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Talk to Ricki (BigBabyJesus) on here. He can take care of you.

Mark, who runs it, just recently got his computer up and running.

Just read that a little closer. We installed a Buscher, not an Apexi. I THINK you should still be ok though.

I believe that it does. Though when we installed one on a friends car, he was using a Greddy, and we had to redrill one of the mounting holes.

Cool Bug graemlins/thumb.gif Let us know how the project turns out.

I was under the impression that did that to increase fuel economy.

I'll try my best to explain. Turbos are basically two fans on a shaft. One side (the hot side)is spun my exhaust gases. This in turn spins the shaft, which spins the other fan. This other fan (the cold side) is attached to the outside, it gathers up outside air and compresses it. This in turn goes to your intake. Basically you are artificially raising the compression ratio of the motor. More compressed air particles. As far as your carb comment, I don't know dick about carbs, so I am not sure how you would control fuel with boost. With EFI, people normally run a variable rate fuel preasure regulator. That will increase fuel preasure xxx per pound of boost. Also you have ECU tuning to control the fuel injectors. The amount of boost each turbo will push is controlled by the wastegate. The wastegate is kind of like a valve. It will control how much exhaust gas is going over the hot side fan. In this gate is a spring. The Spring has a PSI rating. That is the maximum boost the spring will hold before the exhaust preasure forces it open (and thus bleeds it off directly to the exhaust and out your tailpipe). You can trick the wastegate into thinking it has a bigger spring with a boost controller. You do this by adding additional preasure to the other side of the spring to help hold it closed against the exhaust preasure. Finally, the intercooler. When you compress the air it heats it up. Hot air is less dense than cold air, thus is not as effective for making power. The intercooler is plumbed after the turbo, and before the intake manifold in order to help cool down that heated up air. I hope this helps. I'm sure Brett or someone else will also pipe in smile.gif Howard

thanks much!

Thanks, That's a start. Now does anyone know where the MAT sensor is located at on this particular motor?

No, it knows I hate it, and now that it's my responsiblity, it's making me pay.

Well since we are muddling up the tech section with lot's of GM 3.1 Liter questions, I figured I would add my own. This is my fiancee's car, recently transfered into my name for insurance purposes. Wouldn't you know it as soon as it's mine shit starts to break. First it's leaking oil (fuck it add more) Then the steering feels really sloppy (probably doing this for awhile). Found part of the problem is the PS mounting bushing for the steering rack. Not 100% of the issue, but certainly part of it. Will investigate more this weekend. Then last night at 5:30am she is driving to work, and the temp needle starts bouncing between middle, and pegged. She calls me on the cell. I tell her to drive it home, I leave work to take her to work. Swapped the thermostat, and bled the coolant system. It seems fine now, but we'll see in the weeks ot come as it gets driven more. Finally I decided to pull the codes on it (it has a service engine light on for awhile) since I was out there dicking with it. I get a code 23. Sadly I have been up for quite some time, and I don't have the book in front of me now... so my wording won't be exact. I believe it was a manifold temp sensor. Low temp error. Anyone know where this sensor is located, and how to test it. If its not an important sensor (doesn't sound like it and the car runs fine). It will be another "fuck it" She is getting a new car in Spring anyway. Anyway Had to vent a little with my question. TIA, Howard

That is your best case scenerio. Cheap (2 bucks) and easy smile.gif

To my knowledge those motors leak oil commonly from three places. Rear Main Seal. a small oil pump O ring from a small plug where a distributor used to be (earlier versions of this motor ran a disti instead of coil packs, and instead of resdesigning the head, they just plugged the hole) . Can you tell approx where the leak is coming from? As far as why it's running shitty. You said you pulled the motor? My guess is you probably didn't put something back correctly. Start troublshooting, especially vacuum lines. A commonly missed one is the fuel preasure regulator. It's on the driverside of the intake manifold.

I am pretty sure those are metal. I am not aware that anyone makes an after market set. If you need them you are probably going to have to get them from Nissan. That is an odd question by the way. Why do you ask it.

A. Get the harness so you don't have to hack your ignition wires all to hell. B. If you can wire basic electronics, they are very easy. C. Some of the more feature laden models require extra connections for RPM, Speedo, etc. on the ECU 75 bucks for an HKS Type 1 is a smokin deal, but make sure you use the harness with it (~$25 bucks). See A. HTH, Howard

A. Check to see if the valve is leaking. B. Buy a vent kit, and run it back into the plumbing so it isn't venting to atmosphere. OR C. Run it in parallel with the stock BOV. This is what I did to prevent stalling issues. Stock BOV vents at lower preasure, aftermarket makes loud cool noises under high preasure.

Everything is 100% fixed. Alarm seemed to have "learned" in on it's own. RPM is programable. If you have the manual, it says how... RTFM . If not, post again and I'll put up instructions.

Yeah, it's blue. http://www.supras.com/sogi/techtips/4_electrical/4012_MKIII_mod_TT_with_alarm/index.html I actually don't have a keyfab. The alarm normally arms with the car off, and I lock the doors. I was hoping somewhat might just know, but it looks like i am going to have to go through the electrical manual on MKIV.com I also found out the manual tells how to calabrate the RPM.. RTFM!! Thanks for the reply.

I just finished up the wiring of my Turbo Timer today. Have a few issues. One is a general issue, the other is car specific. 1. The RPM display on the TT is wrong. It reads anywhere from 600-1000 RPMs to high. IO have two other units that read RPMs, and of course the TAC. All three are tapped at the ECU on the same wire. I originall had the TT tapped off one of my other units, but thought the extra wire may have caused additional resistance, so I moved it to less than an inch from the ECU itself. Still the same issue. My question is, has anyone else had this issue, and is there a way to calobrate it. I am not so much worried about it being wrong, but because it is, it makes me worry about the accuracy of the speed, and other functions. #2. The factory alarm no longer arms since installing the turbo timer. I found a tech article that relates to MKIIIs. It says to cut a certain wire on the TT harness, and you'll be fine. Not sure about on MKIVs though. I doubt anyone will know this one, but it can't hurt to ask. smile.gif TIA, Howard

Lot's of people.

Sounds right to me.

to tech

incorrect

I see two issues with this thread. First I see a guy giving advice when he obviously shouldn't be. 8.5 compression ratio is fine for a turbo application. As is 9:1. Many Turbo DSM guys will swap in the N/A motor short block for a little more low end (due to higher compression), and still run high boost. The only thing I am going to agree with you is "You might need better rods/pistons, but this is purley speculation as you obviously don't know the specific capabilites of the 3.1L he is using. Now on to the initial question. What maked you pick the specific turbo/engine/boost levels you are discussing? My guess is it's because you have easy access to those parts, and have heard that some other cars push that much boost on some other motor. My ADVICE is to do a LOT of research on your motor, it's capabilities, and then go from there. As previously stated you are probably going to need a built bottom end to run that much boost... though I do know that there was a factory turbocharged 3.1 in some Grand Prix, I don't know how much boost, or its specs... Also are you sure that turbo is a good match for the motor? It might be.. I don't know, and I am not doing your research for you tongue.gif or you could go the deep pocket route. Bolt everthing up, crank the boost and see if it blows smile.gif Ok I just went back and actually read your post. What you would NEED (IMO). Built shortblock. custom made manifolds/collectors. Turbo, and a fuel system. I would also RECOMMEND( but you said need) an intercooler of some sort, and all related (and probably custom made) piping. HTH, Sorry if I sound cranky. 2 more hours left in my 12 hour night shift smile.gif Howard