Trouble Maker

City code limit is 720 sq.ft. and that's already 745 sq.ft ignoring the lofted workshop space. Having gone to the zoning and variance committee meeting I'd say we are already pushing it and going up to a 4 car 22'x40' (880 sq.ft.) on 1st floor alone will be a no go. I'm going to the next (commission/council) meeting Thursday so we'll see how that goes, they may be more lenient. Just trying to make the most out of the space that we are allowed. With the lofted workshop space I'll be able to put many of the larger tools up there. If needed I can put the air compressor up there too and run lines throughout the garage. All big yard tools are in a shed, but we'll likely get a bigger one down the road and put all yard tools in there. Other than bikes and a tool box this won't leave a ton needed to be stored on the 1st floor. I also really like the idea of putting an outdoor kitchen out there in the future. We definitely need to talk before we get too much further. We are planning to match the house roof, siding and gutters. Do you not do (whole) garages this size/scope?

Building and selling a house to do it again 2-3 years later, that sounds exhausting.

Did you just build a new house within the last few years, or is this that same project?

3' is just my understanding and could be wrong. I think many of these details depends on specific (zone) area, what it's zoned as and/or are there in a special/historic district. Here I believe habitable space is 5', but something like a garage is 3'? I read this as saying 3' is the minimum for garages in R-3, we are in an R-3 district. https://library.municode.com/oh/columbus/codes/code_of_ordinances?nodeId=TIT33ZOCO_CH3332REDI_3332.26MISIYAPE Section E "Notwithstanding above subsection (A), (B), © or (D), as the case may be, the required minimum distance of a detached garage from the interior side lot line shall be three feet." I need to discuss this details with construction and architectural firms, but this is me trying to get my ducks in a row before I do and see what I'm missing or good ideas others have.

You're generally on the right track with utilities. My original plan was to run all utilities (natural gas, electric, water and sewer) to the garage. Then we can have a small bathroom, gas for heat. Eventually this would enable the outdoor kitchen too. I'm debating on gas now, since my latest plan is to do a (DIY) mini-split and that'll get us both heat and A/C. So for now the gas wouldn't be used, but might be with the kitchen or fire pit. Struggling with the idea of installing gas for a maybe down the road. Most of what I want to do with the outdoor kitchen is cooking over real fire. Gas line for fire pit would just be to make it easy to start wood logs, but that's easy enough most of the time anyway. I'm getting mixed info on whether water and sewer is OK, but it's our (strong) want so I'm going ahead with that plan and if it's not possible we'll cross that bridge then. I doubt propane tanks are OK in city limits, but I don't see a realistic situation to use it anyway. See above, if we need gas we'll just run an natural gas line from inside. When we redid the electrical system I installed a panel with a manual changeover, power connection on the side of the house and 8kw (gas) manual generator. That's enough for what I envision ever needing.

This would be our only garage, replacing and in a similar spot as a 1.5 car that already exist. You can see it in the first pic, site constraints, listed as Garage. Here's old versus new, old in black and new in red. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1090&pictureid=9930

What should I do differently here? Some considerations. We are limited by site constraints as well as city code. Code dictates <15' high and <720sqft. We'll likely be asking for variance on both, but have to be considerate about what will or won't pass. Height seems like not a huge issue, size (plus plumbing plan) seems more difficult at the local level. Additionally we want it to work (very) well with our site, future plans as well as architectural match the house. This means a lower roof pitch parallel to the road, as well as ~19' max height. The current house peak is around 19.5'. We want to keep a pass through to the back yard. We also want a bathroom, height for a lift & lofted workshop space. I've made some rudimentary sketches to coalesce my ideas as well as facilitate conversations with construction and architectural firms about feasibility. These are our basic site constraints. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1090&pictureid=9925 And basic image of new garage and driveway. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1090&pictureid=9926 Rough dimensions from the side view. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1090&pictureid=9927 This get's us enough height for a lift on the back right http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1090&pictureid=9928 And lofted workshop space on the back left. http://www.columbusracing.com/forums/picture.php?albumid=1090&pictureid=9929 What do you think, any good ideas about what to change or do differently?

My plan is to build my dream garage, we'll see how far we get down that rabbit hole within the year.

MT or DCT?

Congrats! Can't wait for the CR Meats at your brick & mortar location!!! That ramen place must not have lasted very long, Google street view still shows a FasLube there.

For everyone's sake I hope you don't walk in on him playing Beat the Saber.

