsautomall.com/used/Jeep/2005-Jeep-Wrangler-cincinnati-oh-c91f714f0a0e0a170a2315f83a7ea90d.htm Most common areas for Jeeps to rust are in the front fenders over the wheel arches (check behind that the flares are not hiding this) and the floor pans. get underneath and check over it. Jeep galvanized these bodies but it isn't german galvanizing like on a Porsche 911 - they will still rust. also make sure you run the vin and verify it is a real rubicon. lots of people just slap the decals on the hood and with the lift you can't tell from the suspension pieces. It does have the axle lock so that is a positive sign.

Did she piss a ring around your house too to mark her territory? jeez.

http://lanesplitter.jalopnik.com/youve-never-seen-a-custom-bike-like-this-hello-kitty-th-1756050313 http://i.kinja-img.com/gawker-media/image/upload/s--AUiP1ja9--/c_scale,fl_progressive,q_80,w_800/tfv6bz62gbigxqmgkzzv.jpg I just love it when bike guys take the piss. The whole damn hobby is too fucking serious. I'm still waiting for the limited edition, carbon fiber, rider to become a thing.

there isn't much for the 3.8L. Cold air (lol), ignition, a throttle mod for the electronic throttles, headers/exhaust, and ECU chips. you aren't talking about big power gains - I doubt doing all of the above will net over 100hp. it is not recommended that the 3.8L be super/turbo charged. 505 Performance has a stroker kit to 4.1L that fixes all the oil consumption engine problems as well. Here is a good read on it: http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/engine/1411-building-a-stroked-jeep-38l-v6-jk-bumping/ Compare this to the 4.0L which is not unheard of people putting turbos on 100K mile engines. There are also complete stroker kits for pretty cheap, headers, cheap injector upgrades (mustang), etc... The aftermarket for the 4.0L is huge. Jeep's spec is 1 qt per 1000 miles for the 3.8L. Anything under that they won't do anything. Over that....who knows. There are a number of issues that contribute to this from a PCV valve seal to an oil spec for cold weather emissions testing (US 3.8L run 5w20, the same engine everywhere else runs 10w30), carbon build-up, and even a few units in 2008 that had their piston rings installed upside down. Most of the oil consumption shows up between 70K and 100K miles (although some happen earlier). Remember to ask about consumption and if it sounds high...pass. This is not exclusive to the wrangler by the way, pacificas and town and country owners have the same issues. most of these issues were worked out by 09, but it still never hurts to ask. of greater concern are that some will spin bearings. This happens if you overheat the 3.8L at all. The bearing shape is not great and if the bearing area heats past tolerance the bearing will shift and block the oil passage - starving the bearing which then proceeds to spin/seize. switching to a 5w30 or 10w30 is supposed to help prevent this as well as the oil consumption issue but fuck me if I know why.

not terrible. If it is a real rubicon then at least you have the good suspension and good axles. The electronic sway bar disconnect is a problem on the JKs but there are kits to fix/convert it. Be fore-warned a melted electronic sway bar disconnect can cause a no-start in the jeep because of the body harness design. There are little stupid things like this in the JKs that give the mechanical stuff a bad rap unnecessarily. Let me be a little more clear: The 3.8L EGH engine isn't a bad engine per-se. It just isn't a jeep engine. It powered all chrysler mini-vans from 1994 to 2010, as well as the Pacifica cross over, and the VW routan. It's been around for over 25 years now and it's proven pretty dependable. but dependable doesn't = fun. When you drive a jeep wrangler there are some basics you expect, Torque, lightness, and horrible fuel mileage. The 3.8 makes 237 ft lbs peak torque at 4000 rpm vs the old inline 4.0L which made the same 237 ft/lbs peak torque at 3200rpm. All this in a truck that is almost 1000lbs heavier. What that means is you are on the gas more often just to go slower, and if you wheel, you are going to have to put your foot deeper in to get up the more challenging stuff. Horrible fuel mileage is the one thing where this engine is more jeep than the inline. My old YJ still gets 16mpg city and 19 mpg highway even after twenty years and 140K miles. It's light so that helps. every TJ I have driven returns about the same, esp the last ones (2004-2006) with the crack prone emissions friendly head. Most of the guys I know with 3.8 JKs report a 14-15 mpg around town and 17-18mpg real world highway. Yes I know this engine is more efficient in the mini-vans but keep in mind a wrangler is aerodynamically a brick and even the Routan is more aero-shaped than it. If you have never driven any kind of jeep before I don't know that you'll notice. But to jeep people, who already mostly drive like johnny on the gas, it feels like working harder to do less. My suggestion is, drive it. See if you like it. I didn't, my father didn't, most of my hard core buddies don't, but those are all obnoxiously jaded jeep people.

