iwishiwascool

my bad. I think it was that, not to mention the holier than thou following post that got the negative ball rolling. I was being serious when I said to leave it to someone else if he had no experience. Oh well. My E-Feelings Arent E-Hurt by the E-Silverback [ 31. December 2003, 01:18 PM: Message edited by: iwishiwascool ]

+1 The fact that you are so willing to present proof of your experience speaks novels as to your level of insecurity about the issue. The fact that you list everything your dad put on your car and even some stuff that came stock thus creating the longest and most worthless sig of all tells the tale of you personal insecurity. Dont ask questions that you are supposedly an expert on and criticise those who even bother to reply. My ballot is cast for tool of the month. PS. Sorry for violating rules 1, 7, 8. It was worth a strike.

[grabs ahold of something sturdy]

You should pull the motor to do this, but you dont have to. I pulled my pistons in 2.5 hours today w/o yanking it. You should have the head off. The crank should be completely removed so that you can micropolish it. -If you spun a bearing and you replace it with the same crank we will laugh. -You need some plastigauge to make sure the spec is correct. If you dont use that, you will cry. -You basicly need plenty of time to correct the mistakes you will inevitably make. -You should pay someone else to do it if the most youve installed is an air filter.

um... thats not right. Running rich will cause lower EGTs. A leaner condtion (an oxygen rich combustion is much hotter than a fuel rich one), or the ECU pulling timing will create higher EGTs.

not at all a direct swap. Sorry to say, the 420 is your most cost effective solution.

it is not a ball bearing turbo, i wouldnt recommend using it w/o the coolant lines but it would probably hold out for a while.

I understand that, It was directed at the guy who suggested a dry shot.

With a turbo car, especially a 4 cyl, i would choose a wet kit 9 out of 10 times. The nitrous backfire risk is always going to be there, but how common is it really. Its not that challenging to take precautions against it. In a turbo system you are already dealing with elevated cylinder pressures, by taking away the even distribution assurance of a direct port kit, you are risking running an uneven load in each cylinder. Each cylinder is however still each getting x amt of fuel. x amt of fuel might not be enough if 20% more nitrous goes into the first available cylinder. Additionally, by relying on your injectors to react so quickly to both the onset of boost AND the introduction of nitrous you face the risk of over running them without being able to compensate in time to avoid replacing your block. It comes down to nitrous backfire = replace intake mani. Injector overload/uneven distribution = replace block I choose the first.

my shizza is at fowlers right now. No complaints yet.

check the spline count on clubdsm.com for the various years. What about the electrical business, are you planning on doing a full wiring harness swap too?

evoIII 16g = $?

You think a 16g is going to grip better than a 20g?? Faster spool = less grip. Also you need a clutch if youre manual... that kid aluded to a 13g which would mean auto, but I assume he was just guessing. If youre going to go 16, a supra smic will be plenty, but like I said... he wont be happy with a 16g. There is a columbusdsmr with the exact set up + 16g and 550s, he runs mid 13s. If thats all he's looking for than go for it. You also need an EGT gauge, and a data logger. DSMs are all about tuning. AND, you wont get far with out some porting of your stock gear... exhaust mani 02 housing dot dot dot. Besides that, a fuel pump and SAFC are manditory to play this game. DSMLink can consolidate the datalogger and SAFC into a cost effective engine management unit if youve got the scrill. Plan on spending at LEAST 2x what you do in mods to repair what you break and to replace the crankwalked block with a 1g. The end.

ive got my stock one lying here, I was about to throw it away yesterday but held on to it in case some one needed it. you can have it for 0 dolla.

I go thru glad bags slower than engines on this thing Disposable speed machine: check.

www.vfaq.com in case you were wondering.

I assume you checked your fuses... Im just a half wit import kid, but a blown MPI fuse did the same to me.

research cylinder pressure and do the calculations yourself. Theres a lot more that goes into it than what you are accounting for.

a 55 shot isnt going to make things blurry like f&f you should know. In fact, you may be disappointed with the results. With a turbo aplication, I would never trust a dry shot. If you happen to max out the ability of the injectors when the spray kicks on, your going to be sorry... But he isnt turbo anyway.

1. none if you do it right. aka wet shot. 2. platinum is bad for turbo and sprayed cars. Standard plugs 1 to 2 steps colder is what you want. You dont want a "button" keep in on a WOT switch.

Just two bolts actually. If youre awd you will probably have to take the transfer case out. Unless you have tiny hands an minature tools.

there was a thread on this a while back. GS usually means non turbo unless you are talking about a laser. 92s dont crank walk. Unless he is going to modify it and or drive it hard, it is just as reliable as the next 11 year old car with xxx,xxx miles.

no no no, Its the johnson rod. You gotta get that out of the way first.

wrong thread [ 01. July 2003, 10:02 AM: Message edited by: iwishiwascool ]

man I should get a strike for that.