SamZman

Well if he is gonna go full blown I don't think he'd waste his time w/ LT4 heads.. And I don't think they flow a LOT better.. maybe a non-capitalized "lot" at best. But ported LT1 vs ported LT4 heads aren't much different.. Matt, you are still being very vague about what you're shooting for tongue.gif . A 500,600 or even 700 rwhp boosted LT1 can be done quite reliably w/ a properly built bottom end and proper tuning..

Well then that's easy. LS1. I don't know how you can directly compare the reliability of a built LS1 and LT1 though. There are so many different setups,combos, builders, etc. that an even comparison is impossible. If you build either correctly w/ forged internals they will be able to handle about all you can throw at either of em... But the fact is I'm pretty sure money WILL be in the equation. It's not very realistic to think otherwise. You need to set a budget and then performance goal. Once you set a budget or $$ limit it's alot easier to make a comparison. For instance, if you set yourself a limit of $10grand on the engine you can work within that framework. You can price LT1 and LS1s engines and then heads/cams and stroker kits for each. And then you can take a look a power adders and such.. If you have a bottomless wallet and want to know which you can go the absolute fastest.. The simple answer is LS1. Obviously, it's a better engine. They took the LT1 and improved. Does that mean that an LT1 isn't able to reach your performance goals? I'd have no idea, but HIGHLY doubt it.. Anyways, again.. budget and goals. Then you can determine if it is realistic money wise to opt for an LS1 and if your performance goals will surpass what you can do w/ an LT1..

Is it definitely coming from the engine? Does it get faster or louder when you rev the engine in neutral?

I also agree that it's better safe than sorry, and you might as well break it in for 300-500 miles. I know Driveline One (who shortened a friends driveshaft) laughed when he mentioned breaking in his clutch.. And that's pretty much what they deal with .. Regardless.. again, better safe than sorry.. smile.gif

Well the lid would be a good first mod. I'll let the LS1 guys chime in w/ a more specific list of mods. I assume you meant 400 flywheel horsepower. He'll need to get into the engine with a cam to hit 400 rwhp.. Unless he goes the nitrous route.

The Nittos are really good in the rain when they are new till about half or a little less than half left. Once they get below that they can be a little scary in the rain. I used them for about 2 years of driving w/ some dragging mixed in. They didn't get bad in the rain till the end of the 2nd year. They still had some tread on them when I picked up a screw, and just gave em to Anthony. But they'd gotten to the point I was scared for my life when riding in the rain.

I agree with Hua. I hooked much better with BFGs but they didn't last nearly as long as Nittos. The Nittos are also much better in the rain. It depends on what you are looking for as to which one you'd prefer.

Or the even cheaper way and have someone with Tunercat de-program the skip shift. It's a little annoying at times but not a big deal.

Obviously factory converts are heavy due to reinforcements from the factory. I highly doubt a custom convert would go to the trouble of reinforcing the entire frame.

heavier? It definitely wouldn't be as stiff. I would think it would take an excellent body guy to custom build a convert w/out making it look silly.. But I'll shut up since my post isn't helping any. smile.gif Good luck.

I have Bridgestone Potenzas and really like them. I have 275/17 up front and 285's in the back. They do really well in the rain also,have lasted a while and still have a lot of tread.. and I think they look really good too. -->>> http://www.tirerack.com/tires/images/bridgestone/bs_re730.jpg I had the Dunlop 9000s and liked them, though I'm not sure if they were as good in the rain as the Potenzas.. I've heard a bunch of good things about the SZ50s but they are a smaller tire than Dunlop and Bridgestones. A friend has 285 SZ50s and they are smaller than my 275s.. That's the only reason I didnt get them..

Yeah that's all I use. It's pretty much the same price as Mobil 1. The only place you can get it (that I know of) is Jegs, but since Jegs is closer to me than any other store that isn't a problem. I have an old article in a Hot Rod Magazine ( I think that's the mag), that compares it to other synthetics. The Royal Purple tested considerably better than other synthetics. I've also read alot of good stuff about it on cz28.com so that's enough to sell me..

And I also don't think they are as hard to work on as people may think. Generally, the people saying this have never even worked on the car, or have very little experience. Heads and cam swaps aren't really bad at all and there also isn't anything too difficult w/ an entire engine swap. It's easy to pop the hood and say it looks crammed without actually working on it. I think it's worth the little extra trouble to have a car that doesn't look like a sedan smile.gif Oh, but to the original post. You didn't give us much to comment on. What heads are you going w/? Valve size, cc's? What cam are you thinking about getting? As already said you'll need injectors and maybe a fuel pump.

Well that could be a big problem. Tape it up with some electrical tape and it should be good. I know last year my car had a miss, was running SLOW and it turned out to be a burnt plug wire. I went from ~104 traps granny shifting, taped up the wire and went ~111 shifting easy..

You need to get out to a track to tell what it's doing for sure. I'm sure fuel isnt an issue though. Your mods don't warrant an injector/fuel pump change yet. And as said already a fp regulator is not necessary. I have a few mods more than you and don't have one.. Do you have a low temp thermostat? Fan mod? If not, I'd get those done. Heat will make it feel much slower.. Or do you feel a miss? If so explain. Still I say get it to the track.

It could be many things.. You may want to check the spark plugs and wires first..

I'd suggest a compression check also. Does the car miss or anything? My friend's Type R had a small miss and it turns out every cylinder was losing compression. His adjustable cam gear had broken and apparently his timing went out of whack and bent some valves. His car set some SES lights though. You don't have any SES lights? Misses? Rough idle? Or anything else? Here is something like you need from Sears. You'll need this tool and a compressor. I have an air compressor you can use if you get the tool. You'll have to copy and paste the entire thing: http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summary/productsummary.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0945533607.1027870937@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccidadcfkjkdjghcehgcemgdffmdfim.0&vertical=SEARS&bidsite=&pid=0090 2171000 [ 28 July 2002, 11:48 AM: Message edited by: SamZman ]

LOL.. Well you need to figure out how much $$ you want to spend and what you are wanting out of the car.

Yeah they do my and my friends machine work. Fowler Engines Inc 3021 Switzer Avenue Columbus, OH 43219 614-258-2924 Fax: 614-258-8279

I wouldn't think you lost that much low end w/ headers. Besides I'm sure it gained top end. These are 1 5/8 headers? Gears would help but I'm not a fan of gears in stock 4th gen rear ends. They are weak enough w/out fiddling with the gears. I've noticed people who change gears tend to break rear ends much quicker. If you are 6 speed then the 3.42 gear is a pretty good ratio from the factory.. What are you looking to do to your car? And how much are you willing to spend?

What kind of car is this? If this is a plastic one you may be out of luck. If it's not plastic I do know you can call radiator shops and have them weld it up..

If coolant is getting in the car it sounds like the heater core is busted. It's up under the dash, and generally not a lot of fun to change..

That seems a little extreme.. 5 oil changes for the first 500 miles! Fowler instructed my friend to : I guess better safe than sorry.. But as far as engine break in it depends on rings.. smile.gif

What kind of rings did you use? A race moly ring requires no break in. If you want to for your own piece of mind than I'd say 500-1000 miles, on non-synthetic oil. Then change and look at the oil...

My friend had the exact same thing happen to his Integra Type-R. Pushed the clutch in one day and it stayed down.. I assumed it was something hydraulic or more mechanical than a clutch. He just replaced the clutch anyways and it fixed the problem..