SamZman

nah. A friend works at Best Buy.

YEAH!!! Thanks a ton! It worked .. And you're right I see it in the manual now! It's called Reverse Mode. I don't know how I missed it .. http://www.acura-tl.com/forum/images/smilies/smackhead.gif Thanks for taking the time to check on that for me.

Yeah that's how you get to the other functions I mentioned.. I've tried messing w/ them all and nothing.. I may go to Best Buy again and take a look to see if the display does it.. or maybe someone there will know?.. Thanks for the help so far though, everyone. smile.gif

I've read the manual several times, and can't figure it out. . You can turn off motion, dimmer,change screensavers and adjust brightness but none of that stops the color from flipping..

I recently put in a Pioneer 7500 ( http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/product/detail/0,,2076_4039_1986137,00.html ) Anyways, it was fine at first but then it began to flash from black to a white screen. It stays black for exactly 10 seconds and reverses for another 10 seconds. I can read the display when it does this, but the colors are reversed.. and really it's just annoying. A friend has the same stereo and he says his does this too and it's normal.. It's just funny it didn't do it at first and I don't remember the display model at Best Buy doing this. I'm hoping I just wired something wrong.. Anyone know for sure?.. Thanks -Sam

Thanks guys. The noise is kind of a squeaking noise. Kind of like a loud power steering but a little higher pitched, and a little more violent/contact sounding.. I did try to fill it up and used the oil in it and it didn't do a thing. I really don't have time to work on it before she leaves. She's heading out of town with it shortly and I don't want her getting stranded somewhere..

My sister has a 97 Contour and the AC compressor is making some noise. I'm wondering what will happen if it goes out? I've been told that it may freeze up which would snap the belt and obviously cause some problems.. I've never had one go out on me and am wondering if anyone has any info??.. Thanks.

Qwk90GT is dead on. Joe, your car at idle w/ long tubes, big cam and cut-out open sounds OK. But I still think it sounds better thru the mufflers. A stock or near stock car w/ a cutout sounds bad(as in "not good"). It just sounds like the muffler fell off the car or some big ole truck w/out a muffler.. I definitely don't think it's worth the few horsepower...

Yeah, I agree.. I've never been a fan.

It's not much more difficult to find LT1 parts vs. a regular sbc. There are a few things such as one piece seal crank, intake and distributor differences which make those parts a little more pricey.. But there are plenty of places to find these parts. Are you looking to do a complete rebuild? Or keep this cheap? You can get an aluminum set of factory LT1 heads and have them ported, along with a cam and get some decent numbers. Along with a set of long tube headers and true dual exhaust and you'll be putting out quite a bit of power(~390rwhp).

Maybe the Mustang should put 2.73s in and pick up another 5 tenths? tongue.gif I think it's vague statements like that, that are confusing people. There are many different variables which need to be considered such as redline, tranny gearing, tire size, etc..

Do you have aluminum heads? That will make a difference. I have a friend that's ran 12:1 on pump gas w/ an LT1. If you don't have aluminum heads you should get by w/ pump gas at 11:1, but that may be right at the limit.

Going from a 40 roll the 4.10 gear would still have the advantage. The only time a 3.55 gear would be better would be if you were going for all out top end, or if the 4.10 gear would cause you to run out of 4th gear at a drag strip. There seems to be misconception that a 3.55 gear would be better on the freeway than a 4.10 gear. I guess that's cause some people would call the 3.55 a "highway gear" because of increased top speed.. Fact is a 4.10 gear will be faster at any speed till the car tops out.. If you were right at red line at the end of the 1/4 w/ the 4.10's that sounds perfect. Of course if you made any more hp you'd be running out of gear and forced to shift to 5th(which generally kills ET).. but then like someone else mentioned you could go to a little taller tire to solve that problem while also adding traction. Anyways.. your dad is right graemlins/slap.gif

a fuse? graemlins/slap.gif ... glad it was a cheap fix.

It's definitely a possibility. But it sounds just like when my pump went bad. The car didnt have a real good idle and refused to rev at all. It went out pretty quick too. I have a little air/fuel gauge so when I gave it any gas at all I could see it going completely lean..

Sounds like the fuel pump may be out.. Do you have a fp gauge?

I believe they are rated for 600flywhp, and I know of people runnin in the 500's at the wheels. Though I think running in the mid-high 500's for very long may be pressing your luck..

I said above I've put 40K miles on my car w/ the blower.. I'd have to sit around and think about it, but I think I was still in the 70K's when I put it on and am ~110's now.. to be honest I cant remember how many miles are on it right now..

It's not necessary to go w/ LT4 heads. Your ported LT1's will work quite well. You'll also need to get an LT4 intake if you wish to use LT4 heads.. I'd save the money and get your heads ported and factory intake port match. I have a friend running 11.7's w/ stock ported heads.. That cam is a streetable cam and I have a friend who could throw a program on it for ya for pretty cheap.. I'd really recommend just calling combination as slowgreencar suggests. They are really friendly and helpful guys, and can give you better advice as well as prices..

Figured I'd try my hands at this.. I've seen a similar one on 270E just past the Broad St Exit.. Hopefully this makes sense.. http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid79/pcc8800615ad524d934fa80030e776c87/fb19649a.jpg

I went the blower way first, but mainly because I got a good deal on it. Knowing what I know now and hearing all the stories of people burning holes in pistons w/ superchargers I would do it differently if I had to start over.. Even though I've gone ~40K miles trouble free w/ the supercharger there is a definite possibility that you would not be so fortunate.. If you do plan to go the heads and cam route (which I'd recommend)you might as well do it right. And by that I mean getting some ported LT1 or LT4 heads and a bigger cam such as a cc306.. you may wanna check out racenet.net (http://www.lt1f-body.racenet.net/valvetrain.php). Joe and Josh have both done this so they may help more..

yeah a leaky water pump is the culprit alot of the times.. The GM ones come w/ warranties.. not that it's fun to tear it down and do all the time. I've only had one actually go out and that was at ~90K miles..

There, Berto. Cleaned it up a bit. Hope you don't mind. Good luck w/ the prob.

Maybe try the pick-up coil? I know I had a miss in my GTA that kept getting worse and worse.. Of course it was throwing bogus codes when it went out. I know this is quite a few years ago but it was only 13 bucks. Problem is you have to take out the distributor...

Then I'd guess it's the neutral safety switch..