Hwilli1647545487

I promised I would stay out of this discussion, but it looks like I broke my promise. I don't want to start any personal attacks. I would prefer this stay on a discussional, adult level. I have read through this thread a few times, and I hope I am reading what everone has said accuratly. Bottom line is, you cannot increase flow when adding a pump inline. a 255 in take pump and a 190 inline pump does not flow 455. It doesn't work that way. A fuel pump is rated at a certain flow rate at a certain preasure. RLs link was an excellent reference, and I am suprised that this argument is still going on after I read it. When preasure in a system increases the efficiency of the pump decreases. So let's say that a 255 pump is rated 255 at 40psi of system preasure (I am almost directly stealing from RLs link BTW). When you increase system preasure, the pump has to work HARDER, so it can't push fuel as fast. That is common sense (at least to me). RLs link has some math to help you figure out what the pump will become rated at at different preassure rates. This is my first point. I hope we all can agree on this. Fuel pump is rated at xxx @ a certian PSI. As PSI increases, pump can push less fluid over time. The purpose of the inline pump is to take stress off of the in tank pump. If you place a pump inline, the two pumps together help to divide the system into preasure zones. Thus making them have to work less. example. fuel rail--------------------inline pump---------------------intank pump 40psi.....................................................20psi Using RL's link which states that the preasure between the two pumps is only 20psi. We know it's going tobe less than the system, so it's as good a number as any. The intank pump is rated at 255 @40psi. Since it is only seeing 20psi it is now more efficient (see RLs post/link for the exact math). It can flow more fuel. Normally the preasure in the tank would be ~0. So since the inline pump is being force fed the fuel at 20psi it now becomes more efficient. The preasure difference it is seeing from the rail, and it's supply is again only 20psi. Someone correct me if I am wrong. Also, as far as I know the FPR regulates preasure. Not the pump. Though if the pump can't meet the demands obvioulsy preasure will drop. Good link RL, good math in that link. One problem I see in this thread is that people are failing to articulate their point, and that in itself is causing confusion. Chris, Ricky is 100% correct. Get a FPR gauge on your car so you can identify the problem. Don't just throw parts at it smile.gif . Also concerning the arguments in this thread, I think a little read comprehension, and people being better able to articulate themselves just a bit better could have avoided a lot of the dick swinging.

Your name doesn't happen to be supraguy95 no Supraforums?

I am going to come off somewhat cocky here, and I apologize in advance.. but you are modifying a Supra here. Not a Cavalier, or so car you picked up for $1000 bucks. Don't buy some manifold made out of dryer ducting, taped together by some guy in a back alley whilest tokeing on his crack pipe. Do the car right. That boostlogic kit Hua posted is a steal IMO. Did you read the parts list? Nothing worse than having a nice looking car, and then when someone askes you to pop the hood you have the engine held together with duct tape, bailer wire, and looking like complete ass. Sorry, not my car, and not really my business, but from what I am reading of your plan so far it somewhat distresses me. I'll be quite now. Howard

Yup that was me smile.gif

How you guys are so sure it's a "wheel bearing" from that description, I'll never know. I hope she doesn't replace it on that advice! EDIT-Ricky posting. [ 10. February 2004, 05:55 PM: Message edited by: Hwilli ]

Free install on any 2000 or newer car with the purchase of said cat back. Check out the website for more detais, and thanks for looking. www.ipsmotorsports.net

You will need at minimum an engine hoist, and a basic set of hand tools. Jack, Jackstand ect. I personally would do my best to do this correctly the first time. Allow for ample downtime. Since this is the first time you are doing something like this (it sounds like) you WILL run into snags. I would safely say double your time estimate. Good luck, your car looks sweet, I hope the powerplant comes out to match it smile.gif .

Did I run into a buddy in the parking lot of Baskin Robbens this summer? I was driving a Black MKIV Supra. BTW we also do custom piping, and powercoating. You have a lot of people to chose from smile.gif

LOL Mark's just mad because he has to learn how to turn his own wrenches now smile.gif Did you actually pick up a MKIV? I see that you have "Future MKIV owner" as your car. If so congratz. Anyway, give us a call down at the shop so we can discuss exactly what you need done. Take it easy, Howard

You can also try parking it on an incline, or raisingt he front end at a good angle. The running the vehicle with the heater on. The air will travel to the highest point, which should be the radiator cap. Leave the cap off obviously, and add coolant as you can.

Told you it was a hose I'd put a ZIP tie or clamp on it to prevent it from happening in the future.

Sounds somewhat similiar to when a turbo car pops and IC hose. Check all your hoses? Do you have an OBDII Code puller?

If they ABS computer is on its own circuit, and the fuse is blown/it has no power, I believe this could cause the unit not to work, but not get a light.

Battery low? Try giving it a jump?

The Apexi Unit is not difficult to tune, but as with any fuel type tuning, it should be done with a wideband, and preferably on a dyno. Not 100% on the optimum setting for the VTEC switchover, I would assume that would depend on supporting mods. HTH, Howard

http://www.probetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1701064342&highlight=Transmission+Fluid

I think I can answer this, even if some of my information isn't 100% accurate. I have been warened away from Mobile 1 syth in a lot of different trannies. I have heard it is because that these particular trannys use Brass (?) syncros. This includes the V160 MKIV Supra transmission. Supposidly the Mobile 1 can damage the brass. Supposidly some other fluids cause swelling of transmission seals on the V160 as well, but I have never heard of this in other transmissions. I wish I could find the link where I read that... it may have even been for the Ford Probe 2.5l transmission. Regardless, only 2k miles I doubt it caused any major issues. Just put some dealer recommended fluid in it. HTH, Howard

I'd have to look at the install instructions on the unit. I am not actually famiilar with the exact product that you are using, but it just sounds like a monitoring tool. The Apexi units I have in my car (AFC, and AVC-R) have several monitoring functions, that are all tapped off the ECU. Airflow, Tach, 02, TPS etc. I can't tell you exactly without seeing the unit/instructions, but again, most of those units are fairly easy to install if you understand basic wiring. If you are not comfortable doing that type of install i am sure that someone on here would help you for a beer, small fee, lunch, whatever. and if not, there are a few shops in town that I'm sure would be willing to do the work for you smile.gif .

As long as it takes you to tap the speedo, and tach signals on the ECU. Then add power and ground. Shouldn't be a difficult install.

Yes, they are two different motors. 4G63 Mistu motor or 420A Dodge Motor.

That swap is not a direct bolt in...

What are your goals. Speed, or for it to just run?

You'll need an OBDII reader. So if you don't have access, then you have to take it in. Does Mark have anything you can use?

I am not sure on the 1st gens, but ont he 93-94 the ignitor module would go bad inside the distributor. Exactly as you described at first, but as it gets worse, the car would just shut off whenever the module would get to hot.

I'll talk to him tonight for you.