:thumbup: So saying Simpsons screws is kind of like Kleenex or NAWZ. BTW Kerry or anyone, this is the type of product we are talking about. You should be able to find some 'lag alternative' at just about any hardware store. I'm sure there are a dozen brands making them and maybe even more than one option at each big box hardware store, so this is just one example. https://www.fastenmaster.com/products/timberlok-heavy-duty-wood-screw.html https://www.fastenmaster.com/products/headlok-heavy-duty-flathead-fastener.html It seems like all 3 big box hardware stores stock those. And another kind of head, thought I'm not sure when is the 'proper' situation to use which type. Maybe Adam can chime in. https://www.fastenmaster.com/products/timberlok-heavy-duty-wood-screw.html I'm generally in love with these no pre-drill fasteners that also have a better drive system. They are so much easier to use, especially with a cordless impact driver. I might still pre-drill in this case, seems like it would be less likely to split especially if there was already a defect in the board. But that could be the wrong thing to do, pre-drilling and removing material may make the bond weaker. I bet even with a non-ideal bond just one of these would hold that go-kart, and since you'll have to use a few it should definitely be a non-issue.

I feel like every single one of these sold is going to be used as a dingy on a superyacht.

This is almost (exactly) what I was going to say. 3/8" in the skinny part of a 2x4 is asking for trouble. I've used boxes of structural screws around the house and the work way better and easier than old school lags. I've used a bunch of Headlok's around the house. Any reason you're specifically saying the Simpson product? Wondering if I should switch it up for any future projects. Also, which product from Simpson? I'm having a hard time finding anything specific when I search for (Simpson) Tech Screws. Honestly I'll trust whatever you suggest, I believe you know your stuff in this area. I'm just trying to find the specific product you're recommending. We are starting to move forward on a (non-typical) garage, I should talk to you at some point. :nod:

Shirley that one can't be serious. What am I missing, this is a $50k msrp car right?

Looks like MSRP is ~$110k with the stated (carbon parts + carbon breaks) and easily visibly discernible options (those seat are a $6k option). A 30% market on a car with probably very limited availability and (very) long wait time in today's market is probably pretty normal. Depending on how limited the Blackwing run is, they could already be al gone. $145k seems crazy to me, but it doesn't seem unrealistic given everything stacking up in favor of a high price on a car like that.

I'm guessing just about anything you get will do what she wants. So I would focus on finding a brand/line/model with good reliability history or ratings. I don't have much beyond using ThinkPad's at work and they are (really) good. But I'm sure there are other options out there that are also good. Full HDMI port is nice for external monitor, but maybe most are that way now? For a while it was VGA, then display port, then mini-display port. Maybe there was another one in there. Needing adaptors, a different one every time I got a new PC, can be a pain if you're moving around the laptop much. Regular old full sized HDMI seems much easier. Though I imagine if/when everything goes USB-C laptops may only have that and you'll need I spilled water on mine (ThinkPad) earlier this year, and it's got the supposed spill resistant setup; water resistant keyboard and draining chassis. It took the keyboard out, but they are easy to replace, and the laptop itself after drying out for a weekend was fine. We move around a lot including getting in and out of and driving around (sometimes aggressively) cars. Some people do that basically for most of their job and/or travel a lot. I used to do cold chamber testing. These things are solid in that environment, so I trust them just about anywhere. IMHO if you need a ToughPad at this point you're just abusing the device. I'm sure they have their use cases, especially if it's a 'must work' situation.

Places should test TVs out of the box (only) and talk about how horrible all of them are so the the companies that make TVs will start putting accurate/consistent settings on them from the factory. It probably wouldn't be too costly from them to do unit-by-unit calibration at end of line. They very likely already do testing and the same/similar equipment could calibrate them. The pannle maker probably also test, and those results could probably be used to make a pretty good setting.

This is the future we wanted but instead we are getting the one we deserve.

They just told me they don't like you either.

We have this impression here that US license is super easy to get, but other countries are much harder, and often more expensive. My experience in Japan is that this is true. However the thought I just had was that in Japan, and many other countries, they have tiered license based on motorcycle engine size. This tiering at least in Japan doesn't exist for cars, and at least the test that I took as someone 'transferring' a license was more about you following a procedure rather than real actual driving skill. So still someone in Japan can get a license without too much real skill**, and given enough money buy something just as fast as the highest tiered motorcycle. Here it's even worse, most licensing test are kind of a joke. We are in a different situation where in many places in the US to exist in society you have to be able to drive*, so I get why we don't put such high barriers to auto licensing. Situations like this make me wonder if just anyone with enough money should be able to buy a super or hyper car, or even just a relatively high powered sports car. How would anyone here feel about tiered auto license levels? *Side note, this is part of why I'm a huge fan of designing cities and society more generally around or adapting to multi-modal transportation that gives people the choice and ability to pick how they want to get places. I could probably write walls of text unpacking a ton of the rest of above on other levels, but I think you all get what I'm trying to get at. **To be fair I didn't know anyone with any cars like this, so there may be other barriers I'm unaware of. I did have a group member with the higher tier motorcycle license and a BMW1000RR and we had some good conversations about it's (lack of) usability there.

Not sure if serious.

Unfortunately can't do Columbus Cars & Chicken, Cane's doesn't open until 10am.