Red1990LX

Will do, thanks again Rob

New PCM was shipped out today and should be here by friday depending on how our lovely postal system works after the holiday! Got it for $112 shipped and already flashed hopefully just pop it in and go.... I hope!!!

no voltage at the pins, i even ripped the bull crap the mechanic did off of the connector and tested the bare wires... nothing, and i have 6 M ohms on the PWR GND.

I'll be right back... Sorry for the confusion on my part....

I should have specified that this was a two pin (Variable reluctance) CMP sensor... I think those tests might be for a three pin i don't know if that would make a difference or not

Ok, I did the tests on the truck and am a little confused but here are the results... DR2 you have to drive it for more than 30 miles before it comes on, found that out the other day. DR3 was a NO DR4 (I went ahead and did this anyways eventhough I had a no on DR3) This is where I am confused because this one was a yes on the less than 5.0 ohms (No ground fualt correct?) Where do I go from here? Is the sensor bad or is it the PCM

That was kind of my thought at first.... But I would hope the mechanic would have checked the timing.... I would have to look it up on how to check it as I have never put a timing light on a ranger before...

Well, the mechanic had it all day today with no avail. He tore the pig-tails he soldered on off to check them and then insulated it for harmonics (distortion) and taped it back. I asked what he had used to test with and asked about these test and he mentioned something about the 5.0 ohms but nothing else. I am going right now to get the truck to perform these test on my own and ill let you know what i come up with. I was going to get another sensor just for the heck of it to see if that was the problem but apparently its not a common enough part to normally stock and it would take two days to get it. SOL there, but if it is the sensor again, i'll just go to Ford or order it on-line and next day it or something. Luckily he was man enough to admit he was baffled and he refunded the $255 he had charged for the labor/repair of the sensor not all of it as I had a leaky power-steering line (o-rings). I'll keep you posted on what i find.

Whats is the DR5 step? Thanks for your help.... You really know your Fords, this is the second time you helped me, I appreciate it!!! Yes, I do have a DVOM as I work for Beacon Electric here in Dayton and Cincy... Thanks again and I'll let you know what i find!!!

I am assuming that there is still a bad wire that is shorting out and the vibrations from the compressor kicking on is keeping the wire from touching ground but doesn't explain why the CEL stays on and doesn't go off with the compressor. Would that blow a fuse somewhere or something?

Sorry, here is the code: P0340

Here is the exact code that was pulled, there were no other codes at all... "Cam Position Sensor A Bank 1 CKT Malfunction"

Well, I am stumped and at the mercy of this mechanic. I have never taken a car of mine to have something like this fixed and it ticks me off that he can't even fix it. The first bill was $310 and I had the hard part done, the sensor itself becasue of its location. Course he did put two O-rings on my powersteering line but that was only a half hour labor. I don't know what to do. I cant find anything on the 2.3L's cam sensor. It's weird how with the heat on the truck runs fine (still has the CEL on though) but with it off, it acts up...

Just found this on the web ever heard of it? Replacing the cam sensor alone won't fix the repair. You need to replace BOTH the cam sensor and the synchronizer. The root cause of this failure is sludge buildup inside the body of the synchronizer, restricting its free movement. The person that told you this part requires the use of a "tool" is also correct. The reason for this, is because the synchronizer has to be installed in EXACTLY the same position as the original part, the way a distributor would on older engines. The cost of both of these parts are as follows: $72.81 US for the synchronizer (part number DA-2089) $18.72 US for the cam sensor (part number 1F1Z-6B288-BA) This information was obtained from fordparts.com. Hope this helps.

Thats the exact one with some other B.S. with it. "Circuit malfuntion bank 1" or something like that. I have it written down in the truck

My bad about the section... It's a 1996 2.3L Ranger with a 5spd.

To make a long story short here, my Ranger's cam positioning sensor went bad. Replaced it reset computer and CEL came on again. WTF didn't feel like messing with it anymore and took it to a shop. They had it for 3 full days and they found some bad wires and fixed it. So they thought. Drove to Springfield for work and the CEL came on. Same problem the sensor. However, if I am running the heat, the hesitation/stalling goes completely away. The second I turn the heat of in the truck it hesitates and falls flat on its face and does it repeatidly until I turn the heat on. Anyone experience or have experience with this? I am lost and apparently the mechanic that I paid already hasnt a clue either as he called three times the first day he had it asking where this sensor was!!! Any help would be awesome as the Holidays are coming and I am trying to go see family without renting a car and the Stang ain't gonne be cought dead in snow!

Didn't it fry your O2 sensors at the same time... I seem to remember reading about that...

