SamZman

It's an auto? Well that sounds like it may be the neutral safety switch then if that's the problem you were having..

I'm not the only one who doesn't read. tongue.gifgraemlins/pics.gif

Well if the starter isn't clicking I'd check that first. The starter is really easy to take out and run to Auto Zone to get checked..

He wants to remove the AC? The O2 Sensors bolt into the bottom of headers I believe.. What kind of headers is he getting? They really aren't hard to do at all. The toughest part is getting the rusted manifolds out. Just make sure you soak the bolts in WD-40 for a while.. And you will most likely have to get the Ypipe welded back up to the rest of the exhaust..

Agreed. May be overly precausious, but I may need them later so I don't wanna take a chance..

That's very sweet of you. http://216.40.249.192/s/otn/love/kotc.gif

I hate to make predictions.. And by time I get done buying what I need I'll be too broke to dyno anyways.

Well that should bump a Mustang outta the top 10, if I'm looking right.. One more f-body and they'll be even.. graemlins/bubbrubb.gif

It does sound like a fuel pump. I know when I've had them go out they had similar problems as far as not revving past a certain rpm.. Just check the fuel pressure. I had trouble shooting. Good luck.

Unfortunately, this is the route that he wants to take. He knows VERY little about cars and is just looking to add a little kick. I knew I'd get some of the "go turbo!" posts ,but I can't imagine him going that route.. I'll see though.. But that's what I'm mainly wondering if there is any difference in different cold air/exhaust kits.. and if chips are worth it on a N/A car.. Thanks for the help smile.gif -Sam

Sorry I should have added.. He doesn't have anything cool like the turbo.

I know there are a few VW guys on here that may have some advice. A friend of a friend has been asking me about which bolt ons he should try first to add a little power to his car.. Here's the e-mail he sent me.. He just wants the basic cold air, chip, etc..Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated... smile.gif

Thanks guys. It turned out to be a fusible link before the computer..

I've heard good things about these guys: Driveline 1 1369 Frank Road Columbus, OH 43223 614-279-7734

There is a guy at work who asked me if I had any ideas what may be wrong w/ his son's car. His son is pretty knowledgeable about cars but can't figure out why the car ,a 91 Dodge Shadow(2.2 4cyl) won't start.. He said he's checked and he's positive the car is not getting any spark and also no fuel. This happened all of a sudden and there was no warning signs.. The computer,ignition, and ignition coil was just changed and it didn't help.. Anyone have any ideas or suggestions I could throw his way? ... Thanks. Sam [ 23. May 2003, 09:08 AM: Message edited by: SamZman ]

generally you'll have the car in gear.. give it gas, and the rpms rise but the car doesnt or hardly accelerates.

I've also heard piston slap happens in some LS1's, so I'm pretty sure that's what he's hearing. He may want to take it to a dealer if he's really concerned. It's not detonation, and I don't think it's being caused by the lower octane gas. If the car is detonating upon startup and when the car's idling and cold he's got serious problems. I know Lee Howie recommends that people run 87 octane in LS1s... He said that's all he runs in his daily driver C5 and claims to gain a tenth or two..

A friend of mine ("STOCK 95") had an auto C5 w/ heads/cam and nitrous. He blew up the tranny atleast 3 times before he totaled the car and went back to f-bods. I think it cost like ~2,500 bucks each time. He swears against auto C5's, though I have seen a couple fast ones.

700R4 is the same thing as a 4L60, so the strength is the same..so refer to your other post

I know once you get in the lower 12's a stock tranny wont last long at all. I'd suggest getting it built. Depending on how fast the car is you'll just be constantly rebuilding if you put a stock one in..

Well very minor scratches. It usually takes care of the swirl marks like Joe's talking about assuming they aren't too harsh, not as good as the micofinishing or thicker rubbing compound of course. If you have a high speed buffer with a polishing pad (foam 3m kind) the Hand Glaze works pretty good, but it's REAL easy to burn thru pain w/ the polishing pad. And yes Joe your car could use a good polishing. But you know you'll have to wash it first. Have you seen Jason's car since I did a quick buff and polish on it last weekend. It looks a LOT better, and we really didn't work on it that long. You can borrow my buffer sometime if you want.

Good points. I'd still recommend the 3M hand glaze, and it's not necessary to use any buffer with it.

I recommend getting some 3m rubbing compound and polish. If this is an industrial buffer you need to be careful if you've never used it before because you could burn off the paint. If it's the the orbital type "polisher" you will probably be ok. I just found this on the net though, since you seem to be pretty new to this: I'm not sure what type of pad, or "head" you are using, but buffing with rubbing compound is usually done by this : http://www.smarnold.com/Media/58-487.jpg Napa is the only place I know of that sells 3M polishes.. You may want to just start with 3M microfinishing compound, and then get you some 3M hand glaze to shine it up. I never really had much luck with an orbital buffer though so if that's what you're using (and a 10inch is most likely orbital), maybe someone will post some helpful tips on that..

Yes, good points and that's what I was referring to.. I wasn't putting down your dyno or anything. smile.gif

1%? I doubt Bryan's dyno is even that consistent w/ the same car on different days...