Dave1647545494

yeah ghostbusters is old like me but its still funny smile.gif

haha

Thats Slimer from the movie called Ghostbusters and he's drinking a 40 of colt 45.

that was different

WE REALLY HATE YOU BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

I hate everyone equally, except you Ryan nobody hates you.

I can get 3/4" stuff. I'd have to price it but the last time we bought some it was about 30 bucks a sheet. you have to really buy in volume to get any kind of price break on the stuff. with all the hurricanes and tidal waves in 2004 the price of wood has almost doubled. I can't really get a firm price untill right before you want it becuase it fluctuates alot.

so are they rebuilding the engine again or just cleaning it up and installing it for you? I'd try to get some kind of specs on whats inside of it so you know just how far you can push it before it goes boom. smile.gif

you have to pick a cam based what you plan to do to the car. you kind of have to match the parts. while cam A works in one car it may not work in another with an identical engine used in a different type of racing. IE you don't want a full on drag cam in your roadrace car becuase it won't use the power band right. theres some rules of thumb but nothing is really set in stone becuase applications vary between different kinds of motors. lobe separation (i'll call it tight or loose) is the distance in degrees between the top edge of the intake and exhuast lobes on each cylinder. a tight cam is going to have lobe centers that are 110 degrees or less apart a loose cam would be 110 degrees or more stock cam profiles usually come in in the 110 to 114 range then you have lift most of your stock cams are at about .400-.500 lift and have a power band from right off idle to 5k or 6k rpm and then they fall off the more you lift you have the more air you can flow but you sacrifice bottom end power and torque becuase the engine has to rev higher to see power gains. then you have duration this is the amount of time the cam holds the valve open at a given lift. duration is measured in degrees but can be over 360 becuase cam lodes are ground as an elipse not a circle a stock cam is going to have duration usually in the low to mid .200's. overlap- this is the amount of time (measured in degrees) that the intake and exhuast vlave are open at the same time on the same cylinder putting the numbers together a tight cam with a high lift and long duration lets say 108 lobe centers .650 lift and 300 degrees of duration is going to make power to 7-8k rpm and increases the effeciency of the engine by using the fact that the exhuast and intake valve are open at the same time to pull fresh air charge into the engine by sucking some of it into the exhuast now the same exact cam with say .490 lift is going to make more torque becuase its peak rpm is much much lower. now take loose cam with the same lift and duration specs as the first tight cam and you get a profile more suited to a high rpm forced induction race motor you don't need the overlap becuase the forced induction is putting the fresh air charge into the motor. split pattern cams a split pattern cam uses different lift an duration specs on the intake and exhuast to achive a desired goal. you might run it tight but have say .590 intake lift and .600 exhust lift and say 300 degrees duration on the intake side and 312 on the exhuast side you would use a cam like this in a small valve N/a motor to help pull fresh air into the engine and hold the valve open forever to cram as much into the engine as you can past the smaller valve. a forced induction car may use a split duration/lift cam to favor exhuast breathing to help fully empty the cylinder between cycles. Custom grinds this where things can get really crazy. to get max power out of a given engine you can vary lobe seperation lift and duration between cylinders to make them all make the exact same amount of power. every cylinder is alittle different due to intake manifold design induction type and exhuast. Advice- when you build an engine first decide what your going to do with the car primarily and be realistic or you won't be happy. match all of your parts to the rpm range you plan to utilize the most. while cam choice is important here improper matching of parts may give dissapointing performance. if you just stuff a great big nasty race cam in your stock motor it'll sound cool but you'll see very little gain or possibly even power loss with out the supporting parts. engine design is important too a motor that has a redline at 6k is not going to gain a thing by using a cam that makes max power at 7000rpm. call the techline at your favorite cam grinder. talk to someone about your combination and ask what they recomend, remember to be truthfull with them about your true intent with the car or they won't be much help.

if your using urethane bushings they may need to be greased.... [ 18. January 2005, 02:17 AM: Message edited by: Gas,Grass,or Ass ]

http://www.people.fas.harvard.edu/~janicak/tmntnet2.mov

smile.gif $75 maybe less

thats awesome

i'll be there

I got a tank exchange at home depot in the burg for 12 something plus tax. you might try uhual or blue flame they will refill the tank its usually cheaper that way

I'll go wich spot?

no but I do and left my phone laying around where rick could find it. he called everyone but my grandparents

360 has factory forged internals why do you think my 3.9 took a 175 shot and lived same bottom end. btw I still have that chip and those corners if you want them. cheap I hate to see that stuff go to waste.

got to be quicker on the draw graemlins/slap.gif btw that is the funniest made up word I've heard in looooong time smile.gif

got to be quicker on the draw graemlins/slap.gif btw that is the funniest made up word I've heard in looooong time smile.gif

werd

you could get a 98-2000 quad cab dakota for about that price with a 360 in it too

LT1 f-body

its the internet don't have a stroke cockbagel smile.gif Street Snipaz for life yo...... [ 17. January 2005, 04:21 PM: Message edited by: Gas,Grass,or Ass ]