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Squirrels get under my truck hood this time of year if left in the driveway. I move it into my garage. That's what is likely getting in yours.

For my tractor and zero turn in the barn, I put moth balls on them and it seems to deter mice.

Single adjustable pin (I believe 0.10)

Right handed

4x lens kit ($102 on Amazon)

Tape kit (1 used)

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Sounds like it needs an automated bleed procedure to me. Sounds like this old truck has a few problems.

I agree on the auto bleed. Just have to figure out how to clear the ABS code first. It's got some problems for sure.

Does it actually have air in the system or is the front hub so loose, that its rocking back and forth and eating up your pedal? 99% of these trucks that I did brake lines on did not require ABS bleeding. But if you let the master cylinder run dry, it will need bled separate, and hopefully seals aren't torn

After replacing the lines and bleeding at the calipers there were no brakes at all. I bleed the 3 exit lines at the ABS unit and then at calipers again and now have 1/2 pedal (brakes don't engage until pedal is 1/2 way down).

I'll check the hub and sensor again when it warms up outside.

how are you bleeding the system? Are you using a vacuum pump or having someone press the pedal while you bleed? Also have you bench bled the master cyl? I had to bench bleed my master, then H had someone push on the pedal as I bled the system then went back with the pump using an insane amount of fluid in the process... afterwards I did the ABS bleed then went through the vacuum process again and then ABS bleed again. it was a seriously huge pain but now my brakes are perfect.

I have done both. the Master cylinder didn't go dry as far as I could tell.

Was it originally only 1 line from front to back?

. Maybe it's only a 3 channel system.

 

Did you get lines for your truck or make them?

. If you made them, did you use the same routing or something different?

. You really want to make sure you don't have lines that go above the master cylinder, it's very difficult/impossible to bleed the air out of those.

 

 

 

It's much more complicated than this, but to simply I'll group fault codes into 2 types of codes you'll run into; what I'll call permanent and intermittent.

 

For example for a wheel speed sensor Intermittent problem, there might be a slight problem with the sensor where it will 'read' half of actual speed; 10mph even when you are going 20mph. You will have to drive for the car to detect this problem since at 0mph it will still read 0mph. These you may rest at IG on, or you can reset them. Then since the problem isn't there, you are OK until you drive again and the problem can be detected.

 

A permeant problem is something like an open/short. These can usually be detected even if you aren't driving (or for engine sensors engine running). For these, even if you rest them, the failure checks will immediately detect it right after and trip the fault (code) again. It seems like this is the type of fault you have if you can try to reset it, but it just 'comes back' right away. Unless the OEM/ABS maker has some way to bypass faults (like some factory/service mode) by using a tool like you have, there is no way in normal operation to get around this without fixing the problem; which could be the sensor, some part of the harness; connector (wheel well, sometimes another junction to main harness, into ABS unit) or even in the ABS unit itself.

The rear line goes to a T-block that then goes to each rear wheel.

I made the new lines and followed the general route except for the right front. No lines go above the master cylinder.

It seems to me that even if the sensor had an issue, the code should be able to be cleared long enough to do the auto bleed using the scan tool.

Using a vac pump, I got it to have about 1/2 pedal. Maybe I just need to bleed more using this method or the gravity bleed.

Thanks

2005 Silverado 4.3L 2WD (work truck)

Rusted out brake line blew. Replaced 5 lines (2x from master cyl to ABS, 2x from ABS to front wheels, 1x from ABS to rear).

Did a bleed at each corner with a vac pump. Not seeing any air but there is still air in the lines. I have been told that you need to have the ABS engage to get the air out of that.

Picked up an Autel scanner that has an "Auto bleed" function.

The problem I'm having with it is that there is an ABS code of Code C0040 (front right wheel sensor). I attempted to clear the code so I can bleed the brakes but it has not been successful.

Is there any other way to bleed the brakes to get all of the air out or reset the ABS to remove the code?

TIA

When you say out in the woods what was the exact reason for cancellation

The progressive contracted company listed about a dozen reasons such as "tree stumps" (should have left the dead trees standing so they could fall), "over grown vegetation" (I don't cut sections in the woods and fields), "trees branches over hanging house" (I cut the twigs off a Japanese maple to resolve) , "rust on barn and shed" (barn built in 1967 and a grain silo); etc.

They also said my porch needed a railing even though it was only 30" off the ground.

Most of the issues in my mind were easily fixable. i.e I put railings up in a week even though they are not required by law.

I had liberty mutual for my house and progressive for my cars. About a year ago they raised the rate significantly like 3 or 4 hundred. For some reason allstate sent me a letter they could insure it for less than I was paying at liberty but I had to switch my cars to them. The car insurance was about the same as progressive but the motorcycle was much cheaper. No claims but Ive been happy with it other than you cant do much online you have to call a local agent.