GOOD NEWS!!!! After installing the new module, they symptons seem to fall better in place... Turns out the the stator in the distributor was bad. I do not know if the module helped it out or not or if the distributor just took the final leap.... I replaced the distributor (with some help from my neighbor and my g-friends father as the previous owner intalled it wrong) fired it up and adjusted it a little bit to get it somewhere close to where it was and it ran well. Still has some timing issues as it was a rough idea. It will be going to the tuner to get things updated here soon anyways. Until then I'll baby it. Fuel pressure is at 40lbs at idle and vac is back to 14-16. I may do my intake swap and the fox TB swap before I take it in, but we shall see. I really need to invest in a timing light as I currently do not own one. On a side note, things started out wrong with me blaming it on the gas and I would like to appologize to those who were offended. I would also like to thank everyone for their thoughts and input on the car. Thanks for the help guys!!!

Coolant is where it should be, no slurry or anything like that is the engine oil, It started about 3 miles down the road after I filled up, it will run for about 10-15 minutes before messing up (just about the time the fan will kick on) and fuel pressure when messing up is at 38lbs. I need to check the Distributor Ignition Module as I haven't checked that yet. However, my fuel pressure after I turn the car off drops rather quickly to like 10lbs then after five minutes it is at 0lbs. I do not know if that has anything to do with it or not, but I have read that the module can go bad and cause these problems. The fuel pressure goes had in hand with the vac which is related to the ignition. Bad ignition=lack of power which equals lack of vac which can cause these problems with the fuel pressure. I hope that is the problem and hopefully that made some sense....

no check engine light until the car dies but hat happens normally even if you stall... I tried to pull codes on it but it said there were no stored codes... On a side note, I did pull the vac line off the FPR and it was dry as a bone no odors of gas either.

Well, I changed the fuel filter today and let her run for a bit. Same problem came back after about ten minutes of idle. It's almost like the fuel pump it heating up after a short while and the in-line pump is trying to feed enough gas into the car but it too maxes out therefore creating the choppy idle and lack of power. Is there a way to check to see if the pump is going out or is on its way out. The car runs perfect when cold but again after ten minutes it shows the same symptoms. Just a thought but seem logical... I have a 255LPH in tank with a vortech boost-a-pump in line...

I used the 135 degree boots. I put the sleeves on them and they held up fine. However when I took it out on a short drive after the new plugs and wires, it acted up yet again. I have power throughout my ignition system from the coil to the distributer then to the plug themselves. I went ahead and replaced the cap and rotor today to see if that would help, it didn't. I messed with the timing a little to see if retarding it would help the idle still nothing. My problem now is that I can hold the throttle all the way down and it acts like it has a bad delay and it will rev up really choppy and it will almost act like it is struggling to get fuel and it will back-fire terribly (hence why I messed with the timing). I do not understand what is going on with it as it is almost like it is starving for fuel but my pressure guage reads 42-43psi with it running really crappy. Oil pressure is at 50-60 psi and my vac guage reads 0 with it at its crappy idle. I can't hook a tester up to it as it has no stored codes, and I cannot data-log it with it being able to idle to complete the test. What I thought was strange it right after you shut the car off, the fuel pressure guage drops back to 0 rather quickly. I always thought that the pressure drops a little at a time. Any ideas on what the deal is. Here is what has been replaced or checked throughout these couple of days: Smog was deleted (just the air pump and associated hardware; holes were capped in the heads as well as the two vac lines) New plugs and wires New cap and rotor Checked the MAF seemed fine (ran the car without it still nothing) Sprayed brake cleaner near vaccum lines to check for leaks Tourqed the intake manifold (upper) to specs. Added octane booster (had to try it) Reset computer didn't check the chip though... Tomorrow I am going to pull the fuel filter and replace that and if that doesn;t help, drain fuel and fill with 93 from shell after that, she will be towed to a shop to have them do their thing with it if all else fails. Does anyone know of a good shop with decent pricing that will work on a supercharged car in Dayton? I just need this going again as I am going to sell it to buy a house and I don't want someone else to have to fix this as I haven't the slightest idea as to what the problem is... If you are still reading, thanks for looking and any help would be great... Thanks

When the tow truck driver dropped the car off yesterday, it was pitch dark out-side. After giving the car a once over, I noticed that these crappy headers I have on the car now actually touch the boot from the spark plug wire. Two of the eight wires were so bad that there was a crack going up the boot. My assumption of the problem was that the exposed plugs were arching on the headers causing the car to miss-fire. I pulled the plug and checked them as well to see if they looked like they were bad (White deposits) and they were just fine. I replaced them anyways though. Buttoned everything back up and the car started just fine. I am having the same issue though with the boots as the two imediatly started to BURN.... I am going to try and get those 1200 degree boot covers to see if it helps any before junking the headers. Thanks for all the input, never did I think it was the wires, just started from the easiest things first and got lucky. It still hasn't been driven though, as I don't want to burn the new wires I just bought...

Thanks for that.......