nocab72

When I cruise down the freeway @ what reads 50Mph on my speedo, I'm going faster than everyone else, guessing about 72mph. When I watch the odometer between mile markers it only rolls .7 of a mile. Motorex's answer is: "There is conversion box behind the speedo. The conversion box is to convert KM speed to MPH. We use a MPH speedo in your car and we accident put in the conversion box to. Its just wire spliced behind the dash. If you remove it. Should be fine." I'm scared, anyone wana come over, tear my dash apart and start snipping wires that look like they might be connected to this mysterious conversion box surely labeled in japanese!?! K

THOSE TIRES SUCK! Try SO-3's or Toyo Proxy T1-S's. The T1-S's had great dry grip and did very well in the rain as well. K

of course he ignored you, he probably heard how slow of a mechanic you are...might not ever get that adapter back... lol K

I run hawk HP+ in the front and HPS's in the rear to give a bit of front brake bias. My car isn't as heavy as yours, and I had the fronts smoking my 3rd session at the track @ putnam raceway in April. They gave plenty of warning as they were fading though which made me feel comfortable. Putnam is a fast track, I was hitting 130Mph on the main straight. The HP+'s will squeel, but very very softly at low speeds if you break them in properly, and they dust pretty heavy. If brake dust is an issue, you might want to look into the EBC greens? But if you need the stopping power keep looking at the hawks, HP+, blues and evantually the blacks when you are pushing extremely hard. K

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don't bother asking, just borrow whatever you'd like while I'm out of town... K

who's gonna pimp their AFC to Mark? My PFC has already been pimped out... K

The car is light... K ok, maybe not THAT light

and for us sucky draggers a top 25 MPH list too...(cause I'll never go faster than a 12sec 1/4) k

http://www.discounttiredirect.com/ They have a warehouse in Columbus, free shipping to your door. k

No sticky solenoids, no major screen problems, just your typical LCD lathargic response in cold temps. Finicky as it requires "gain adjustments" when there are major temperature changes to hold boost to the set level. Dual as in it uses a dual solenoid mechanism which is supposed to provide quicker and more stable boost control. Sequential as in it has the intelligence to deal with sequential turbo setups. K

I've been using the Blitz SBC-ID. For the most part it has been very stable. It has however gotten finnicky on me twice in extreme cold weather. I plan to flush mount the powermeter and SBC-ID modules in my drivers side visor eventually. Just looking for an extra visor I can send to a shop to get chopped up. K

step 1, get the right tools you'll need at a minimum a) dyno time b) a wideband (usually can be provided by your fav dyno tuner) - our fav dyno master is Brian, mr mobile dyno himself - see this thread -- http://www.columbusracing.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=12;t=000594 step 2 Get your car on the Dyno, make a run, look at your graphs of hp, and a/f ratios, and click the little buttons up and down on your new toy (AFC) until your ratio is near target across the rpm range. compare your first dyno graph to your last dyno graph and smile at the gained HP increase - all done. Not alot of magic to it when you are just tweaking AFR's via a device like the AFC. Bring me a standalone ECU (Motec, AEM, PFC, Haltech) and then we can start having fun... smile.gif K

if it will fit in my engine bay, I'm down...otherwise I'll stick with my 89ci 13b w/race ported intake and exhaust, dual ball bearing, water cooled GT35/40, and too much electronics... smile.gif K

FedEx brought me a present today... http://flathat.woodstream.net/RX7/Nitto_NT-555RII/ K

Although drag strip sticky is great, I already have ET Streets for those days, my search is for the most streetable tire that is significantly sticker on the street than a Toyo or S03 Z rated performance street tire and will last 10k miles (assuming some abuse). K