A couple more pieces of advice concerning Wrangler buying: tops: Where you can try to buy one that has both tops. The hardtops are shockingly expensive if you have to buy them separately. My YJ top is still $500 in decent shape and those are 20 years old now. The TJ tops run between $500 and $1500 depending on condition and I can't even imagine what an LJ hardtop sells for because I haven't seen one for sale in a long time. Hardtops just make winter more bearable. I know plenty of people who do winter with a soft top only, but I don't - the hardtop just keeps heat in and rain and snow out better. Doors: I always say try to get full hard doors if you can too because TJ hard doors run $500-$800 a set, but there are places that make an upper hard door bolt on for the half doors that makes this less of a priority. Half doors are usually pretty cheap and easy to find so it is always better to get the full doors if you can, but it shouldn't be a deal breaker. If you want to run without doors in the summer, I can recommend some motorcycle mirrors that will bolt on to the stock hinge so you can still be legal. I use a stock pair off an old shovelhead harley that I bought at a swap meet for $5 years ago (DOT legal) but there are easier ones to find now. Lifts: My personal preference is don't look at any jeep with over 2" lift. Stock ride height is ideal. After 2" lift you are talking about 35" tires or bigger and those tires are really expensive to replace. Also there are a lot of other things that need to be upgraded and most jeeps are usually someone's continual project. I can gaurantee you that on 95% of all the lifted jeeps out there the speedometer is useless. Body lift: should be no more than 1" and you have to make sure that any lines that pass to the body have been extended. The last thing you want is for your kid to be driving and the suspension unloads and pulls a brake line out of the master cylinder. otherwise these are pretty safe, usually done just to fit big tires and most of the mechanical stuff remains stock and functioning properly. With a TJ this usually means a 31-32" tire and those aren't any more expensive than the 30" ones the Rubicon comes with stock. Suspension lift: not all kits are created equal so it is important to understand the brand of lift and who installed it. You are going to want to see extended lines, proper front end geometry, upgraded shocks, and a slip yoke eliminator at the bare minimum. Tires are usually in the 32"-35" range which can get pricey when you get to the 35" sizes. fortunately most TJs don't require gearing upgrades for lifts this size (if they have the 3.73 rubicon/tow package gears). for any lifted jeep, make sure a high lift jack is included or you get one after purchase right away. Make sure you drive the thing and listen for any creaks or clanks. Jeep springs naturally creak a little, but you don't want to hear anything else flexing. Also jack it up and let the axle dangle and look for any lines or hoses that are pulled tight. don't worry about the speedo being off...there are plenty of places that sell gears and correction boxes cheap but most jeep guys are too lazy to fix it. My YJ runs 30" tires up from 26" stock (0" lift) and the speedo is way off and has been for a decade or more. It's a jeep thing.

here you go, bone stock, automatic, 83K miles, clean body, $12K.This is exactly what you want to look at. The downside is that you have to go to youngstown to look: http://youngstown.craigslist.org/ctd/5392471736.html

Something like this: https://columbus.craigslist.org/cto/5407960315.html

As a life long jeep fanboy I highly recommend you look at a TJ jeep, esp a 2004-2006 long wheelbase LJ unlimited. Why? They are the last of the "true" jeeps in that they can leverage the aftermarket that was developed around cj's and yj's for the last 60 years. The straight six is damn near unkillable and can be serviced with a rock and a pointy stick roadside. Jeep made huge efforts to make sure the TJ sealed properly, ride nicely, but still kept that go anywhere usefulness of a jeep. The LJs are in high demand and have probably hit the bottom of their depreciation curve, finding an under 100k mile one might be tough but I see at least one a month for sale. If you want the year because of financing plenty of credit unions will finance older vehicles. I have driven damn near every jeep made in most trim levels and have driven a YJ for 21 years straight, and an LJ ranks really high with me. The 3.8 non-pentastar jk wranglers rank pretty low, they just don't feel fun at all to drive and that minivan engine works too hard to move them along. Don't worry about Rubicons and other weird trim specs, anything made in the wrangler line with a 6cyl is way more capable than the stock CJ that jeep built its reputation on. Go talk to Stefan at trail quest. I think he has 5 jeeps of various years for sale now and jeeps are all he works on.

there are, but there are also people who just like to do goofy things and screw around and don't really care what others think. I mean the dude has a bug deflector attached to his front bumper as a "wing" on a shitty car with peeling clearcoat - you can't honestly believe he thinks it is a performance improvement. Reading this thread it's like some of you have never painted a car an obnoxious color with a roller and house paint, or bolted on something stupid like a park bench to your trunk because it looked stupid and you were having fun.

well played.