nocab72

I'm coming after both you dyno queen biotches... smile.gif K

Extra volume of air in your "compressed system" (due to the larger displacement of the new intercooler) that needs to be expelled via BOV may require BOV adjustment, yes. K

one of two things is happening: 1) your BOV isn't large enough to "release" enough air to prevent compressor surge. 2) your BOX is large enough, but you have it set too tight (try loosening it) BTW: since you probably don't know what compressor surge is, or you would have reconnized the sound, it's what happens after you let off the throttle (closing throttle body, etc) and the boost pressure you have built pushes back against the turbo...that makes the sound you describe as "flutter". Some people say it is bad for the turbo, others say it won't hurt them. Personally I can see how pressure thrusting back against a turbo could benefit the turbo's longevity, so I try to avoid that ugly fluttering sound w/my car... smile.gif K

The gerbils that power it are probably just still hungover. Let them rest a few more days and I'm sure it run better then. K

Rob and Mark you are correct, Tony and I both have the TechEdge DIY OZ WB. You can purchase the units already assembled (me being an EE, knew that is the best way to do it...lol) After working a few kinks out, the TechEdge WB has proven very accurate. Just a note, we don't "tune" off the LED display, we log runs with datalogging software, then make fuel changes based on the logs. Impossible to watch a digital display, the tach and remember where things were a bit lean or rich, etc... reviewing logs after a run absolutely rules... K

I've got a friend (yeah, he's an idiot, but a crazy sun of a bitch that would kill someone for me if need be) that acidentally put alot (4 gallons) of kerosene in his car on an empty tank. </font>He's only a crazy SOB if he tried to start it afterwards...would it even have started with straight kerosene... probably not...lol k

you never come out and play with us any more Howard, so I've gotta pick on you via the forum... K

No, actually, I'm looking for a beater... EDIT: dolt, that wasn't very nice... sorry Howard! K [ 10 December 2002, 01:48 PM: Message edited by: TheSnackThatLikesToSnack ]

Can I buy what's left? K

550/1600

I sized my injectors for 550rwhp with plenty of cushion, but in the colder temps plus the extra 1000rpm I've got now (9000rpm redline) I've seen INJ duty cycles hit 100%... I'm either 1) > 550rwhp (doubt it at only 17psi) 2) the cold temps really chew up the fuel 3) my fuel pressure needs turned up a tad... 4) I'm gonna need larger injectors, soon... My educated guess, 2 & 3. 4 is certain. K

I think I found my answer. http://www.srmotorsports.com/srfuel.html An adjustable raising rate fuel pressure regulator is another important part of the system.This will compensate for boost in turbocharged cars.(It gives you a 1-1 ratio of boost psi and fuel psi increase) We also sell an adjustable rising rate regulator (R.R.R.) which will add more fuel per pound of boost (sometimes up to 4-1 ratio) to allow you to run higher boost safely. FPR = 1:1 RRFPR = 1:1 or > 1:1

Talking FRP's in general, my application is SX in particular. 1) My instincts tell me that a FPR, like the SX FPR allows one to set the base fuel pressure, the "regulator" just keeps that fuel pressure constant. 2) A RRFPR, would do more than regulate fuel pressure at a base rate, and raise the fuel pressure based on boost (manifold) pressure, typically 1:1. I have the SX FPR, BUT it has a vaccum line which goes to the manifold...this tells me its reading the manifold pressure for SOME reason, and I assume it's to raise the fuel pressure based on manifold pressure, but that contradicts my instincts from #1. I guess my real question is, does SX make two different fuel pressure regulators, one FPR and one RRFPR, and if so, what are the specific features of each? Their website doesn't have jack for info... Thanks in advance! K

Pineapple juice is only for rotaries, doesn't work well in the boingers... K

Orange juice or grape juice? K

stock motor - 387rwhp/308rwtq, 2,750 (est) Will be a little while on numbers for the new motor + more bewst, but I wanted to participate... K

Did you check to make sure your map sensor didn't come disconnected? MAP Sensor = small black box on drivers side, 1" x 2" x 1/2" mounted to the firewall, writing on it probably says DENSO, and possibly "pressure", or "boost pressure". Should have a black hose plugged in the bottom. Symptoms sound like a disconnected map sensor. I would recommend NOT taking it to Passen *OR* a Mazda dealer. What part of town is your car in? BTW: Who are you? K

my .02, BB turbo's are typically more expensive to rebuild if they are rebuildable at all. k

Got NE engine bay pics? *trying to visualize* K

I wouldn't know anything about :cough: FPR's :cough: -- SX is popular with the dorito peeps. Do the poopra's use a 1:1 RRFPR as well? K

CarTest 2000 is an automobile maximum acceleration computer simulation. The program uses the specifications for an automobile to mathematically accelerate the car from a standing or rolling start until maximum speed is reached. The simulation is time-based and event-driven. That is, the acceleration times are not explicitly calculated but, rather, time progresses at small increments and the usual events that take place during acceleration: clutch dump, wheelspin, shifting, etc. happen in proper course. The acceleration times are arbitrary milestones that are reached during the car's response to these events. http://www.cartest2000.com k

The thumbrule I use is 7lbs == 1hp. Dropping 7lbs equates to adding 1hp. I say dropping 38 lbs is equivalent to 5.4hp a gain. Have you tried this in CarTest2000 yet? ie drop off 70lbs one car and add 10hp to another, assuming identical cars see if it yeilds eq performance. or 700lbs / 100hp, etc then adjust until they are equal, that should give you a good estimate! K

From your picture, it looks like getting a larger turbo may help the vibration problem too...heheh j/k looks like a nice setup! K

The recommendation from ACT/Racing Beat on my Clutch/Flywheel were "moderate driving for the first 300 miles". My interpretation of moderate driving is no WOT, no side stepping, and no excessive slipping. K

I had to reposition my AC Condensor and move a bunch of AC lines around for my FMIC installation. I did not have to disconnect anything or discharge. My AC lines were pretty flexible and I just bent them with basic tools (my hands and a couple of wrenches). Depending on how many bends and how far you need to move stuff, just bending/moving without discharging could be an option for you, it was for me. k