Mowgli1647545497

If you have any negotiating skills at all Ricart isn't bad. But if you're dumb and/or don't pay attention - sure they'll bilk you. And so will every other dealer on planet earth.

 

I bought a 94 Mustang GT from them new in 93, granted I didn't finance with them, I just paid for it, but they beat every other dealer in town on the same car (Graham, Krieger, etc).

 

Now as for going to them for service or financing... thats a different story and I can't speak to that. (but I wouldn't go)

I run my computer case fan REAL HARD! tongue.gif

Man, nobody beats down the newbs anymore.

 

 

So much entertainment potential wasted. Wah.

 

You people are just not entertaining me: I miss watching the Romper Room hiss fits. Please turn up the hairpulling.

 

I'm not going to pay my next month's dues, so there.

Hey wow someone older than me (barely)

 

Welcome!

Even with no sound on thats funny

Originally posted by 10xworse:

The problem I have is that though people drive extremely slowly in bad weather, which is usually a good thing, they don't know why they are doing it. Even if they are driving 15 mph, they still don't use their brakes until the last minute at a stoplight, they follow other cars within 2 carlengths, and that is what causes accidents.

+1

 

Originally posted by Shitaro:

remember, its' when you get cocky and think you can drive better than you can in the snow / rain that you wreck or end up off the side of the road..

+1

 

Its also the tires you have mounted. I know nobody on here could go "fast" on my F1 Supercars EMTs in the snow.

 

So don't think its you. Its your tires + luck that you haven't hit ice.

 

My take is this: When it snows I'm going to go slow.

 

*/rant to SUVs on*

I'm gonna go slow. If you don't like it, fuck off. And don't tailgate me. Tailgate me, and I will at the next light get out of my car and drag you out of your car and beat your head in. And I will win.

 

I don't tailgate SUVs the other 99% of the year when its dry and they're in my way. Don't ride my ass when I'm going slow the other 1% of the time. 3 or 4 days of the year you can just sit back and wait on my shit like I wait on yours the rest of the time.

*/rant off*

 

Anyone disagrees can kiss my ass.

 

The end.

 

[ 02. March 2005, 04:57 PM: Message edited by: Mowgli ]

desparado's got the call I think.

 

From another forum:

 

Everyone please say this with me, "Oil has MEASURABLE PROPERTIES".

 

I had let the DIC oil life monitor get to 0% and then a little longer (oopsie!) with the warnings popping up everytime I started her up (I haven't confimed this exactly, but *I think* it was 10-12k since my last oil change). File this experience under the stuff happens. Anyway I did the (oil/filter) change and sent in my usual sample (of the used oil) for analysis. All measured spectrochemical and physical measurements were within the accpetable range (after the DIC read 0%), nothing elevated or abnormal. This means (in my case) no need to change (the oil/filter) for the sake of changing (@ 50% life , 5k or X months), cheap insurance or not, oil has measuable properties and if they are within range, then no need to change, esp synth.

 

I was in the grass. Did you see me? I waved.

So anyone with a new car probably knows the manufacturers, ESPECIALLY the ones who pick up oil change maintenance costs, recommend really long oil change intervals: 5000, 7500, 10,000... I've even heard 15,000 (Mercedes SUV).

 

Curious as to folks' opinions on why this is. My take is manufacturers not wanting to pick up the dime on costs. Also a bit of a bragging factor - longer interval equals perceived better engineering in the car itself. Knowing that the oil that goes into a Kia is the same oil that goes into a BMW, I personally don't buy into that perception: I chalk up the ability to get longer intervals to advancements in oil tech far more than engine tech.

 

But I've had conversations with non-car guys who are convinced that because their bimmer's oil service reminder indicator doesn't come on til 15,000 miles it means their engine is engineered better. Ah well...

 

Personally I change the oil in my cars at 3,000 miles religiously. Synthetic or no. Scheduled maintenance or no.

 

Thoughts?

The wiring is not what bothers me either, its taking care of the interior panels during the install. May be psycho-somatic, but they always seem to squeak or rattle after they're taken off once...

 

Kind of a "break the seal" syndrome.

I've been reading thru the caddy forums post from folks who've installed this in in a permanent fashion. Doesn't look too hard. May just do it myself.

EDIT: This can also be an individual, I don't need a brick and mortar shop, though I'd prefer an establishment.

 

I just don't want to waste my time with amateurs or incompetence. I'll pay for quality work that doesn't take forever. Time is money smile.gif

Looking to pick up a Valentine1. But I don't want that sloppy cord hanging down, and actually I'd prefer to use the concealed display add-on.

 

Does anyone know a good place in town that can install this without

 

a) Horking up my car's wiring

b) Horking up the interior panels

c) Taking all day to install it

 

I'm looking for a place that guarentees their work, and takes some pride in professional installation and work. I also will need to be present when they do it.

 

Thanks in advance

No you don't - you like it.

Originally posted by Hoblick:

server is still down and being gay

Originally posted by Hoblick:

server is still down and being gay

BTW - is it me or were there alot of SCOOTERS on that track? wtf?

 

Also - did you see me standing by the side? No?

 

Here's a hint where to look for me: I was standing in the grass.

The Expert analysis in this thread is entertaining me.

 

Please continue.

 

graemlins/popcorn.gif

Originally posted by Theoretic:

Well you guys have found a way to take the whole point away from the game.

No 99 Eclipse

No 03 Cobra

No 04 CTS-V

 

There *is* no point to this game. graemlins/finger.gif

 

No wait, I take that back. There is a point to this game:

 

Teenager Wreck Prep.

Bring the clown suit - they'll make you their leader.

Yeah, the japa races are disgustingly easy. As for using B-spec, the AI drivers are way more conservative so for it to work you need to mod up the car ot the point where you won't have a problem getting ahead of the competition. Then the AI can take it to a win.

 

Watch out on the 12 lap races: depending on the tire you mount they will try to pit on lap 12 (!!!) if you let them to their own devices.

I was told that GM (Z06), Ford (Cobra) and Chrysler(Viper) do not offer automatics for reasons other than what may look obvious...

Warrantee work !!! They know that most people who purchase 400+ horse power cars, tend to get 'into them' from time to time. The auto trans cannot take the abuse the manual trans can.

 

So rather then loosing their collective arse on replacing transmissions for the first 36 thousand miles (like our rear ends), they just offer the manual trans.

So now I've learned that manual transmissions hold up to abuse better than autos.

 

Also, GM, Ford, and Chrysler hate to loose their arses. Me too.

whole first season was available as bittorrents earlier. don't know where though, I didn't download them.. watching them as they come.

Originally posted by AustinL911:

Has anyone even come close to beating the all american championship? I've got a 740hp Z06, with all mods except the brake bias controller, stage 3 clutch, and stage 3 weight reduction...and the lead race car is still putting a minute on me after 5 laps. I'm gonna come back to this race later. But I'm curious if anyones beat it yet?

Yeah I beat it. Well not only did I beat it, but I beat it while sitting back and eating chicken and noodles. B-spec director's mode, driver set on Push+Overtake. Dinner. Win.

 

Car was the LM Z28

 

Games that play themselves are grrrreat.

Cadillacs + GTA = t e h win