SamZman

Just thought I'd say sweet car and welcome to the site smile.gif

Yeah I'm curious too. You know where to find me... smile.gif

Ok. I'll be fiddling w/ my car on Friday. Assuming I have it back together I'll be around.

Jegs? Let me know what time you're gonna be there and I may swing by..

I'm currently borrowing my friends. He's tested it numerous times at Trails and it was either dead on or one tenth off.. Pretty darn good if you ask me. The mph will be high though because it doesn't average like a drag stip does.

That's not entirely true. It depends on what kind of engine you are rebuilding. Are you rebuilding your engines w/ stock type rings? My friends and I have had this discussion several times. Breaking in a car w/ roller lifters (ex:LT1) consists of breaking in the the rings. If you are running a good moly race ring you shouldn't have to worry about a break in.

The cam has 2 separate grinds. At a certain rpm the rocker will be directed to the more agressive design. Atleast that's the way I've understood it..

Yeah I'll agree. If you want to do it right you need to cut it out.. Otherwise it will eventually come back ..

If you think it's just the upper valve seals you wouldn't need to pull the heads. You just have to be able to remove the springs/retainers and replace the upper valve seals. Just make sure you don't take off the retainers and just let the valve fall into the cylinder. You can just use a compressor and pump the cylinders full of air. Or you could do it the old fashioned way and fill each cylinder up w/ a fine rope, crank the motor by hand till the piston/rope pushes the valve up so as not to fall. You can then take off the retainers, spring and replace valve seals.. I don't know if that made sense.. Does the car puff a little smoke on startup after sitting for a while? If so, that's general valve seals.. That's only if this is your problem. If you have bad piston rings then it's time for a rebuild..

I'll vote for throw out bearing. That is pretty cheap of them not to replace it while they have it out.. My friend had a 96 GT and had nothing but problems w/ the tranny. Darn t5's..

Brian, I have a friend who bought a chrome moly weld-in cage from Wolfe Racecraft. He needs someone to install it. It's this cage, 4130 Cromoly F-Body 6-Point Weld-in Roll Bar Kit, and there is more info here : http://www.wolferacecraft.com/pages/F-body_part/weld-in.htm It's supposed to be a clean install. You think you could ask him for a ballpark figure? Or do you have his number? Please email me at sam94z@hotmail.com or just PM me.. smile.gif Thanks, Sam

I'll agree with both of the above suggestions. You may also want to try Floyd's Hot Rods(pretty sure that's the name). They built a friend's cage which is 9 sec legal many years ago and he still has no complaints. I also doubt you'll get kicked out immediately. 2 friends of mine ran the entire season runnin 11's. You just won't be able to bracket race, which I doubt you were plannin on doing anyways .. But of course it is a good idea, especially if you already have the money..

Well I went by and grabbed the tap and die set. I just checked and it goes from ~6.5mm - 12mm. Is the head of the bolt 16mm or is the actual threading 16mm? If so I don't have anything that big. If you wanna check it out lemme know.. -Sam

I have the Craftsman metric tap and die set. I'm not sure all that are included in the set,so I'm not sure if I have the 16mm. My tools are at my dad's so I can go over there and check tomorrow if you haven't gotten it by then.

yeah most likely vacuum. A good way to check this is to take a can of starter fluid and spray on possible vacuum problem areas.

You gotta be kidding me, Shawn! Weren't you just joking about this happening the other night?! That is messed up.. What is your time frame on this project?

It should be pretty simple.. Explain what you think will be difficult from the directions and I'm sure someone can explain it to you..

Nice, Mark smile.gif I definitely have my own methods to detailing my car, but I'm sure this stuff should be helpful to alot of people. And besides, I'm always open to try something else..

QUOTE]What brand/size of drag radials are you guys using?[/QB] Bryan had the 275/60 15 BFG's I have 255/50 16 BFG's I have 275/40 17 Nittos w/out rims in the garage. I didn't care for them really. I didn't really heat them up like I did the bfg's so that may have been the problem. Nittos were much better in the rain. Other than that I prefer BFGs.

Yeah that's about right.. My roommate ran his at 14 and was runnin ~1.6 60's w/ an open rear end. I couldn't get my drag radials to hook until the tread was about gone. That's when they really start grabbing. I ran 15/16 also..

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by International Race Of Champions: But Sam couldnt you attribute the motor blowing to timing belt and not turbing up the boost? Thats atleast what I thought happened<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> You're definitely right, Jeff. I may have said that wrong(or maybe you read it wrong ), but the timing belt caused the motor to go. And that had nothing to do w/ boost, but that's another LONG story smile.gif But once you start turning up the boost or modding a dsm get ready to stick a new clutch in..

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Nitrousbird: (not to laugh at your misfortune.......) <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Yeah, Joe, you're never one to laugh at my misfortunes tongue.gif.. But actually the clutch did go first. The motor came in a close second

I'll 3rd the above and vote on clutch.. Atleast from your description. Time for an ACT clutch. The stock clutch was the first thing to go on my Talon once I turned up the boost

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by accorddood: so really what separated joe from the rest of them? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE> Probably the fact that he has an 11 sec timeslip tongue.gif

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by MR. EARS: Joe he was joking take a chill pill jeesh. smile.gif<HR></BLOCKQUOTE> I'm sure Joe was kidding around too tongue.gif But Kenny's post was pretty funny