I called the number on their site. When they said "in stock in town" I assume they mean a local Discount Tire, ya. I was quoted about $160/tire, plus $15/tire to heat cycle. So $175 - 180/each. That is pretty cheap if you ask me. Hua covered the heat cycling question pretty well. K

http://discounttiredirect.com has them. The guy I spoke to seemed to know what he was talking about and said a friend of his just put a set of these on his Vette and loves them. The only two sizes he said they offered were: 275/40-17 and 305/35/18 He said he thought they used to make a 315/30/17 but no longer do. Adam the guy from Discount Tire Direct refered to the tire as the "Nitto 555R Extreme II" and knew the different between that tire and the standard Nitto DR, the 555R. He also recommended anyone purchasing these tires (or the Nitto DR) to have them Heat Cycled, I believe he said it was $15/tire, even though Nitto says it isn't necessary. Shipping is free, they have the 275/40-17 in stock in a warehouse in Columbus, so there are taxes on the tires. That's all I've got for now. K

A 315/35/17 has been fitted on the 3rd gen RX7, a small modification to the trailing arm to provide rear clearance and rolling of the fender is required, but damn do they look mean. A 275/40/17 is a near perfect match for my application. Thanks for the info! I'll do some digging and see what other info I can find, will post for all. K

You are correct, Kenny did pull on me once before, but that was over 200rwhp ago... You Buick guys need to stop fantasizing about history that won't repeat itself... K

What does "closer to the 12's" coming from a Saturn driver mean? 15's instead of 16's? K

Thanks again for the info on the Nitto's but this review sold me on the BFG's. ------------------------------------ Vehicle: 1992 Saturn SL Location: Houston, TX Driving Style: Fast and Aggressive Driving Condition: Mostly Highway Reviewer's Overall Ratings: insufficient data out of 10 Review Submitted 2000-05-01 I race my Saturn SL (75hp NOS) about once every 2 months. I bought my Drag Radials for the Strip only and use my regular street tires for every day driving. The traction once heated up is unbelivable. My burn outs last maybe 3-6 seconds before the Drag Radials start pulling into the staging area even with the emergency brake all the way up. When going up to the 100hp shot of NOS it was my clutch (maker not specified / dual friction) that lost contact before the tires. I will keep using these tires until I get closer to the 12's and feel the need to go to all out slicks.

I ran my Nitto's for over a year of daily driver use and probably 30-40 passes (guestimation, I really have no idea how many) down the strip. I put 8,610 miles on mine (then I sold those rims). When I got rid of them, the belt was just starting to show in the center, with the outsides still having some tread left. Many people don't realize that these tires need to be ran at a lower pressure than your average street tire to get an even treadwear. 24psi is actually a good pressure to run on the street with these. I made the mistake of running 28-30psi, and they wore out in the centers first. Of course no snow use (I'm not suicidal), but I never had a problem in the rain with them, even when they were worn down....car was my daily driver at the time. Dunno, driving in incliment weather never really bothered me, though. I also abused the piss out of these tires. Had I used the proper tire pressure, I woulda got 10k out of them before the belts shown I'm sure, maybe a bit more. Had I not used them at the track, w/ the proper tire pressure, 15-20k is possible (remember, you drive these PAST the wear bar....they are sticky even when they are bald). Actually, my next set of tires will be similar, though I'll be getting the 555 Road Race tires (it is a Nitto DR w/ a stiff sidewall). Kyle, you may actually want to consider these instead. </font> Joe, thanks for sharing your Nitto experience. I've been looking at the "Nitto NT-555R Extreme Drag Radial" as listed here: http://www.nittotire.com/tire_nt555r_overview.asp Is the Nitto DR w/ stiff sidewall something else? I see no mention of it on their site, any information would be enlightening. Thanks! K [ 14. January 2003, 03:52 PM: Message edited by: 100% Rice ]

Sam - you say 2 years on the Nitto's. How many miles is that for you? Anything near Nitto's claimed streetlife of 15k? I burned though a set of Toyo Proxy T1-S's (300 treadwear rating) in 8k miles and 10 trips down the strip (little to no burnout). Those were $255/tire tires, comparable to S03's. If I can make that same 8k miles out of a set of DR's for 1/2 the price per tire and have the benefits of additional DR traction I'm all over it. Of course there are very few 18" DR's so I'll be shopping for a set of 17x10's for the rear to replace the 18x9's I currently have... K

lol...I thought "crushed" was some crappy brand of BOV I had just never heard of...lol...guess I'm not up on my DSM lingo... K