I've used Oleda Hirsch at All-Ohio Insurance for years on my primary residence, and umbrella policies for rental properties. Had a fire in 2013 and Cincinnati Insurance didn't bat an eye at the costs associated with a 7-month rebuild.

 

Oleda's into horses so if they can't do a rural policy, I don't know who can.

https://insurance-agent.safeco.com/find-an-insurance-agency/app/agent/2205854

 

FYI, she's quoted me on my 16+ year Progressive auto policy numerous times, and can't beat my rate. I appreciate that she tries.

Thanks, I'm not sure anyone is going to beat progressive Auto rates for me. I looked at 10+ companies before I switched and progressive was less than half of the next lowest quote.

Although, it still went up after the first 6 months even with an A rating using their snapshot device.

Bought a new car in 2018. My current Home and Auto policy (liberty mutual) was going to go way up so I switched insurance to Progressive and saved about $1500 on the car insurance and a few hundred on the home policy.

Progressive subbed out the home policy to a 3rd party who apparently didn't realize I live in the woods so they cancelled the policy. Progressive didn't even try to find a new home policy.

Found an agent who has been slow to respond, but did find another company who declined to renew because my wood burner did not have a UL sticker.

There are probably millions of homes in Ohio that have wood burners that don't have any issues getting home insurance.

I searched the forum, but the last thread was over a year old.

I'm in need of a new insurance company or agent who can deal with 1960's farm house in the woods.

What's the current recommended list?

Backgroud: 2006 Cobalt 2.2L

Back in December 2018 - Previous issue: Leaking/bent valves - this car got a new head, timing chain, water pump, etc.

Car doesn't get driven very much since then but starting around March I was told it wasn't running right. Was told that after driving it for awhile, it would start running fine. No misfire, engine running smooth.

As of today:

Codes: P0301 (misfire cylinder 1); P0171 (Bank 1 system too lean)

Drove car to my house and pulled plugs. Cyl 1 plug was wet.

Compression test: Cyl 1 = 30psi; Cyl 2-4 190-200 psi

Leak down test (if I did it correctly); Pressurize cylinder and can hear air leading from dip stick tube and valve cover hose that goes to air filter tube).

Harbor Freight leak down tester says Cyl 1 = 100% loss; Cyl 2-4 are in the red for loss - 80% I think). This indicates issue is with the rings.

Looking for ideas as it doesn't make sense to me that this issue resolves itself if driven for a distance.

What is the story with Google fi? I read an ad the other day, who's network are they using?

 

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk

Coverage is pretty good but there are some places I personally go that I don't have good cellular signal.

My current terms are $20 for unlimited talk/text and $10 per gig data. This is capped at 6Gb on the fees but not sure if they throttle at that level as I never hit it.

Also, the data fees are refundable. If you use 0.5 GB you will get $5 credit and if you use 1.75 you will pay $17.50.

Use referral code 1VT0VJ and we both get $20.

Terms and conditions apply. https://support.google.com/fi/answer/7220173?hl=en

I am in need of an ATT smartphone for a friend.

They have ATT service and was given an unlocked Verizon Samsung S7.

It's not wanting to connect to ATT 4G, send group messages, send/receive pictures, etc. and ATT has no idea how to get it to work correctly.

Looking for something similar to the S7 but for ATT's network. Send me a PM if you have something for sale.

Thanks

No it’ll never line up, so long as everything is in time when first all lined up it’ll be fine. As a good tip, I’ve had a few of these jump time when first started if you don’t get the tensioner to release before it’s started, really easy to do with a long screwdriver or prybar to push against that guide in the back and make it pop out. Otherwise you dick around rotating the engine around for no good reason.

Thanks I did see that in a video. It's a new tensioner and the chain is tight.

Thanks for everyone's insight.

The crank gear is larger than the cam gear so as long as you had it at TDC first, then make sure they are all properly aligned in time you are good. They will not all align again after you rotate it over

The crank was TDC for cylinder #1.

I was expecting it to line up every at least every few rotations.

Replaced the head, timing chain, water pump, etc.

When installing the timing chain, there are 3 colored links that line up with each cam sprocket and the crank sprocket.

I lined up the marks with the chain and then rotated the engine. There is no binding, but the colored links have never matched on the cam and crank sprockets after rotating.

After watching several videos and seeing some comments, I'm just not sure if this is correct or not.

I replaced the balance shaft chain and lined up the marks but it's now the same as the timing chain. The marks haven't lined up since rotating the motor.

So the question is, if you lined up the marks correctly, will they always line up after you rotate this motor?