BiG BeN

drop the steering column to the floor and get all the bolts out you can see.take out the guage cluster,glove box, and everything in the center console. don't forget the big screws up by the windsheild.it should wiggle right out. if there are only a few screws/bolts that you missed they will probably break off.

mine has an auto function...i also do the cool down thing through my neighborhood(not nice to rip the tires off through there anyway) i don't think it has ever ran for more than 2 minutes.usually it's between 1 and 1.5 minutes. more than that and the fan kicks on.

www.burnsstainless.com

intake pipe should be pretty easy.odds are you just need to midify the one you're getting.and it doesn't hold boost.so extra silicon connectors won't hurt. if you need a filterplate for the Z32 i got a real nice one with a filter off ebay for >30$

dave dowdy of topsecret cylinder head technology is great. just sucks trying to track him down.thats all the info i have. if you find him post up here and let us know where he's hiding.

lets not disregard other inportant safety preacuations as well. including but not limited to.safety glasses,fall arrest,resue plan,MSDS,tailgate meeting and kevlar gloves. also heat shrink that connection.

if you want to use them you could call dazz and see if you can order wider rear/or front sections for them.don't know how much it would cost.but you could have whatever width you want. edited stuff: i have extra C2 parts but they are 18" i'm a dumbass

don't put much into what others tell you.they aren't the ones driving it. if you like it cool...just consider that any money you put into it is GONE when you sell it.mods will not make the car more valuable, so it may as well be gone.

definitly not a good "my first car project",but it'll cost you an arm and a testicle to get it done professionally.if you have another car and a garage w/tools to work in you could probably get it done.just might take awhile depending on how much freetime and patience you have.

if it's a piece...and you know it's a piece.then don't start dropping cash on it.you'll never get any satisfaction out if it.makes busted knuckles and entire paychecks spent nothing more than a waste. but all is not lost. sell it and buy something you like.doesn't have to be new.there are some cool cars out there for cheap.just gotta look.

the more turns in you crank it down the more force is required to open it. so if you're having a boost leak problem, tighten it up.if you have a compressor surge issue then loosen it up.

on the greddy there is an adjustment screw right on the top with a jamnut on it..loosen the jamnut and tighten it to make it "harder". loosen it to make it "softer". BTW it says that right on top of the valve.

it'll be useful when i find that .6liter stroker kit.

http://www.sdsefi.com/

getting behind the cluster probably isn't a big deal. i've had mine out a few times. i can switch a bulb in 5 minutes or less i'm pretty sure our dashes are similiar, for mine i just had to remove 4 10mm bolts to drop the column, and about 6 + head screws to get the trim, and cluster out. http://www.members.aol.com/extheflow/airbag/aablg4.jpg see it is the same

you could search over at www.ohiohondas.com there are a few guys there with junkyard turbo setups. also unless you're getting cams or something there's really no need to play with the vtec engagement point you could use an SAFCII for more control over the fuel adjustments.

ecu shouldn't need any love, other than pulling a little timing for a huge shot.

if you do decide to put a switch in there make sure you put the switch on the coil of the fuel pump relay. not on the power supply of the pump itself(unless you want to use a big high current switch)

graemlins/bsflag.gif ehh a big hybrid turbo will NOT spool like a t25. unless of course you're shooting nitrous in there from about 800RPM i say run it with the t25 for awhile, if it's not big enough he can always upgrade to a GT series turbo with the same manifold(assuming that he doesn't screw himself with turbo placement)

that doesn't nmake much sense...closed/open loop should be dependent on engine load i.e. TPS problem. then again it wouldn't be the first time GM has done something i didn't understand.

ehh..figure out what standalone it is and consult the manufacturer as to wich sensor to use.if it is the proper sensor and it's not jacked you may have communication problem with the laptop/palm/commander or whatever else you may be using to tune with. i had a similiar situation when first trying to setup my wideband, serial connection was jacked on the laptop,cuasing some pretty retarded a/f values to be displayed.switched laptops(nothing else) and got a normal display.

for most car you can buy a loaded hub from the dealer and save some headaches, the cost difference may not be worth it for you though as i imagine they are probably aluminum on a MKIV($$$) on my 240 the cost difference between a hub and just a bearing was about 30$ so i did that.

you mean a warning light? or the actual parking brake is being engaged? if it's just the warning light sounds like the fuild is low in the reservoir. if it's the brake coming on.....well then you're screwed.

you mean a warning light? or the actual parking brake is being engaged? if it's just the warning light sounds like the fuild is low in the reservoir. if it's the brake coming on.....well then you're screwed.

toyo proxes t1-s are outstanding tires. might be pushing your price limit a little though.