Bam

Agreed, Brian has offered to do whatever he can to make me feel better about my car and ensure I'm happy.

Alright guys, thanks for the info, like I said I've never read a dyno before so all I was looking at was the top of the curve, I don't know how to read the power under the curve and all that stuff. I have and will talk to Brian about adjusting the shift points, I don't recall what he set them at, I only know what the car reads RPM wise when driving, and as said before I guess some tachs are slow.. I am doing a full tune-up on the car tonight, so we'll see if that changes anything and go from there. I do have longtubes in the garage that I want to install at some point as well.

does the dynograph help anyone?

dude, i hope you're not saying that towards me. I've posted multiple times that my car makes peak power and like 53/5400 and it shifts at like 55/5600, that's obviously a little PAST peak power so that when it drops down its in the power band, right?

Posted it, hope its good enough. I am picking up parts tonight to do a full tune up. What are the stock plugs just incase the parts store doesn't know? Thanks

My Dyno... http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t124/BAM614_Cobra/DSCN2590.jpg This is after a few pulls so it was a tad hot, peak power is noted in my sig, but obviously this is probably more realistic on the street.

Had to take a picture, uploading now...

Already talked to him, again this post is NOT to complain or say anything about Brian, he's been a great guy through and through, and most likely saved my car from ending itself. I merely made this post to learn more/get an idea of what other people with LS1 cars were shifting at for the best time/performance.

I do just leave it in D, never messed with manually shifting through the gears. The car is shifting at 5500rpms according to my tach, but i guess it could be slow. I will double check it again tonight with a snap-on scanner. But my peak HP is at like 5300rpms so a couple hundred above to shift at is normal I think for the delay, right?

Dude, i'm fucking learning here. Brian thought the lid was making it run super lean since I had just installed it a few days before. I understand doing a tune up, and have been doing it all slowly. Flushed all the fluids and did royal purple in engine/rear, did coolant flush, intake filter, etc. tr5's? i think anthony said he's running autolites? should i gap them to factory specs or what?

i know, brian tuned it to a 12.5 flat, im not sure what could have caused it to be so lean.

dude, i'm reading them, i just didn't knw they were called a eddy-current dyno

lol, you're telling me. I saw the first pull and about shit myself. I guess 85k miles really must take a toll on a car, hopefully with a basic tune-up it'll be a whole other animal.

My car stock put down 264whp/288wtq and had an AFR of 15.8, so I'm sure I'm leagues better than I was then, and I wonder if it would've even broke into the 14's running like that. My car doesn't break up/anything anywhere in the powerband. I guess I will just do plugs/wires/fuel filter maybe this weekend and see if that changes anything. Thanks for the help guys, I'm just trying to figure this stuff out.

Dude, I haven't done ANY mods, I've got a FUCKING LID, the one YOU told me to buy on craigslist. I'm not trying to throw more mods at it just because, the whole point of this thread is for me to LEARN from others about WHY my car may not be performing in tip top shape. Aka needing a tune up etc, so thank you for posting the helpful things. Where exactly did I call you out, anywhere? If anything I thanked you many times for the insight and direction in modding, wtf? What is an eddy-current dyno? Sorry, I don't know my stuff yet. Also, I am aware of the AWESOME times your car ran stock, so I just want to ask, was it tuned at all or stock tune as well? I hope my car can at least pull those times tuned w/ the lid.

Um, I think a Snap-on? I dunno, derek did it/watched it while I drove, he said it didn't show anything.

Thanks Rob for offering that, and I understand that it SHOULD be making power past 6k, I just don't understand how a tune/tuner can make it NOT make power above 6k? I feel like I'm asking the same question over and over, so sorry if this is repeated, but if I stick my car on a dyno, ANY DYNO, and do repeated pulls to 6500, and the car only makes power to 5500, what can a tuner do to change that?

Well I can't really do that as I don't have the software to change the shift points. Unless you mean have Brian change them, then go to the track after every time. Definitely easier with a manual car to play around with that. Good idea though.

Yeah, wagner's car seems pretty inline with times for its mods, especially given its a 2.73 rear. It'd make more sense for him to go to 3.73's than it does for me, since I've got 3.23's.

Also, I had the car scanned TODAY, NO KNOCK or misfires, so I guess I can rule that out?

How about I can't do anything about it now, so drop it? You've already PMed me your unhappiness fairly rudely, I'm not sure what Randy could have done that Brian didn't? Can Randy magically make the car have a different power curve, or pull at a higher RPM? If so then maybe I'll go see him, but as of now I'm happy with how the car runs/drives, but as anyone who mods a car I'd like to see it go faster. Unfortunately, everyone on LS1tech seems to think the car is perfectly inline for a lid only auto car, and I obviously have nothing to personally compare it to. I chose to trust a friend of mine's advice over yours, so what? Not only that but randy didn't exactly give me a good vibe over the phone, and I feel Brian went out of his way to take care of me on the spot. I guess what I don't understand is how ANY of this has anything to do with the tuner in this situation???? If my car is DROPPING power after 5400rpms, WHY should I shift higher? And how can a tuner fix that?

I'm not trying to compare dyno sheets, just asking for exactly what you posted, for people to verify that them holding higher revs is worthwhile for them. Wonder what the cam did to change the powerband on that car you posted compared to a stock profile cam. Thanks for posting it.

I would think that if my car shifts at 5500 and it makes peak tq around 4000, it would be dropping back down into that peak tq range, or very close. I haven't watch this car closely enough and its auto, but I do know that on previous manual cars if I shifted up a gear it would usually drop the RPM's down about 1000-1200rpms on average.

Thanks for the responses, have any/all of you guys had your car on a dyno to verify it's still making power that high? Again, just curious.

Got a pair of these tires, still decent tread left, 6-7/32nds I'd say, so plenty for awhile. $60 for the pair.